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Koža je naš največji organ, ki nas poleg fizične razmejitve od okolja varuje tudi s kemijsko bariero. Kemijsko bariero kože sestavlja povrhnjica, katere najpomembnejši del je rožena plast z vsemi pripadajočimi komponentami, ki jo izgrajujejo. Barierna funkcija kože je tako odvisna od pH vrednosti (površine) kože, sestave in urejenosti lipidnega dela kožne bariere in vsebnosti vlage, kožne mikrobiote in aktivnosti encimov, ki vplivajo na ustrezen potek fizioloških procesov v koži. Če je ta bariera neustrezna, je koža izpostavljena vdoru patogenov iz okolja, povečanemu izhlapevanju vode, koža postane suha in ni sposobna opravljati funkcij, ki so ključne za pravilno izgradnjo in sestavo kožne bariere. Do okvare slednje pa lahko pride tudi zaradi različnih kožnih bolezni. Tako ločimo primarne okvare kožne bariere, ki so posledica okvare genov in sekundarne okvare kožne bariere, kjer je neustrezna bariera posledica delovanja dejavnikov iz okolja. Znotraj primarnih in sekundarnih okvar se pojavljajo bolezni atopijski dermatitis, luskavica in ihtioza. Vsem trem boleznim je skupno, da so na različne načine okvarjene ključne komponente in procesi, ki so pomembni za vzpostavitev ustrezne barierne funkcije kože. Osnovna nega prizadete kože pri vseh treh boleznih tako vključuje uporabo kozmetičnih izdelkov, ki temeljijo na sestavinah, ki vzpodbujajo obnovo kožne bariere in povečajo hidratacijo povrhnjice. Tudi zdravljenje teh obolenj pri blažjih oblikah bolezni temelji na lokalni terapiji, pri hujših oblikah pa slednjo kombinirajo s sistemskim zdravljenjem ter nekaterimi drugimi pristopi k zdravljenju kožnih obolenj. Na trgu so na voljo kozmetični izdelki, ki vsebujejo različne sestavine za obnovo kožne bariere. Podrobneje smo preučili 13 izdelkov namenjenih negi kože z atopijskim dermatitisom, 11 izdelkov za blaženje simptomov luskavice in 9 izdelkov za kožo z ihtiozo. Izbrane izdelke smo nadaljnje razdelili v izdelke, namenjene vsakodnevni negi kože in izdelke namenjene čiščenju. Namen diplomske naloge je bil poiskati podobnosti in razlike v sestavi kozmetičnih izdelkov za nego kože z vsemi tremi kožnimi obolenji. V skladu s pričakovanji je vsem kožnim obolenjem skupna uporaba sestavin z vlažilnim delovanjem, saj smo slednje zasledili v vseh kozmetičnih izdelkih. Med najpogosteje zastopanimi so bili emolienti, ki z zapolnitvijo prostorov med celicami rožene plasti preprečujejo prekomerno luščenje in povečajo hidratacijo kože, sledili so humektanti in nato okluzivi. Vsi so se pojavljali tako v izdelkih za nego kože vnetnih obolenj, kot tudi v izdelkih za čiščenje, a smo pri slednjih opazili redkejšo prisotnost okluzivov. V izdelkih za atopijski dermatitis so nekoliko pogosteje kot v ostalih prisotna različna rastlinska olja, ki vsebujejo nenasičene maščobne kisline (γ – linolenska, linolna, palmitooleinska), ki izkazujejo posebne učinke na koži s poškodovano bariero. V skladu s teoretičnimi osnovami smo preučili prisotnost keratolitikov v kozmetičnih izdelkih, ki se uporabljajo za zmanjšanje hiperkeratoznih lezij na koži. Te smo zasledili zgolj v izdelkih za nego kože z luskavico in ihtiozo. Kozmetični izdelki za nego atopične kože keratolitiov ne vsebujejo, saj zanjo niso značilne hiperkeratozne lezije na koži. Najpogosteje uporabljen keratolitik je bila salicilna kislina, ki sodi med beta in aromatične hidroksi kisline in omogoča zmanjšanje zadebelitev lezij na koži, saj vpliva na lažje luščenje celic v povrhnjici. Največje razlike v sestavi izdelkov, ki so namenjeni negi kože z različnimi vnetnimi obolenji, smo zasledili na nivoju aktivnih sestavin. Skupna vsem je sestavina nikotinamid, ki je aktivna oblika vitamina B3 in dokazano povečuje hidratacijo povrhnjice, vpliva na sintetzo keratina, filagrina in ceramidov v roženi plasti. Prav tako smo ugotovili, da so v izdelkih za ihtiozo aktivne sestavine redkeje prisotne, kot je to značilno v izdelkih za atopijski dermatitis in luskavico. Pre-, pro- in postbiotiki se v kozmetične izdelke dodajajo predvsem z namenom uravnavanja zdrave kožne mikrobiote. Sodijo med najnovejše pristope k ohranjanju zdrave barierne funkcije kože in hkrati nege kože s poškodovano kožno bariero. V skladu s tem smo na trgu zasledili izdelke, ki vsebujejo termalno vodo s selenom in koloidni izvleček ovsa, ki sodita med prebiotike. To so predvsem oligosaharidi, sladkorni alkoholi in kompleksni polisaharidi, ki predstavljajo hrano za komenzalne bakterije in vzpodbujajo poseljevanje kože z zdravo mikrobioto. The skin is our largest organ which, apart from being a physical barrier from the environment, also protects with a chemical barrier. A chemical barrier consists of the epidermis, the most important layer of it being the stratum corneum, with all its belonging components. The barrier function of the skin therefore depends on the skin`s pH value (on the surface), composition and orderliness of the lipid layer of the skin and its level of moisture content, skin microbiota and the activity of the enzymes, which all affects the course of physiological processes in the skin. If the skin`s barrier is not adequate, the pathogens from the environment can enter the skin, evaporation of water is increased and the skin becomes dry, which makes it incapable of performing the functions needed for the correct build and cohesion of the skin barrier. The skin barrier can also be negatively affected by various skin diseases. Therefore, we have two groups of structural abnormalities of the skin barrier, the primary group being where the structural abnormality is caused by gene defects, and the secondary group of structural abnormalities which are caused by environmental factors. Within these two groups, different diseases are found atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and ichthyosis. These three diseases have in common that the key components and processes that are important for the correct build of the skin barrier are negatively affected in many ways. Basic care of the affected skin by any of the three diseases is achieved by the use of cosmetic products which are made of ingredients that encourage the regeneration of the skin barrier and increase the hydration of the epidermis. The treatment of the said diseases is based on local therapy in milder forms of the disease, in case of a severe form of the disease, the treatment is a combination of local therapy, systemic treatment and some other approaches for the treatment of skin diseases. There are many different products on the market which contain different ingredients for the regeneration of the skin barrier. We have examined in more detail 13 skin care products which are intended for skin with atopic dermatitis, 11 skin care products intended to relieve the symptoms of psoriasis and 9 skin care products for skin ichthyosis. These products were then divided into two groups, one for products that are intended for daily skin care, and the other for products intended for skin cleansing. We have found that all examined products for all three diseases use ingredients with moisturizing action, which was in line with our expectations. The most commonly found were emollients, which fill the open spaces between the cells in the stratum corneum and in that way prevent excessive skin peeling and increase the hydration of skin, followed by humectants and then occlusives. They were all found in products for skin care of inflammatory diseases and also in products for skin cleansing however, the occlusives were rarer in the latter group of products. The use of vegetable oils that contain unsaturated fatty acids (γ – linolenic, linoleic, palmitooleic) which exhibit special effects on skin with a damaged barrier is a bit more common in products made for treatment of atopic dermatitis. In accordance with the theoretical fundamentals, we have examined the presence of keratolytics in cosmetic products, which are used to reduce hyperkeratotic lesions on the skin. They were only found in skin care products for skin with psoriasis and ichthyosis. Cosmetic products for care of atopic skin do not contain keratolytics because the hyperkeratotic lesions on the skin are not specific for them. The most commonly used keratolytic is salicylic acid, which is a type of beta and aromatic hydroxy acids and allows reducing of the thickening of lesions on the skin as it affects the easier exfoliation of cells in the epidermis. We have found the biggest differences between the products intended for skin care with different inflammatory diseases in the use of active ingredients. Common to all is an ingredient called nicotinamide, which is an active form of B3 and it has been proved that it increases the hydration of the epidermis, affects the synthesis of keratin, filaggrin and ceramides in the stratum corneum. We have also found out that the active ingredients are rarely present in products for ichthyosis, as it is typical in products for atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Pre-, pro- and postbiotics are added to cosmetic products predominantly for the purpose of regulating a healthy skin microbiota. They are one of the latest approaches to maintaining a healthy skin barrier function and at the same time take care of skin with a damaged skin barrier. In accordance with this, we have come across products on the market which contain thermal water with selenium and colloidal oat extract, which are prebiotics. These are mainly oligosaccharides, sugar alcohols and complex polysaccharides, which are food for commensal bacteria and promote the colonization of the skin with a healthy microbiota.

Lasje in oblika pričeske so ena prvih vizualnih lastnosti, ki jih opazimo pri človeku. Da lase lažje oblikujemo ter da v takšni obliki ostanejo za daljše časovno obdobje, se poslužujemo kozmetičnih izdelkov za oblikovanje las. Po pregledu literature in ponudbe na tržišču smo ugotovili, da sta terminologija in razdelitev izdelkov na tem področju še precej nedorečeni. Glede na aktivne sestavine, ki jih ti izdelki vsebujejo, smo jih razdelili v dve skupini, in sicer na izdelke z emolienti in izdelke s polimeri. Ker pa na tržišče ves čas prihajajo nove oblike izdelkov, smo v raziskavo vključili še izdelke v obliki pudra. Pregledali smo sestavine 140 naključno izbranih izdelkov, ki jih lahko najdemo v trgovinah po Sloveniji ter na spletnih straneh proizvajalcev. Izmed pregledanih izdelkov je bilo 77 izdelkov s polimeri, 57 izdelkov z emolienti in 6 pudrov. Pri pregledu smo se osredotočili na glavne aktivne sestavine ter sestavine, na katere moramo biti pozorni z vidika varnosti. To so konzervansi, dišave, barvila in UV-filtri. Za najpogostejše sestavine v izdelkih smo nato zbrali še toksikološke podatke, ki so bili na voljo, ter na podlagi teh podatkov ocenjevali njihovo varnost. Kljub zaostrovanju predpisov in spremembam zahtev potrošnikov, ki sili proizvajalce v razvoj novih polimernih sistemov, sta bila v pregledanih izdelkih še vedno najpogostejša kopolimer vinilpirolidona in vinilacetata ter polivinilpirolidon, ki veljata za ena izmed prvih uporabljenih polimerov. S kombinacijo različnih polimerov dosežemo sinergistično delovanje, vendar pa je bilo kljub temu največ takšnih izdelkov s polimeri, ki so vsebovali le en polimerni tvorilec filma. Med emolienti se je najpogosteje pojavil čebelji vosek, v povprečju pa so izdelki z emolienti vsebovali po štiri emoliente. Med konzervansi je bil najpogosteje zastopan fenoksietanol, ki smo ga našli v 58% vseh izdelkov. V izdelkih je bilo prisotnih 16 izmed 26 dišav, ki so znani alergeni, med njimi pa je bil najpogostejši linalol, ki smo ga našli v skoraj dveh tretjinah vseh pregledanih izdelkov. Barvila je vsebovalo 16% vseh izdelkov, od tega je bilo največ obarvanih izdelkov z emolienti. Med največkrat uporabljenimi barvili je bilo briljantno modro barvilo FCF, ki smo ga našli v 30% obarvanih izdelkov. UV-filtre smo našli v četrtini vseh pregledanih izdelkov, med njimi pa je bil daleč najbolj zastopan benzofenon-4, ki se je pojavil v 74% teh izdelkov. Med sabo smo primerjali tudi izdelke devetih različnih proizvajalcev, ki jih najdemo na slovenskem trgu. Med njimi je z vidika varnosti najbolj izstopala znamka samo enega proizvajalca zaradi povprečno največjega števila sestavin v izdelkih in uporabljenih sestavin, ki lahko prispevajo k večjemu tveganju za nastanek iritacij in alergijskih reakcij. Hairstyles are one of the first visual features to be observed in people. In order for our hairstyle to stay in the desired shape for longer periods of time, we have to use hair styling products. After the review of literature and the offer on the Slovenian market, we have concluded that the terminology and classification of these products are still a little vague. Considering the active ingredients, they are divided into two groups, products containing emollients and products containing polymers. Since there are always new forms of hair styling cosmetics that are put on the market, we have decided to include powder products in our research as well. We analysed 140 randomly selected products, found in Slovenian stores and on the websites of different cosmetics companies. 77 of them were polymer products, 57 emollient products and 6 powders. During our research, we focused mostly on the main active ingredients and the ingredients, which are often questionable in terms of safety - preservatives, fragrances, dyes and UV-filters. Based on toxicological data that was available, we evaluated safety of the most commonly used ingredients. Due to strict regulations and changes in consumers’ needs, manufacturers are forced into developing new polymer systems. However, based on our research, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone, polymers that have been used for decades, are still the most commonly present polymers in hair styling products. Synergy can be achieved with the combination of different polymers, yet the products containing only one film-forming polymer were the most frequent. On average, there were four emollients present in emollient products and the most commonly used emollient was beeswax. The most commonly present preservative was phenoxyethanol, which was found in 58% hair styling products. There were 16 out of 26 fragrances, known as allergens, present in reviewed products, among which the most common was linalool, found in nearly two thirds of products. Among all hair styling products only 16% contained dyes, most of which were present in emollient products. The most commonly used dye in coloured products was Brilliant blue FCF, found in 30% of those products. UV-filters were found in one quarter of products, benzophenone-4 being by far the most common, present in 74% of those products. There has also been made a comparison between nine different cosmetics companies, whose products can be found on the Slovenian market. In terms of safety, there was only brand of a certain manufacturer that stood out, due to the highest average number of ingredients and the type of ingredients used, which may increase some risk of causing irritation and allergic reactions.