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3. Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

Author

Bertin, Xavier, de Bakker, Anouk, van Dongeren, Ap, Coco, Giovanni, André, Gael, Ardhuin, Fabrice, Bonneton, Philippe, Bouchette, Frédéric, Castelle, Bruno, Crawford, Wayne C., Davidson, Mark, Deen, Martha, Dodet, Guillaume, Guérin, Thomas, Inch, Kris, Leckler, Fabien, McCall, Robert, Muller, Héloïse, Olabarrieta, Maitane, Roelvink, Dano, Ruessink, Gerben, Sous, Damien, Stutzmann, Éléonore, and Tissier, Marion

Published
2018
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4. Evolution of the early Antarctic ice ages

Author

Liebrand, Diederik, de Bakker, Anouk T. M., Beddow, Helen M., Wilson, Paul A., Bohaty, Steven M., Ruessink, Gerben, Pälike, Heiko, Batenburg, Sietske J., Hilgen, Frederik J., Hodell, David A., Huck, Claire E., Kroon, Dick, Raffi, Isabella, Saes, Mischa J. M., van Dijk, Arnold E., and Lourens, Lucas J.

Published
2017

7. Disparate energy sources for slow and fast Dansgaard–Oeschger cycles.

Author

Liebrand, Diederik, de Bakker, Anouk T. M., Johnstone, Heather J. H., and Miller, Charlotte S.

Subjects
ICE cores, GREENLAND ice, OXYGEN isotopes, ENERGY transfer, ATMOSPHERIC temperature
Abstract

During the Late Pleistocene, Dansgaard–Oeschger (DO) cycles triggered warming events that were as abrupt as the present-day human-induced warming. However, in the absence of a periodic forcing operating on millennial timescales, the main energy sources of DO cycles remain debated. Here, we identify the energy sources of DO cycles by applying a bispectral analysis to the North Greenland Ice Core Project (NGRIP) oxygen isotope (δ18 O ice) record; a 123 kyr long proxy record of air temperatures (Tair) over Greenland. For both modes of DO cyclicity – slow and fast – we detect disparate energy sources. Slow DO cycles, marked by multi-millennial periodicities in the 12.5 to 2.5 kyr bandwidth, receive energy from astronomical periodicities. Fast DO cycles, characterized by millennial periodicities in the 1.5 ± 0.5 kyr range, receive energy from centennial periodicities. We propose cryospheric and oceanic mechanisms that facilitate the transfer of energy from known sources to slow and fast DO cycles, respectively. Our findings stress the importance of understanding energy-transfer mechanisms across a broad range of timescales to explain the origins of climate cycles without primary periodic energy sources. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Published
2023
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14. Evolution of the early Antarctic ice ages

Author

Coastal dynamics, Fluvial systems and Global change, Proceskunde, Liebrand, Diederik, de Bakker, Anouk T M, Beddow, Helen M, Wilson, Paul A, Bohaty, Steven M, Ruessink, Gerben, Pälike, Heiko, Batenburg, Sietske J, Hilgen, Frederik J, Hodell, David A, Huck, Claire E, Kroon, Dick, Raffi, Isabella, Saes, Mischa J M, van Dijk, Arnold E, Lourens, Lucas J, Coastal dynamics, Fluvial systems and Global change, Proceskunde, Liebrand, Diederik, de Bakker, Anouk T M, Beddow, Helen M, Wilson, Paul A, Bohaty, Steven M, Ruessink, Gerben, Pälike, Heiko, Batenburg, Sietske J, Hilgen, Frederik J, Hodell, David A, Huck, Claire E, Kroon, Dick, Raffi, Isabella, Saes, Mischa J M, van Dijk, Arnold E, and Lourens, Lucas J

Published
2017

15. GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a shallow sloping beach

Author

Michallet , Hervé, Ruessink , Gerben, Vieira Lima Matias da Rocha , Mariana, De Bakker , Anouk, Van Der A , Dominic, Ruju , Andrea, Silva , Paulo A., Sénéchal , Nadia, Marieu , Vincent, Tissier , Marion, Almar , Rafael, Abreu , Tiago, Birrien , Florent, Vignal , Laure, Barthélemy , Eric, Mouazé , D., Cienfuegos , Rodrigo, Wellens , Peter, Laboratoire des écoulements géophysiques et industriels ( LEGI ), Université de Grenoble-Alpes-Institut polytechnique de Grenoble - Grenoble Institute of Technology ( Grenoble INP ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research [Utrecht] ( IMAU ), Utrecht University [Utrecht], Departamento de Fisica [Aveiro], Universidade de Aveiro, Department of Physical Geography, Utrecht University [Utrecht]-Faculty of Geosciences, School of Engineering, University of Aberdeen, School of Marine Science and Engineering, Plymouth University, Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques ( EPOC ), Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers ( OASU ), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ) -Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ) -École pratique des hautes études ( EPHE ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), Laboratoire d'études en Géophysique et océanographie spatiales ( LEGOS ), Université Paul Sabatier - Toulouse 3 ( UPS ) -Centre National d'Etudes Spatiales ( CNES ) -Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -Observatoire Midi-Pyrénées ( OMP ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), School of Engineering (ISEP) of the Polytechnic Institute of Porto (IPP), Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière ( M2C ), Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ) -Université de Rouen Normandie ( UNIROUEN ), Normandie Université ( NU ) -Normandie Université ( NU ) -Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -Université de Caen Normandie ( UNICAEN ), Normandie Université ( NU ), Departamento de Ingenierıa Hidraulica y Ambiental, Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile, Deltares, DELTARES, European Project : 261520,EC:FP7:INFRA,FP7-INFRASTRUCTURES-2010-1,HYDRALAB IV ( 2010 ), Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] (LEGI), Université Joseph Fourier - Grenoble 1 (UJF)-Institut polytechnique de Grenoble - Grenoble Institute of Technology (Grenoble INP )-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research [Utrecht] (IMAU), Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques (EPOC), Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers (OASU), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École Pratique des Hautes Études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Laboratoire d'études en Géophysique et océanographie spatiales (LEGOS), Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Université Toulouse III - Paul Sabatier (UT3), Université de Toulouse (UT)-Université de Toulouse (UT)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Observatoire Midi-Pyrénées (OMP), Université de Toulouse (UT)-Université de Toulouse (UT)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National d'Études Spatiales [Toulouse] (CNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Météo-France -Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National d'Études Spatiales [Toulouse] (CNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Météo-France -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière (M2C), Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN), Normandie Université (NU)-Normandie Université (NU)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université de Rouen Normandie (UNIROUEN), Normandie Université (NU)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile (UC), European Project: 261520,EC:FP7:INFRA,FP7-INFRASTRUCTURES-2010-1,HYDRALAB IV(2010), Institut polytechnique de Grenoble - Grenoble Institute of Technology (Grenoble INP )-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Joseph Fourier - Grenoble 1 (UJF), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Fédérale Toulouse Midi-Pyrénées-Université Fédérale Toulouse Midi-Pyrénées-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Observatoire Midi-Pyrénées (OMP), Météo France-Centre National d'Études Spatiales [Toulouse] (CNES)-Université Fédérale Toulouse Midi-Pyrénées-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Météo France-Centre National d'Études Spatiales [Toulouse] (CNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), and Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Météo France-Centre National d'Études Spatiales [Toulouse] (CNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Fédérale Toulouse Midi-Pyrénées-Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Météo France-Centre National d'Études Spatiales [Toulouse] (CNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)

Subjects
[ PHYS.MECA.MEFL ] Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Mechanics of the fluids [physics.class-ph], [PHYS.MECA.MEFL]Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Fluid mechanics [physics.class-ph]
Abstract

International audience; As waves approach the shore, their non-linear dynamics becomes increasingly important. Most of our understanding of wave non-linearity has resulted from theoretical work, laboratory experiments and field studies on beaches slopes steeper than about 1:40. There, very strong non-linear processes happen locally and on a short time scale, as demonstrated by narrow surf zones with plunging or collapsing breakers. The non-linearity on gently-sloping beaches, typical of high-energy dissipative environments, has a different character, as it can build up over a long period of time and along an extensive cross-shore area. This contribution serves to introduce the GLOBEX project, during which a high-resolution (in space and time) data set of the cross-shore evolution of short and infragravity waves was collected on a low-sloping (1:80) non-mobile laboratory beach. As non-linear transfers also occur in the vertical from the free-stream flow downwards into the bottom boundary layer, additional flow measurements performed with Laser Doppler Anemometry are also briefly presented.

Published
2014

16. Role of short and long-wave interaction on wave celerity in the surf zone of a low-sloping beach

Author

Tissier, Marion, Almar, Rafael, Bonneton, Philippe, Michallet, Hervé, Birrien, Florent, De Bakker, Anouk, Ruessink, B. Gerben, Department of Physical Geography, Utrecht University [Utrecht]-Faculty of Geosciences, Laboratoire d'Etudes en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales (LEGOS NOUMEA), Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Institut de recherche pour le développement [IRD] : UR065-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques (EPOC), Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers (OASU), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] (LEGI), Institut polytechnique de Grenoble - Grenoble Institute of Technology (Grenoble INP )-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Joseph Fourier - Grenoble 1 (UJF), Utrecht University [Utrecht], GLOBEX, and Michallet, Hervé

Subjects
infragravity waves, bore merging, [PHYS.MECA.MEFL] Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Fluid mechanics [physics.class-ph], [SPI.MECA.MEFL] Engineering Sciences [physics]/Mechanics [physics.med-ph]/Fluids mechanics [physics.class-ph], Broken wave celerity, [PHYS.MECA.MEFL]Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Fluid mechanics [physics.class-ph], Physics::Classical Physics, non-linear celerity predictors, [SPI.MECA.MEFL]Engineering Sciences [physics]/Mechanics [physics.med-ph]/Fluids mechanics [physics.class-ph]
Abstract

International audience; A good prediction of wave celerity is essential for wave propagation modeling in the nearshore. Previous studies have been focusing on the analysis of wave celerities averaged over several waves, neglecting the intra-wave variability due to long-wave transformation for instance. This paper is devoted to a study of individual wave transformation in the surf zone of a low-sloping beach, based on the analysis of a high-resolution laboratory dataset. The variability of the individual wave celerity in the surf zone is quantified and is seen to relate with the local elevation of the long waves normalized by the mean water depth. Lastly, individual wave celerities are compared to the predictions given by several linear and non-linear models.

Published
2013

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