235 results on '"parfum"'
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2. İslam Hukukunda Koku Sürünmenin Hükümleri.
- Author
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ARAZ, Ramazan
- Abstract
This study aims to clarify the rulings of wearing fragrances in Islamic law. Pleasant fragrances have been used throughout history by different communities, including prophets for various purposes such as healing, personal care, or religious reasons. Pleasant fragrances have many benefits for humans, the foremost of which is enhancing memory. Fragrances also directly affect the memory, causing the formation of certain emotions or memories. Another remarkable feature of fragrances is that they can arouse human lust. Fragrant plants exist in nature in different types. They are classified into three categories: those cultivated solely for their fragrance, those cultivated for other purposes, and those cultivated both for their fragrance and for other purposes. This classification is significant in terms of the rulings on wearing fragrance. Islam, aiming to protect the happiness of man in this world and the hereafter, has introduced certain rules regarding fragrances, which have a quality that affects human nature. Our Prophet (peace be upon him) expressed that fragrance has been made dear to him, wore fragrance for daily care, and recommended it to his ummah. Islam considers commendable (mustaḥab) to wear fragrance for Friday and Eid prayers, and before entering the state of iḥrām in order to be clean and well-groomed in gatherings. However, for certain reasons, it is forbidden for those in iḥrām to wear fragrance, for women to wear fragrance in the presence of non-maḥram men, and for women who are in their waiting period due to their husband’s death or a irrevocable divorce. The reason behind these prohibitions for women is to prevent the immorality that might arise due to the sexual attraction that fragrance can provoke. Another reason for the prohibition on women in the waiting period is that grooming and adornment are not improper with mourning. This is because engaging in grooming and beauty enhancing activities during a time of sorrow is not only inherently wrong, but also considered improper behavior by society. Wearing fragrance is also one of the prohibitions of ihram. The reason behind this prohibition is that fragrance is incompatible with spirit of ihram. There are some financial sanctions for violating this prohibition. Fragrances produced in the last century generally contain various additives such as alcohol. Therefore, there is a dispute regarding the impurity of fragrances containing additives such as perfume and cologne. Some scholars state that these substances, being impure, would invalidate acts of worship that require purity from najāsa. Other scholars do not consider these substances impure. The rulings on fragrance use reveal how much importance and value Islam attaches to human nature. Indeed, the encouragement of wearing fragrance in certain cases is based on the wisdom of demanding the benefit that will arise. Conversely, prohibiting the same act in other cases aims to prevent greater harm that may arise. Therefore, analyzing the legal rulings on wearing fragrance reveals the delicate balance observed by Islamic law in issuing its rulings. The rulings on wearing fragrance are found scattered under different topics in classical fiqh works. Although there are few studies conducted on wearing fragrance in the modern era, those addressing the issue from a fiqh perspective are inadequate in terms of quality and scope. Thus, there is a need for a study that addresses the situations where wearing fragrance is recommended, the situations where it is prohibited, and and what are the sanctions for them, together with their evidences, from a fiqh perspective. This study examines the rulings on wearing fragrance according to the four schools, primarily the Ḥanafi school, under various headings. It also analyzes the use of cologne and perfume, which are subject to various disputes due to their additives. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
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3. Pelatihan Dan Pendampingan Pembuatan Produk Turunan Minyak Nilam Di Desa Matano, Kab. Luwu Timur
- Author
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Jusrianto Jusrianto, Hilda Rahmawati, and Nur Muhajirah Yunus
- Subjects
Minyak Nilam ,Produk turunan ,sabun mandi ,handbody ,parfum ,Human settlements. Communities ,HT51-65 - Abstract
Tanaman nilam merupakan komoditas unggulan Indonesia dalam produksi minyak atsiri. Minyak atsiri nilam umumnya digunakan dalam kosmetik, kesehatan dan industri parfum. Desa Matano adalah salah-satu desa yang membudidayakan tanaman nilam dan menghasilkan minyak nilam. Pemahaman mayoritas penduduk desa Matano hanya sebatas budidaya dan produksi minyak nilam. oleh karena itu, kegiatan ini bertujuan untuk memberikan pelatihan dan pendampingan pembuatan produk turunan minyak nilam yaitu berupa sabun mandi, handbody dan parfum. Kegiatan ini terdiri dari tiga tahapan yaitu persiapan, pelaksanaan kegiatan dan evaluasi program. Pada tahapan pelaksanaan kegiatan, penduduk desa Matano diberikan pelatihan eksperimen langsung pembuatan produk turunan minyak nilam yaitu handbody, sabun mandi dan parfum, sosialisai manajemen keuangan berbasis software, sosialisasi manajemen sumber daya manusia berbasi software, penjualan berbasis toko online dan media social serta sosialisasi Packaging dan teknik photography. Kegiatan ini memberikan pengetahuan dan keterampilan dalam menghasilkan produk turunan minyak nilam, yang berpotensi meningkatkan pendapatan penduduk desa Matano.
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
4. PELATIHAN BERBASIS WIRAUSAHA PADA MURID SMK KEPERAWATAN MELALUI PEMBUATAN PARFUM PADAT AROMATERAPI ANTITUBERKULOSIS SEBAGAI UPAYA PENCEGAHAN TUBERKULOSIS.
- Author
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Fitri Kusuma, Sri Agung, Fadhlillah, Muhammad, Rostinawati, Tina, and Rahayu, Driyanti
- Abstract
Soft skills and skills possessed by competent Baabul Kamil nursing vocational students in Jatinangor district can be a great opportunity to open new entrepreneurs who contribute to the health sector. In this community service activity, SMK students are equipped with training on making products of anti-tuberculosis aromatherapy perfume solid made from active citronella oil using a simple method. The resulting product can induce students to be able to perform interpersonal communication in carrying out nursing actions in marketing this antituberculosis aromatherapy product. The purpose of this community service program is to establish economic independence and improve the quality of graduates of students through increasing skills by obtaining antituberculosis inhalation products. This program also intended to increase communication skills of Baabul Kamil Vocational High School students in providing health education to the community as an extension of the Community Health Center in breaking the chain of transmission of tuberculosis. The method of this program includes a pre-test, followed by counseling activities, post-test, manufacture of solid anti-tuberculosis perfume products and counseling on entrepreneurship management. The results obtained were data on the level of knowledge of SMK students about tuberculosis and monitoring of its treatment, namely 55.56% had good knowledge and 44.44% had sufficient knowledge. This data shows that the success of the teaching system at SMK Baabul Kamil in teaching basic health knowledge in general. After special counseling about tuberculosis was held, the level of student knowledge increased to 83.33% with good knowledge and 16.67% with sufficient knowledge. The enthusiasm of Baabul Kamil Vocational High School students in the training on making solid perfume products was also very high. So it can be concluded that the provision of skills and knowledge possessed by SMK students increases and is able to induce student interest to make them independently to pursue entrepreneurship early. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
5. Progrès ou décadence, art ou fumisterie? La critique fin-de-siècle des synesthésies.
- Author
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Wicky, Erika
- Abstract
Defined as the individual and recurrent association of the mental image of a color with the perception of a sound, colored hearing—including the sensory perceptions named synesthesia from the 1890s onwards—had a substantial impact on both the arts and sciences during the last quarter of the nineteenth century. During this media age, chronicles, popular essays, fiction, works by art, literary, and theatrical critics, and caricatures dealing with this modality of sensory perception multiplied in the newspaper and specialized press, in fashion newspapers, and in the satirical press. Often in dialogue with each other, these articles and drawings constitute a corpus testifying of the international reception of the arts and sciences of synesthesia. Above all, the press articles reflect a keen interest in synesthesia, which emerged as a social topic that, at times, aroused exasperation or enthusiasm but most often curiosity and perplexity. Three main postures stand out in the critical reception of synesthetic or polysensorial works of art: doubts about the reality of these perceptions, which were expressed in spite of the scientific endorsement from which the synesthesia benefited; the enthusiasm stemming from the emergence of novel perceptions likely to transform one's relationship to art and the world; and, finally, the belief that these perceptions testified to a degeneration of art and humanity. The aim of this article is to observe how these questions, fundamental to the history of aesthetic appreciation, were presented to the large and diverse reading public of the fin-de-siècle press in order to highlight the conceptions and judgments associated with synesthesia as well as the endogenous links forged among sensory perception, progress, and decadence. This approach allows us to better grasp the enthusiasm and resistance generated by questioning the hierarchies that have governed the history of the senses and the arts. Définies comme une association individuelle et récurrente de l'image mentale d'une couleur à la perception d'un son, l'audition colorée, puis les perceptions sensorielles nommées synesthésies à partir des années 1890, ont connu un important retentissement à la fois dans le domaine des arts et des sciences pendant le dernier quart du dix-neuvième siècle. À l'ère médiatique, les chroniques, critiques d'art, critiques littéraires ou théâtrales, essais de vulgarisation, textes de fiction mais aussi les caricatures abordant cette modalité de la perception sensorielle se multiplient dans la presse quotidienne et spécialisée, mais aussi dans les journaux de mode et dans la presse satirique. Dialoguant souvent entre eux, ces textes et ces dessins constituent un corpus témoignant de la réception internationale des arts et des sciences des synesthésie. Les articles de presse rendent ainsi compte avant tout d'un vif intérêt pour les synesthésies, qui s'imposent comme un sujet de société suscitant parfois de l'exaspération ou de l'enthousiasme, mais le plus souvent de la curiosité et de la perplexité. Trois postures principales se détachent dans la réception critique des oeuvres d'art synesthésiques ou polysensorielles : le doute quant à la réalité de ces perceptions qui s'exprime en dépit de la caution scientifique dont les synesthésies bénéficient, l'enthousiasme que suscite l'idée de nouvelles perceptions susceptibles de transformer le rapport à l'art et au monde et, enfin, l'idée que ces perceptions témoignent d'une dégénérescence de l'art et des hommes. Il s'agit d'observer comment ces questions si fondamentales pour l'histoire de l'appréciation esthétique ont été présentées au public large et diversifié des lecteurs et lectrices de la presse fin-de-siècle afin de mettre en évidence les conceptions et jugements associés aux synesthésies ainsi que les liens endogènes tissés entre perception sensorielle, progrès et décadence. Cela permet de mieux saisir les enjeux de l'enthousiasme et des résistances suscitées par la remise en cause des hiérarchies qui gouvernaient l'histoire des sens et celle des arts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
6. Antik Çağ'da Tedavi Edici Parfüm Üretme Sanatı: Susinum Örneği.
- Author
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BABAÇ ÇELEBİ, Rana
- Abstract
Copyright of Turkiye Klinikleri Journal of Medical Ethics-Law & History / Türkiye klinikleri tıp Etiği, Hukuku ve Tarihi Dergisi is the property of Turkiye Klinikleri and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
7. PROTECȚIA PARFUMULUI ŞI DREPTUL PROPRIETĂȚII INTELECTUALE.
- Author
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CIRCA, Adrian
- Subjects
TRADEMARKS ,BRAND name products ,PERFUMES industry ,TECHNOLOGICAL progress ,ARTISTIC creation - Abstract
Copyright of Romanian Journal of Intellectual Property Law / Revista Română de Dreptul Proprietăţii Intelectuale is the property of Universul Juridic Publishing House and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2023
8. Scents of Space: Early Islamic Pilgrimage, Perfume, and Paradise.
- Author
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Bursi, Adam
- Subjects
- *
PARADISE , *ODORS , *PILGRIMS & pilgrimages , *SACRED space , *PERFUMES - Abstract
Within some of the earliest textual and material evidence for the history of Islam, pilgrimage appears as an important ritual of devotion, identity, and community. Yet modern scholarship has given little attention to early Muslims' sensory experiences of pilgrimage sites and what they physically encountered while there. This article examines the importance of smell within Islamic pilgrimage practices of the first/seventh and second/eighth centuries. Drawing upon literary and material evidence, I reconstruct several olfactory components of pilgrimage in this period, including intensive usage of perfume and incense at pilgrimage destinations such as the Kaʿba and the Dome of the Rock, as well as pilgrims' collection and ingestion of scented materials from these locations. I then argue that the prominence of pleasing aromas at these sacred spaces is connecting to early Islamic ideas about the proximity of paradise to these pilgrimage sites. Résumé: Dans certaines des premières sources textuelles et matérielles de l'histoire de l'islam, le pèlerinage apparaît comme un rituel important de dévotion, d'identité et de communauté. Néanmoins, dans la recherche contemporaine, les expériences sensorielles sur les sites du pèlerinage des musulmans ont fait l'objet de peu d'études. Cet article examine l'importance de l'odorat dans les pratiques islamiques du pèlerinage des Ier/VIIe et IIe/VIIIe siècles. En m'appuyant sur des sources littéraires et matérielles, je reconstruis de nombreuses composantes de l'olfaction dans le pèlerinage à cette époque, y compris l'importante utilisation de parfums et d'encens dans les lieux de pèlerinage tels que la Kaʿba et le Dôme du Rocher, ainsi que la collecte et l'ingestion de matériaux parfumés par les pèlerins à partir de ces emplacements. Je soutiens ensuite que l'importance des aromates dans ces espaces sacrés est liée aux premières représentations islamiques sur la proximité du paradis avec ces sites de pèlerinage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2020
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
9. 'Le baccar et la thérapie de la suffocation hystérique: les enjeux des choix lexicaux d'Arétée de Cappadoce'
- Author
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Divna, Soleil and Aix Marseille Université (AMU)
- Subjects
terminologie médicale ,parfum ,Collection hippocratique ,Arétée de Cappadoce ,[SHS]Humanities and Social Sciences - Abstract
International audience; Cette contribution a pour but d’étudier la créativité lexicale d’un auteurmédical hellénophone de l’époque impériale, Arétée de Cappadoce, réputépourtant surtout comme imitateur de médecins et poètes anciens. En nouspenchant sur sa façon de remployer un terme rare, le substantif βάκκαρις, attesté àla fois chez les premiers iambographes et dans la Collection hippocratique, noustentons de montrer qu’Arétée cherche à atteindre un but double : il s’inscrit dansla tradition des pratiques scripturales hellénistiques tout en se signalant commehéritier des idées médicales hippocratiques, réélaborées pour soigner les patientesde l’époque impériale. Certains choix lexicaux du Cappadocien permettent ainsid’analyser son écriture comme se situant à mi-chemin entre remploi à la foisornemental et doctrinal et constitution d’une pratique médicale hippocratiquerenouvelée.
- Published
- 2023
10. « J’ai achevé un monument plus durable que l’airain » : le temple des images de Charles Baudelaire
- Author
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Locatelli, Federica
- Subjects
Linguistics and Language ,History ,Literature and Literary Theory ,parfum ,perfume ,image ,Mallarmé (Stéphane) ,tombeau ,Baudelaire (Charles) ,Language and Linguistics - Abstract
Dans les feuillets de ses notes manuscrites, Benveniste prône une voie épistémologique spécifique, consistant à comprendre l’univers poétique baudelairien en réfléchissant sur le « choix révélateur » et sur l’« articulation » de certaines images. C’est ainsi que Mallarmé célèbre la langue novatrice de Baudelaire et son imaginaire, dans le tombeau qu’il dédie à l’auteur des Fleurs du Mal. Chaque strophe tourne autour d’un motif central, codé métaphoriquement : le « temple », le « museau », la « mèche », le « poison » et enfin l’« Ombre », à l’aide d’une syntaxe qui dissout tout statisme et dénoue les liens préconstruits. Ce poème se donne comme un témoignage essentiel de la postérité de l’artiste et de la révolution qu’il a apportée dans le domaine de l’expression poétique, dont Mallarmé souligne le caractère novateur, en renouvelant dans son hommage, par le choix de substantifs tels que « bouche d’égout » ou « bave », la subversion de la parole proférée. In his handwritten notes, Benveniste advocates a specific epistemological approach to Baudelaire’s poetry, consisting in the analysis of his poetic universe through the “revealing choice” of words and the “articulation” of certain images. This is also how Mallarmé celebrates Baudelaire's innovative language and his shocking imagination, in the tombeau that he dedicates to the author of the Flowers of Evil. Each stanza revolves around a central motif, coded through metaphors: the “temple”, the “museau”, the “mèche”, the “poison” and finally the “Ombre” while the syntax dissolves stasis and volatilizes any predetermined link. This poem is an essential illustration of the artist’s legacy and of his poetic revolution: Mallarmé, in fact, stresses the innovative character of Baudelaire’s work by renewing in his homage, with such nouns as “bouche d’égout” or “bave”, the subversion of the uttered word.
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
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11. Knjiga in film – primer adaptacije romana Parfum: Zgodba o morilcu Patricka Süskinda
- Author
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Intihar, Zala and Vogrinčič Čepič, Ana
- Subjects
odklonskost ,deviance ,udc:791.31:82(043.2) ,novel ,parfum ,perfume ,adaptation ,adaptacija ,film ,roman - Abstract
Parfum: Zgodba o morilcu predstavlja fantazijski roman (v izvirniku je izšel v Nemčiji kot Das Parfum) nemškega avtorja Patricka Süskinda, ki je bil objavljen leta 1985. Na prvi pogled roman raziskuje čut vonja in njegov vpliv na čustva posameznika oz. posameznice. Vendar je poleg tega tudi roman o identiteti, komunikaciji in smrtnosti človeškega duha. Jedro magistrske naloge predstavlja dotični roman in njegova filmska adaptacija. Ukvarjala se bom s primerjalno analizo dela v obeh medijih. Obravnavala bom povezavo med literaturo in filmom kot dvema različnima umetniškima zvrstema. Osrednji cilj naloge je iskanje in analiziranje razlik ter podobnosti med literarno predlogo in filmom. Teoretični del magistrske naloge bo temeljil na razmerju med literaturo in filmom ter obravnavi načinov prenosa literarnega dela v filmsko obliko. Perfume: The Story of a Murderer is a fantasy novel (originally published in Germany as Das Parfum) by German author Patrick Süskind, published in 1985. At first sight, the novel explores the sense of smell and its relationship with the emotional meaning that different scents can have for an individual. But it is also a novel about identity, communication and the mortality of the human spirit. The core of the master's thesis is the novel and its film adaptation. I will focus on a comparative analysis of the work in both media. I will examine the relationship between literature and film as two different artistic genres. The main aim of the thesis is to find and analyse the differences and similarities between the literary template and the film. The theoretical part of the master thesis will be based on the relationship between literature and film and on the ways in which a literary work can be translated into a film form.
- Published
- 2022
12. L’évolution de la publicité à travers quelques parfums (Coco Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier et Yves Saint-Laurent)
- Author
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Falcón Revilla, María, Benito de la Fuente, Luis Javier, Universidad de Valladolid. Facultad de Filosofía y Letras, Falcón Revilla, María, Benito de la Fuente, Luis Javier, and Universidad de Valladolid. Facultad de Filosofía y Letras
- Abstract
A lo largo de este Trabajo de Fin de Grado hemos estudiado la evolución de la publicidad a partir de los años 60 a través de diversas marcas de perfume que nos han resultado elementales (Coco Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier e Yves Saint-Laurent). El principal objetivo ha sido descubrir la vida de los tres diseñadores franceses, estudiar su evolución en el mundo de la moda, desde las primeras colecciones de ropa hasta el lanzamiento de sus perfumes, para, de esta manera, llegar a ver la importancia de la imagen de la mujer y del hombre representada en los distintos frascos de perfume. Para alcanzar este objetivo ha sido necesario estudiar la publicidad y sus objetivos para posteriormente analizar las tres marcas. De esta manera, hemos podido ver la trayectoria hasta día de hoy de cada uno de los diseñadores., Tout au long de ce Mémoire de Fin d’Études, nous avons étudié l’évolution de la publicité depuis les années soixante à travers différentes marques de parfums qui nous ont semblé incontournables (Coco Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier et Yves Saint-Laurent). L’objectif principal a été celui de découvrir la vie des trois créateurs français, d’étudier leur évolution dans le monde de la mode, des premières collections de vêtements au lancement de leurs parfums, afin d’en venir à voir l’importance de l’image de la femme et de l’homme représentée dans les différents flacons de parfum. Pour atteindre cet objectif, il a fallu étudier la publicité et ses objectifs pour ensuite analyser les trois marques. De cette façon, nous avons pu voir la trajectoire à l’heure actuelle de chacun des designers., Departamento de Filología Francesa y Alemana, Grado en Lenguas Modernas y sus Literaturas
- Published
- 2022
13. UNSUR HIPERREALITAS DALAM VIDEO IKLAN PARFUM GUERLAIN: L’HOMME IDÉAL
- Author
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Myrna Laksman-Huntley and Dea Nur Lahuda
- Subjects
Metaphor ,parfum ,media_common.quotation_subject ,Philosophy. Psychology. Religion ,iklan ,General Medicine ,tanda ,Ethnology. Social and cultural anthropology ,Hyperreality ,hiperrealitas ,GN301-674 ,Aesthetics ,Masculinity ,Semiotics ,Depiction ,Narrative ,Social media ,metafora ,Affect (linguistics) ,Psychology ,media_common - Abstract
The glance of perfume advertising found in the previous study has two main themes: visual and verbal strategies. Video advertisement of Guerlain brand perfume from France for his latest male series, L’Homme Ideal, displayed containing both themes referred to the domination of monochrome colors and the narration of the explanation of perfume itself uploaded through YouTube social media. This study examines metaphors and signs in an advertisement to see how far the advertisement affects people’s minds in playing with their imagination, using a qualitative method and literature studies as a data collection technique. The analysis uses Kövecses’s metaphorical theory, Peirce’s semiotics, and Baudrillard’s hyperreality and is supported seven informants’ input. It is found that seductive language in the form of metaphors succeeded in attracting male consumers. Various signs are also found to help the metaphor visualize the ideal image of masculinity through handsomeness, intelligence, and strength. Combining these two types of themes in the depiction of lifestyle and the explanation of the perfume smell in this video advertisement has a great potential to affect people in achieving hyperreality.
- Published
- 2021
14. L’eau de fleur d’oranger à la cour de Louis XIV
- Author
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Stanis Pérez
- Subjects
eau de fleur d’oranger ,cour ,parfum ,king ,civilization process ,orange blossom water ,Corbin (Alain) ,court ,fragrance ,General Materials Science ,Elias (Norbert) ,« civilisation des mœurs » ,souverain - Abstract
Écrire l’histoire de l’utilisation de l’eau de fleur d’oranger à la cour au xviie siècle est un bon moyen pour réinterroger la théorie d’Elias sur la « civilisation des mœurs » ou les travaux historiques de Corbin. Quoique la fragrance semble être le signe d’un raffinement croissant de l’odorat, elle peut aussi témoigner du monopole du modèle royal : le Roi-Soleil n’appréciait pas seulement un cosmétique de qualité, mais aussi un remède bien connu contre les migraines et le désordre des humeurs. Peintures, gravures et autres images soulignent la perception positive dont a bénéficié cette odeur venue de la Méditerranée et associée aux senteurs du jardin d’Éden. La culture de cour, incluant médecins, écrivains et poètes, n’a jamais hésité à vanter les mérites de l’eau de fleur d’oranger fabriquée dans l’orangerie du château de Versailles et, par la suite, dans les boutiques des apothicaires. Mais, le luxe, la « civilisation » ou l’influence royale suffisent-ils à expliquer l’intérêt croissant pour un composant traditionnel des cosmétiques devenu le parfum préféré dans la Galerie des Glaces ? Writing the history of the use of orange blossom water at the French 17th c. court is a good mean to reconsider Elias civilization process theory or Corbin historical work. Although the fragrance seems to be the proof of an increasing smelling refinement, it could also be an evidence of the King’s monopoly : The Roi-Soleil enjoyed not only a very fine cosmetic but also a well-known drug against headaches and humoral disorders. Paintings, engravings and others pictures show that the positive perception of an odour came from the Mediterranean area and was associated with Eden’s park smell. Courtly culture, including physicians, writers and poets, never hesitated to enhance the qualities of the orange blossom water made in the Versailles castle orangerie and, by the way, in urban apothecary shops. But, can only luxury, « civilization » or royal influence explain the rising interest for an old cosmetic component that became the most preferred perfume in the Galerie of Glaces ?
- Published
- 2022
15. Le lettré chinois : designer ignoré des traductions
- Author
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Bonnard, Émilie
- Subjects
design(er) (olfactif) ,lettré ,scholar ,China ,project ,parfum ,projet ,(olfactory) design(er) ,perfume ,General Medicine ,conception ,Chine - Abstract
Le regard de l’Occident sur la Chine ne cesse de se modifier, en fonction des échanges entre les deux pays, et des émotions qui étreignent les protagonistes. Dans un premier temps, l’augmentation des échanges a surtout favorisé la traduction des textes occidentaux en mandarin. Ensuite, l’attrait croissant pour la culture chinoise a conduit à l’augmentation du nombre de sinologues et à une diversification des traductions des textes chinois en Occident. La traduction des récits consacrés à la création, avant 1911 et l’avènement de la République, a révélé la personnalité complexe du lettré qui ne se limitait probablement pas à sa position de fonctionnaire administratif. Il apparaît comme un artiste et intellectuel, un savant ingénieux, parfois jardinier (Ji Chen) ou botaniste (Chen Haozi), ou encore inventeur (Li Yu). Les récits, marginaux, selon les sinologues francophones, de ces hommes créatifs et inventifs, à la croisée des disciplines, résonnent avec les discours des designers contemporains. La traduction francophone des récits de lettrés que nous avons étudiés, relate le développement d’un art de vivre avec le parfum particulièrement raffiné. Les lettrés concevaient des ustensiles, des usages, des circonstances, pour vivre harmonieusement dans une ambiance parfumée. Aujourd’hui, dans ces traductions, doit-on qualifier ce personnage de « lettré », de « designer », ou encore plus précisément de « designer olfactif » ? Un dialogue entre sinologues et designers semble s’imposer. The view of Western on China is constantly changing, depending on the exchanges between the two areas and the emotions that embrace the protagonists. Initially, the increase in exchanges mainly favored the translation of Western texts into Chinese writing. Later, the growing attraction to Chinese culture has led to an increase in the number of sinologists and the diversification of translations of Chinese texts in the Western world. The translation of the stories concerning the creation, before 1911 and the advent of the Republic, revealed the complex personality of the scholar who is probably not limited to his position as an administrative official. He appears as an artist and intellectual, an ingenious scientist, sometimes a gardener (Ji Chen) or a botanist (Chen Haozi), or even an inventor (Li Yu). The stories, marginal according to the translators, of these creative and inventive men, at the crossroads of disciplines, nevertheless echo the stories of contemporary designers. The translation of Chinese literary stories into French language that we studied, tell a particularly refined art of living with perfume. The scholars conceived utensils, uses, circumstances, to live harmoniously in a fragrant world. Today, in these translations, should we qualify this character as “scholar”, “designer”, or even more precisely “olfactory designer”? A dialogue between sinologists and designers seems to be essential.
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
16. The role of microcapsules in masking bad odors of cotton fabrics.
- Author
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GÜLÜMSER, TÜLAY
- Subjects
MOLECULAR capsules ,ODOR control ,COTTON textiles ,MICROENCAPSULATION ,NEW product development - Abstract
Copyright of Industria Textila is the property of Institutul National de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile si Pielarie and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2017
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
17. A parfüm megjelenése a szépségiparban
- Author
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Hanyecz Réka
- Subjects
parfüm ,aromák ,desztillálás ,higiénia ,parfüm ipar ,kémia ,perfume ,aromatics ,destillation ,hygiene ,perfume industry ,chemistry ,Medicine ,Medicine (General) ,R5-920 - Published
- 2013
18. Parfums et miasmes : olfactographies littéraires et cinématographiques
- Author
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Nikol Dziub
- Subjects
cinéma ,littérature ,parfum ,pessimisme ,Süskind ,Literature (General) ,PN1-6790 - Abstract
Il est intéressant de réfléchir sur la relation de la littérature et du cinéma à un objet qui leur échappe à l’une comme à l’autre : l’odeur, le parfum. L’objet du présent article est d’observer comment la littérature (nous nous arrêterons en particulier sur le cas de Proust) et le cinéma s’y prennent pour dire et pour montrer le parfum, et comment ils s’empruntent mutuellement ruses et stratagèmes pour rendre un objet qui leur est étranger. Par ailleurs, si la littérature fait des odeurs et des parfums un usage dénotant dans l’ensemble une sorte d’optimisme rousseauiste (c’est du moins ce qui appert de certaines réflexions de Roland Barthes), l’olfactographie cinématographique porte la marque de la misanthropie constitutive d’un médium essentiellement pessimiste. L’acte cinématographique s’apparente en effet à un viol optique (voir Le Voyeur de Michael Powell, 1960), de telle sorte que l’œuvre naît coupable, et que l’homme cinématographique semble marqué par un péché originel. Cette sombre morale n’a pas manqué de déteindre sur la littérature, comme en témoigne le roman de Patrick Süskind, Das Parfum (1985, adapté au cinéma en 2006 par Tom Tykwer), qui raconte l’histoire d’un enfant naissant dans les immondices, matricide malgré lui et futur parfumeur-meurtrier.
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
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19. Uses of Alum in Body Care
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Llave, Ricardo Córdoba de la
- Subjects
medicine ,brevet d’invention ,parfum ,body care ,perfume ,soin du corps ,innovation ,récit ,porcelaine ,alun ,alum ,aesthetics ,cosmétique ,médecine ,esthétique ,cosmetic - Abstract
This work deals with the use of alum in cosmetics, perfumes, corporal adornment, and body care in the Iberian Peninsula during the Late Middle Ages. The issue is explored through the examination of several manuscripts (fifteenth and sixteenth centuries) from Spanish libraries, such as the National Library (Madrid) and the Columbine Library (Seville), which hold collections of recipes that explain the use of alum in skin care, teeth and gums, hair-dyeing and bad breath. These uses demonstrate that medieval society was aware of the bactericide, deodorant, astringent, and mordant properties of alum, as well as the importance granted to products related to body care and aesthetics. Ce texte traite de l’utilisation de l’alun dans les cosmétiques, les parfums, la beauté et les soins du corps dans la péninsule ibérique à la fin du Moyen Âge. La question est explorée à travers l’examen de plusieurs manuscrits des xve et xvie siècles de bibliothèques espagnoles, telles que la Bibliothèque nationale (Madrid) et la Bibliothèque colombine (Séville), qui détiennent des collections de recettes expliquant l’utilisation de l’alun dans les soins de la peau, des dents et des gencives, pour la teinture des cheveux et contre la mauvaise haleine. Ces usages démontrent que la société médiévale était consciente des propriétés bactéricides, déodorantes, astringentes et mordantes de l’alun, ainsi que de l’importance accordée aux produits liés aux soins corporels et à la beauté.
- Published
- 2022
20. Les odeurs du monde naturel dans l’œuvre poétique d’Agrippa d’Aubigné
- Author
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Worth-Stylianou, V
- Subjects
Smell ,Parfum ,Résurrection ,Odeur ,Sens ,Aubigné ,Sense ,Resurrection ,Odorat ,Perfume - Abstract
Cet article s’interroge sur la place qu’Aubigné accorde à l’odorat dans l’imaginaire poétique du monde naturel. Bien que subordonné, dans la doctrine calviniste, à la compréhension spirituelle de la vie future, ce sens physique contribue, néanmoins, à l’expression d’une conception binaire de la création terrestre, car les parfums exquis n’existent jamais sans l’ombre de la puanteur. Pour évoquer les délices de la seconde résurrection, en revanche, l’odorat se révèle le premier des cinq sens., This article examines the importance of the sense of smell in Aubigné’s poetic depiction of the natural world. Although it is less important than our spiritual understanding of the life to come, in Calvinist teachings, smell is nonetheless essential to the binary conception of this earthly world, since the finest perfumes never exist without the accompanying threat of putrefaction. When Aubigné depicts the delights of the Second Coming, however, smell is the first sense evoked.
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
21. Hydromel, bière et vin dans la Gaule préromaine
- Author
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Laubenheimer, Fanette
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
On a beaucoup parlé ces dernières années des Gaulois buveurs de vin. Il est vrai que les importations des premiers vins en Gaule ont eu un franc succès rapporté avec détails par les auteurs grecs et latins. Cependant, si les Gaulois n’ont pas écrit sur leurs habitudes en matière de boisson, ils n’en disposaient pas moins de boissons alcoolisées traditionnelles que sont l’hydromel et la bière. Ces dernières ont laissé moins de traces que les amphores vinaires et pourtant elles étaient la base de ce que consommaient princes, chefs de guerre ou commun des mortels. À travers une enquête minutieuse fondée sur les textes, les vestiges archéologiques et l’iconographie, nous tenterons de restituer la part fondamentale de ces boissons injustement méconnues dans la consommation gauloise préromaine, pour mettre en lumière leur rôle prépondérant. The custom of consuming alcoholic beverages is already well-known in pre-Roman Gaul. Mead and beer are the first drinks of this type to be tasted by the Gauls, long before wine. Examples of mead consumption show the high rank of its consumers and the strong relationship between mead and power. Beer is drunk at the great feasts of pre-Roman Gaul but it is also widespread throughout society. It’s the national drink. Wine is first and foremost a drink imported from afar, exotic and expensive for the Gauls. Italian wine imports, which were very abundant in pre-Roman Gaul, were followed by first-rate Gallic wine production under the Empire.
- Published
- 2021
22. Munera ou profusiones : le cas des vases à onguent de la nécropole tardo-républicaine de Cumes
- Author
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Brkojewitsch, Gaël, Garnier, Nicolas, and Duday, Henri
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Les tombes tardo-républicaines et impériales de la nécropole de Cumes livrent de nombreuses traces de pratiques funéraires. Parmi ces gestes, décodés par une fouille méthodique, le dépôt de vases à parfum de type « unguentarium » est très fréquent. Cet article examine un corpus de cinq vases et un tube à libation provenant d’un contexte fouillé exhaustivement et dont la datation est bien assurée. Par le truchement de la chimie organique, une indentification du contenu de ces objets est proposées. Les analyses physico-chimiques mettent en évidence des traces de la triade vin/poix/graisse animale, des traces de vin, de jus de raisin et de composés parfois surprenants. En s’appuyant sur quelques sources littéraires et grâce à plusieurs contextes offrant des parallèles convaincants, plusieurs interprétations seront proposées pour expliquer la présence de cette diversité de marqueur chimique et pour identifier le contenu dans les réceptacles. The Late Republican and Imperial tombs of the necropolis of Cumae reveal many traces of funeral practices. These were decrypted through methodical excavations and include the votive deposition of perfume bottles (unguentaria) which is very common. This paper examines a corpus of five vessels and a libation tube originating from a thoroughly excavated context with secure dating. Using organic chemistry, an identification of the content of these objects is proposed. The physicochemical analyses reveal traces of the wine/pitch/animal fat triad, as well as traces of wine, grape juice and sometimes unexpected compounds. Based on literary sources and several other contexts providing convincing parallels, several interpretations are given in order to explain the presence of this diversity of chemical markers and to identify the contents of these receptacles.
- Published
- 2021
23. Il banchetto nuragico
- Author
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Perra, Mauro
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
In questo contributo l’autore analizza i modi di produzione e di consumo di alimenti di origine vegetale (cerali, legumi e frutti spontanei) e animale (allevamento e caccia) durante l’età nuragica (XVIII-VIII secolo a.C.). In this paper the author analyzes the production methods and the consumption of food of vegetable origin (cereals, legumes and natural fruits) and animal origin (breeding and hunting) during the nuragic age (18th-8th Century BC).
- Published
- 2021
24. Manger, boire, se parfumer pour l'éternité
- Author
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Ambrosini, Laura, Auxiette, Ginette, Barberan, Sébastien, Bel, Valérie, Bodiou, Lydie, Botto, Massimo, Briquel, Dominique, Brkojewitsch, Gaël, Brun, Jean-Pierre, Chardenon, Nathalie, Coen, Alessandra, Corbineau, Rémi, Cosentino, Rita, Del Mastro, Barbara, Dodinet, Élisabeth, Dubuis, Bastien, Duday, Henri, Forest, Vianney, Frère, Dominique, Fronteau, Gilles, Garnier, Nicolas, Gilotta, Fernando, Hugot, Laurent, Jaeggi-Richoz, Sandra, Jolivet, Vincent, Josset, David, Jung, Cécile, Laubenheimer, Fanette, Madrigali, Emanuele, Mazière, Florent, Meirano, Valeria, Micozzi, Marina, Millet, Émilie, Muntoni, Italo M., Munzi, Priscilla, Perra, Mauro, Pouzadoux, Claude, Ratsimba, Antoine, Roseau, Bertrand, Saurel, Marion, Séjalon, Pierre, Sirano, Francesco, Sirleto, Rosaria, Taborelli, Luigi, Tomay, Luigina, Toulemonde, Françoise, Usai, Alessandro, Verdin, Pascal, Frère, Dominique, Del Mastro, Barbara, Munzi, Priscilla, and Pouzadoux, Claude
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Les produits biologiques liés à l'alimentation, aux libations, aux fumigations, aux soins et à la beauté du corps jouent un rôle considérable dans la vie des peuples de la Méditerranée antique et ont aussi leur place dans les différentes étapes des rituels funéraires, de la préparation du corps jusqu'à la visite à la tombe. Produits périssables, ils ne laissent que peu de témoignages archéologiques sous la forme de restes fauniques et végétaux et de contenants en céramique, en métal ou en verre. Cet ouvrage collectif, riche de la collaboration d'une cinquantaine d'archéologues français, italiens et suisses, est la publication du programme MAGI, financé par l'ANR. Grâce à l'association de trois unités mixtes de recherche publiques et d'un laboratoire privé, le programme a mis en œuvre durant quatre ans, de 2013 à 2017, une approche transdisciplinaire combinant chimie organique et archéobotanique pour identifier les matériaux et produits biologiques en contexte funéraire en Gaule, en Italie péninsulaire et en Sardaigne, de la fin de l'âge du bronze jusqu'au début de l'époque romaine, et cerner leurs usages rituels.
- Published
- 2021
25. Les analyses organiques en contexte archéologique. Clés d’interprétation croisées de la chimie et de l’ethno-archéobotanique
- Author
-
Dodinet, Élisabeth and Garnier, Nicolas
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Les récipients, qu’ils soient en céramique, en pierre, en métal ou en verre, gardent toujours trace de leurs anciens contenus sous forme d’imprégnations ou de dépôts invisibles sur la paroi interne, invisible. L’extraction des constituants chimiques laissés par les contenus, par des méthodes chimiques adaptées, et leur analyse par des techniques performantes alliant chromatographie et spectrométrie de masse, permettent de définir des empreintes chimiques. Les connaissances acquises en phytochimie, pharmacognosie, biogéochimie, biologie végétale et animale, mais aussi par l’archéologie expérimentale permettent de relier les marqueurs anciens identifiés à leurs sources biologiques. Nous présentons ici un bilan des résultats obtenus dans le cadre du programme de recherche MAGI (2014-16), des connaissances issues des sources littéraires, de la botanique et de l’archéobotanique et des logiques utilisées pour l’identification des cires végétales et animales, des huiles végétales et des matériaux résineux. Containers, whether ceramic, stone, metal or glass, always retain a trace of their ancient contents, in the form of invisible deposits or impregnations on the internal walls. The extraction of the chemical constituents left by these contents, using fine-tuned, adapted chemical methods in phytochemistry, pharmacognosy, biogeochemistry, plant or animal biology, but also by experimental archaeology, allow us to link the identified ancient markers to their biological sources. We present here the results obtained within the MAGI project (2014-2016) for the identification of plant waxes, oils and resins. Using the literary, botanical and archaeobotanical sources for the candidate biological materials, we present the scientific rationale and arguments used for the interpretation of the markers.
- Published
- 2021
26. À propos de deux vases inscrits du Louvre. À la recherche d’une pharmacopée étrusque
- Author
-
Briquel, Dominique and Frère, Dominique
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Le musée du Louvre possède deux petits vases globulaires sans anses à col allongé, issus de la collection Campana et provenant vraisemblablement des fouilles entreprises par le marquis sur le site de Cerveteri, portant inscrits l’un le terme CUPRUM, l’autre le terme RUTA. Ces deux inscriptions ont été parfois attribuées à l’osque, souvent considérées comme fausses, tandis que les vases étaient datés d’une période tardive. Mais le caractère étrusque de ces documents ne fait pas de doute, leur authenticité ne paraît pas contestable, les vases – même s’ils relèvent d’une catégorie de céramique encore mal étudiée – remontent à l’époque archaïque. Les mots cuprum et ruta sont donc à considérer comme étrusques mais sont des mots d’emprunt, transcrivant les dénominations grecques du henné et de la rue. Ces deux vases ont dû contenir des produits liquides ayant pour base ces deux plantes. Des analyses biomoléculaires, menées en novembre 2011 dans le cadre du programme Perhamo/MAGI, ont permis d’apporter quelques précisions sur les contenus de ces vases. Ils sont formés d’une base grasse composée, pour l’un, de graisse animale (celui avec inscription RUTA) et, pour l’autre, d’huile végétale (avec un produit laitier et de l’oléorésine de conifère). La rue représentait le principe actif d’un liniment tandis que le henné a sans doute servi à la fabrication d’une huile médicinale faisant office d’embrocation. On s’interrogera ici sur la signification de ces deux produits, connus pour leur usage médicinal, dans la tombe où ils avaient été placés – puisqu’il est hors de doute que les deux vases ont été trouvés dans une tombe et, de facture identique, ont appartenu à un même mobilier funéraire. This study concerns two Etruscan vessels from the Campana collection in the Louvre Museum. The importance of both small lekythoi of the 5th century derives from the original and unusual painted inscription that allows the identification of their original contents. For each vessel, the name of a plant provides information about its function: cuprum (henna) for the first and ruta (herb of grace) for the second. A multidisciplinary approach, combining ceramological and epigraphic research with ORA (Organic Residue Analyses), increases our understanding of this category of micro-containers. Usually regarded as perfume bottles, these lekythoi were in reality used for a medicinal purpose.
- Published
- 2021
27. Dauniens et Samnites. La tombe du guerrier de Chiancone (Pietramontecorvino, Foggia) entre habitat et espaces funéraires
- Author
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Muntoni, Italo M. and Garnier, Nicolas
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Si presentano i risultati delle indagini di archeologia preventiva condotte dalla Soprintendenza Archeologia della Puglia, tra 2012 e 2014 in occasione della realizzazione di un impianto eolico, in località Monte Chiancone nel territorio del comune di Pietramontecorvino (FG), dove sono state messe in luce diverse evidenze archeologiche pertinenti ad un abitato daunio, localizzato su un pianoro sommitale posto presso le pendici del Monte Chiancone (265 m s.l.m.) a ridosso del torrente Triolo. Di rilevante importanza era stato, già nella prima campagna di saggi preventivi del 2012, il rinvenimento di una tomba (n. 1) a fossa terragna pertinente ad un guerriero, di eccezionale rilievo per la ricchezza del corredo inquadrabile nel V sec. a.C. e per la pregnanza ideologica e simbolica degli oggetti che lo compongono. Le indagini estensive, invece, svolte nel 2014 hanno permesso di mettere in luce un nucleo insediativo di età daunia, in cui si inserisce anche questa sepoltura, occupato tra la fine del VI e il IV sec. a.C., con diverse evidenze, sia in rapporto all’architettura domestica, che in relazione alla dimensione funeraria. Dall’analisi del corredo della tomba del guerriero, condotto anche nell’ambito del Progetto MAGI, appare evidente e caratterizzante il consumo del vino rosso e bianco, evidente richiamo all’ideologia del banchetto, a cui si associa il riferimento al consumo delle carni, gestito da un elemento di spicco all’interno del gruppo di appartenenza, che si connota appunto come guerriero. Evidente, in questo, appare la penetrazione di elementi allogeni (dalla posizione supina dell’inumato, alla prevalenza del vasellame in impasto a scapito di quello in argilla depurata dipinta) in un’area tradizionalmente afferente al territorio daunio, ma situata nell’estremo settore settentrionale dello stesso, pertanto, già proiettata verso le valli fluviali interne che collegano con l’attuale Molise e con la Campania settentrionale interna, il Sannio dunque, della piena età storica. Rescue archaeology carried out by the Soprintendenza Archeologia della Puglia, between 2012 and 2014, prior to the construction of a wind power plant, in the locality of Monte Chiancone in the territory of Pietramontecorvino (FG) have brought to light various archaeological materials pertaining to a Daunian settlement, located on a summit plateau close to the slopes of Monte Chiancone (265 m) at the edge of the Triolo torrent. A remarkably important discovery already made during the first rescue campaign in 2012 was a ground tomb (n. 1) belonging to a warrior. It is of exceptional interest due to the wealth of the assemblage dated to the 5th century BC and to the ideological and symbolic significance of its goods. The extensive investigations carried out in 2014 have made it possible to uncover a settlement nucleus of the Daunian period, which this burial also relates to, occupied between the end of the 6th and 4th century BC, with different archaeological materials connected to both the domestic architecture and the funerary domain. The analysis of the assemblage found in the warrior tomb indicates clearly and distinctively the consumption of red and white wine, an evident allusion to the banquet ideology, along with a reference to meat consumption, controlled by a leading man within the social structure, who is indeed identified as a warrior. What we see here is the penetration of allogenic elements (from the supine position of the inhumation, to the predominance of impasto pottery with respect to the painted ware made with fine clay) into an area that traditionally relates to the Daunian territory – but is located on the northernmost segment of it and thus projected towards the river valleys that connect with the present Molise Region and the inner areas of northern Campania, that is, the region of Samnium in historical times.
- Published
- 2021
28. L’insediamento nuragico di Sa Osa (Cabras - OR). Nuovi dati su materiali organici e analisi chimiche
- Author
-
Usai, Alessandro and Garnier, Nicolas
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
L’insediamento di Sa Osa dista due chilometri dall’attuale linea di costa e 500 metri dall’attuale corso del fiume Tirso. Lo scavo del 2008-2009 ha rivelato un insediamento nuragico senza nuraghe e quasi senza strutture murarie, di lunga durata (dal Bronzo Medio al Bronzo Finale-Primo Ferro), apparentemente precario, in realtà adattato all’ambiente instabile, anzi specializzato nello sfruttamento delle risorse locali. Nei pozzi del settore meridionale la falda acquifera superficiale ha creato un ambiente favorevole alla conservazione dei resti organici. Soprattutto il pozzo N (Bronzo Recente) ha restituito pesci, ossa animali, frammenti di legno e sughero grezzo e lavorato, semi d’uva, fico, melone, grano duro, fave e prugne selvatiche; l’uva appare in avanzato stadio di domesticazione. Resti vegetali simili sono stati rinvenuti anche nei pozzi U e V (Bronzo Medio), in cui i semi d’uva hanno un aspetto prevalentemente selvatico. Analisi chimiche organiche sono state condotte su alcune ceramiche provenienti dal pozzo N. Le pareti interne dei vasi hanno mostrato forti concentrazioni di marcatori vegetali, sia di preparazioni a base di piante o di conservazione di vegetali, sia di oli estratti. L’analisi ha anche contribuito a determinare la funzione di alcune possibili lucerne a piede; su alcune sono state identificate tracce di combustibili oleosi degradati per riscaldamento, che confermano l’ipotesi delle lucerne, mentre su un’altra gli acidi biliari presenti orientano verso un utilizzo legato agli organi digestivi. The settlement of Sa Osa lies two kilometres away from the present coastline and 500 metres from the present flow of the river Tirso. The excavation carried out in the years 2008-2009 discovered a nuragic settlement without a nuraghe and almost without any structures, occupied from the Middle to the Late Bronze Age or Early Iron Age. The site seemed precarious but actually adapted to the changing environment and even specialized in the exploitation of the local resources. In the southern sector of the site, the superficial aquifer created an environment inside the wells that was favourable to the preservation of the organic remains. Well N (Late Bronze Age) in particular revealed remains of fishes and animal bones, fragments of raw and carved wood and cork, grape seeds, figs, melons, durum wheat, broad beans and wild plums; grapes appear in an advanced stage of domestication. Similar vegetal remains have been recovered from wells U and V (Middle Bronze Age), where the grape seeds look mainly wild. Organic chemical analyses were carried out on some pottery from well N. The internal walls of the vessels showed strong concentrations of vegetal markers – plant-based preparations or for vegetal conservation and extracted oils. The analysis also helped determine the function of some possible foot-lamps; on some of these traces of oily fuels were identified, eroded through heating, which confirm the hypothesis of the lamps, while the biliary acids present on another suggest use connected to the digestive organs.
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- 2021
29. Archéologie du lait : le cas du lait médicinal
- Author
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Bodiou, Lydie, Frère, Dominique, and Jaeggi-Richoz, Sandra
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Malgré un statut ambigu, aux frontières des mondes sauvage et domestiqué, le lait est utilisé dans l’arsenal des prescriptions des médecins antiques, particulièrement ceux de la collection hippocratique (ve av.-iie apr. J.C). Plusieurs types de lait sont prescrits. Le lait de vache et d’ânesse le plus communément mais aussi le lait de femme – particulièrement dans les recettes gynécologiques – et de manière plus anecdotique, le lait de brebis, de chèvre, de jument ou de chienne. Le lait est rarement prescrit seul, souvent délayé, agrémenté de miel, de sel, il est recommandé mêlé à d’autres ingrédients minéraux et végétaux ou alors en traitement unique, sous la forme de « cure de lait ». On s’interrogera sur ces prescriptions qui usent de ces laits, sous quelles formes, pour quels usages et avec quelles intentions curatives ou symboliques, notamment dans le traitement des maladies féminines. Nous verrons que ces recettes se trouvent à mi-chemin entre la prescription médicale et le remède de « bonnes femmes ».L’emploi thérapeutique du lait est toujours en vigueur chez les médecins de l’époque romaine. Ces derniers évoquent un vase « en forme de sein » permettant d’administrer du lait mélangé à des malades comme à des enfants. L’existence de petits récipients appelés communément par les archéologues « biberons » seraient-ils l’incorporation de ce vase, un moyen mis au point par les potiers et verriers antiques pour palier au lait d’une nourrice ou administrer une recette thérapeutique ? Rare témoin de la représentation de cet objet énigmatique, un relief d’époque augustéenne faisant référence à l’âge d’or et aux mythes de fondation des villes semble le suggérer. Despite its ambiguous status, hovering on the borders of the wild and domesticated worlds, milk was used by ancient physicians in their portfolio of prescriptions, particularly those in the Hippocratic collection (5th century BC to 2nd century AD). Several kinds of milk were prescribed. The most common being cow’s or donkey’s milk, but women’s milk was also employed – particularly in gynaecological recipes – and, more anecdotally, sheep’s, goat’s, mare’s or bitch’s milk. Milk was rarely prescribed on its own, often diluted or mixed with honey or salt, it was recommended either mixed with other mineral and vegetable ingredients or as a sole treatment when in the form of a “milk cure”. This paper questions who used these various types of milk, in what forms, for what purposes and with which curative or symbolic intentions, particularly in relation to the treatment of women’s ailments. These recipes are in fact situated halfway between a medical prescription and an “old wive’s” remedy.The therapeutic use of milk continues among doctors in Roman times. The latter brings to mind a “breast shaped” vessel which could be used to administer mixed milk to patients and children alike. Could the existence of such small containers, commonly referred to by archaeologists as “feeding bottles”, be the introduction of this vessel, a means developed by ancient potters and glassmakers to make up for the lack of a nurse’s milk or to administer a therapeutic recipe? A rare testament to the representation of this enigmatic object, a relief from the Augustan period referring to the Golden Age and the myths of the foundation of cities seems to suggest so.
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- 2021
30. Διονύσιος e i suoi medicamenta: questioni di metodo
- Author
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Taborelli, Luigi
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
La ricerca che riguarda la produzione e il commercio dei medicamenta nelle regioni attorno al bacino centro-orientale del Mediterraneo si basa essenzialmente sullo studio dei bolli impressi nel caso dei microcontenitori ceramici oppure su quello di brevi iscrizioni a rilievo ricavate da matrice bivalve nel caso dei microcontenitori metallici (realizzati quasi sempre in piombo). Tra i medicamenta viene qui approfondito il caso del λύκιον, un pregiato collirio oculare decantato dalle fonti. In particolare si è scelto di analizzare il caso del produttore Διονύσιος, un farmacopòla o forse un medico, perché si è rivelato il più problematico nell’ambito della Ricerca. Infatti non sappiamo se questo nome che ricorre su alcuni bolli e iscrizioni di microcontenitori sia da riferire a un solo personaggio o a omonimi. Del resto tali esemplari non sono coerenti tra loro e documentano produzioni seriali e partite di contenitori diverse tra loro di cui, oltretutto, non possiamo conoscere le dimensioni numeriche. Inoltre non riusciamo a delimitare la durata delle produzioni di Διονύσιος e neppure i confini della diffusione commerciale dei suoi prodotti. Quanto alla cronologia le generiche indicazioni di cui disponiamo suggeriscono per il complesso degli esemplari esaminati un periodo compreso attorno al III sec. a. c. Il caso di Διονύσιος tuttavia, proprio per le questioni che suscita può essere considerato emblematico nell’ambito della specifica Ricerca perché ne evidenzia i limiti attuali e costringe ad adeguare continuamente strumenti e metodi da adottare e da adattare per consentire il suo ulteriore sviluppo. The themes relating to the production and trade of medicamenta in the regions around the Mediterranean are discussed through the analysis of a few examples of stamps impressed on ceramic micro-containers. Among these productions, that of λύκιον, precious eye-drops mainly used for curing eye diseases, has yet to be defined, but the wealth and quality of the data make it the most striking case. The name of the pharmakopôles, or perhaps the doctor, Διονύσιος is known among the makers of λύκιον. We do not know whether this name refers to one person or more than one person of the same name. We know the productions, attested by a few examples, which are not always coherent, but we do not know their size or how long they lasted, or the precise confines of the area in which they were used. As for the chronology, we only have generic indications, due to the uncertain finds contexts, which date the small group of artefacts examined here to the 3rd century B.C. This paper asks whether the examples can be attributed to one pharmakopôles, but the conclusion admits that uncertainties remain, even though one asks oneself how many pharmakopôles named Διονύσιος could have been active in this specific production sector, in a particular geographic area and in a relatively short period. The case of Διονύσιος, with the questions and perplexities it raises, is representative of a set of problems that merit further investigation, adopting and adapting a methodology that is still in the process of being perfected.
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- 2021
31. Le anforette etrusche di età tardo-arcaica dalla necropoli esquilina (Roma): analisi del contenuto
- Author
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Ambrosini, Laura
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Il caso studio riguarda alcune anforette etrusche tardo-arcaiche, di altezza compresa tra gli 8 e i 10 cm circa e capacità di 100 e 150 ml, riferibili al Gruppo Copenhagen ABc 1059 rinvenute a Roma nell’antica necropoli esquilina nelle tombe 3 e 12 di Piazza Vittorio scavate nel 2002 dall’allora Soprintendenza Archeologica di Roma. E’ stato possibile evidenziare due sottogruppi con caratteristiche ben distinte: il primo, di probabile produzione ceretana e tarquiniese-vulcente (anche se non si escludono altri centri di produzione minori), presenta fasce sul corpo e un’eventuale decorazione accessoria (palmetta sul collo, linguette sulla spalla, raggiera alla base); il secondo, riferibile all’ambito tarquiniese (o anche vulcente?), presenta due palmette erette sui due lati del corpo e due pendule al di sotto delle anse. La cronologia dei due sottogruppi, in base ai contesti noti, appare circoscritta alla fine del VI-inizi del V sec. a.C. Tenendo esclusivamente conto della morfologia e della metrologia del vaso, è stata avanzata l’ipotesi che le anforette fossero state utilizzate come unguentari. Destinata a personaggi femminili e deposta a diretto contatto con il corpo (lungo il fianco sinistro o presso i piedi; talora anche all’interno del loculo parietale) l’anforetta era considerata un oggetto di uso personale, piuttosto legato alle pratiche svolte nel corso della cerimonia funebre per ungere la salma o il corpo dei partecipanti. Nello studio si discutono i risultati delle indagini di gas cromatografia ad alta risoluzione con spettrometria di massa realizzate al fine di indagare il contenuto di questi piccoli vasi. This case study concerns some late-archaic Etruscan amphorae, with a height between 8 and 10 cm and a capacity of 100 to 150 ml, related to the Group Copenhagen ABc 1059, found in Rome in the ancient Esquiline necropolis in tombs 3 and 12 of Piazza Vittorio, excavated in 2002 by the formerly Soprintendenza Archeologica di Roma. These amphorae can be divided into two subgroups with distinct characteristics: the first, probably of Caeretan and Tarquinian-Vulcian production (although other minor production centres are not excluded), has bands on the body and a possible accessory decoration (a palmette on the neck, tongues on the shoulder, radial pattern at the base); the second, connected to the Tarquinian area (or also Vulcian?), has two palmettes on both sides of the body and two below the handles. The chronology of the two subgroups, according to known contexts, is the end of the 6th to the beginning of the 5th century B.C. Taking into account the morphology and metrology of the vessel, I suggested in 2009 that these small amphorae were used for ointments. Intended for women and placed in direct contact with the body (along the left side or near the feet; sometimes even inside the parietal niche) the amphora was considered an object of personal use, linked to the practices carried out during the funeral ceremony to anoint the corpse or the bodies of the participants. The study discusses the results of high-resolution gas chromatography investigations with mass spectrometry carried out in order to investigate the contents of these small vessels.
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- 2021
32. Le dépôt funéraire de Lavau (Aube, France) : une nouvelle évocation du banquet chez les élites celtiques du ve siècle avant notre ère
- Author
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Dubuis, Bastien, Frère, Dominique, Garnier, Nicolas, Josset, David, and Millet, Émilie
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
La tombe de Lavau (Aube, France), fouillée par l’Inrap dans l’hiver 2014-2015, était protégée par un très vaste monument funéraire, associant un large fossé à un tumulus de 40 m de diamètre. La sépulture, restée inviolée, est celle d’un personnage de très haut rang, ayant vécu dans la première moitié du ve siècle av. n.è., inhumé avec de riches parures sur la caisse d’un char à deux roues. Placé dans l’angle nord-est de la tombe, un dépôt de vaisselle rassemble une dizaine d’objets : chaudron, ciste à cordons, bassins, oenochoé en bronze et oenochoé attique, passoire, cuillère et gobelet en argent et or. Dans le chaudron, les analyses chimiques ont permis d’identifier de la poix de conifère, du vin rouge et de cire d’abeille. Tapissé de poix, le chaudron a donc sans doute contenu un vin miellé. La nature de la boisson et l’usage nécessaire d’un accessoire filtre, la nature et le sens donné aux décors des objets (Achéloos du chaudron, scène de banquet figurant Dionysos sur l’oenochoé grecque, serpent cornu de la passoire), la nature exogène des pièces de vaisselle ou des décors ou encore leur agencement particulier dans la tombe (propice à évoquer les scènes de banquet peints dans les tombeaux étrusques) sont de nature à nous laisser percevoir une très bonne connaissance de l’élite celtique des pratiques de commensalité méditerranéennes (banquet et symposium). The tomb of Lavau (Aube, France), excavated by Inrap in the winter of 2014-2015, was protected by a very large funerary monument, associating a large ditch with a 40 m-diameter mound. The burial, which remains untouched, is that of a very high-ranking person, who lived in the first half of the 5th century BC, buried with rich ornaments on a two-wheeled chariot. Placed in the northeast corner of the tomb, a tableware collection comprises a dozen objects: cauldron, cistus with cords, basins, bronze oenochoe and attic oenochoe, colander, spoon and cup in silver and gold. In the cauldron, chemical analyzes identified conifer pitch, red wine and beeswax. With a pitch lining, the cauldron probably contained a honeyed wine. The nature of the drink and the necessary use of a filter accessory, the nature and the meaning given to the decorations of the objects (Acheloos from the cauldron, banquet scene depicting Dionysus on the Greek oenochoe, horned serpent from the colander), the exogenous nature of the dishes or decorations or their particular arrangement in the tomb (evoking the banquet scenes painted on Etruscan tombs) increase our understanding of Celtic elite practices of Mediterranean commensality (banquet and symposium).
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- 2021
33. Riti alimentari nella Sardegna punica: il caso di Pani Loriga
- Author
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Botto, Massimo, Frère, Dominique, Garnier, Nicolas, and Madrigali, Emanuele
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Scopo del seguente contributo è quello di presentare alla comunità scientifica internazionale i risultati delle recenti indagini all’abitato punico di Pani Loriga, nella Sardegna sud-occidentale. Gli scavi avviati dal CNR sul versante settentrionale della collina hanno messo in luce un grande edificio polifunzionale composto da oltre dieci vani, il cui impianto originale risale alla fine del VI-inizi del V sec. a.C. La struttura, ancora in corso di scavo, presenta alcune situazioni particolarmente pertinenti alle tematiche affrontate nell’ambito del Convegno MAGI. Infatti, nel vano 7, è stato messo in luce una specie di pozzetto chiuso da una lastra di scisto, sul fondo del quale sono state rinvenute ossa animali e un ritaglio di piombo pertinenti molto verosimilmente ad un rituale di fondazione. Le ossa sono state disposte con cura all’interno della struttura e grazie all’analisi di Jacopo De Grossi è possibile affermare che si tratta di parti selezionate di diverse specie animali: sono documentati gli ovicaprini, il bue e il cervo. Nel vano 1, interpretato come un sacello, alla base della banchina sulla quale dovevano essere deposti gli ex voto sono state recuperate ossa animali pertinenti a sacrifici o a resti di pasto. De Grossi ha individuato resti di ovicaprini, bue, maiale e cervo. Questi dati possono essere integrati con quelli relativi alle analisi biochimiche condotte da Nicolas Garnier sui contenuti di numerosi vasi rinvenuti nell’attiguo vano 2, dove molto verosimilmente dovevano essere confezionati cibi e bevande da consumare nel corso di cerimonie pubbliche. The purpose of this paper is to offer the scientific community the results of some recent investigations at the Punic settlement of Pani Loriga, located in south-western Sardinia. The excavations by the CNR (Italian National Research Council) on the northern slope of Pani Loriga hill have revealed a large building containing numerous rooms, whose original layout dates back to the late 6th-early 5th centuries BC. This building, still being excavated, presents some contexts relevant to the conference themes. For example, investigations in Room 7 have brought to light a foundation deposit made up of selected parts of different animals: sheep, cattle and deer are all documented. Furthermore in Room 1, interpreted as a sacellum, other animal bones used for sacrifices or remains of a meal were found at the base of a bench. These data have been added to that relating to the biochemical analyses (carried out by Nicolas Garnier) on the contents of a number of vessels found in rooms where food and drink were prepared. Among the remains identified, an important role was played by wine, both red and white, which was produced and traded at Pani Loriga.
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- 2021
34. Réflexions interdisciplinaires autour des pratiques funéraires gauloises en Languedoc (viie-iie siècles av. J.-C.) : l’apport de la chimie organique
- Author
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Bel, Valérie, Garnier, Nicolas, Barberan, Sébastien, Chardenon, Nathalie, Forest, Vianney, Jung, Cécile, Mazière, Florent, Ratsimba, Antoine, and Séjalon, Pierre
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Cinquante-et-une analyses de chimie organique réalisées en contexte funéraire sur des vases, des os et de la terre de bûcher, ont permis de mettre en évidence l’existence de divers produits alimentaires utilisés lors des funérailles. Cette étude a pour objectif de discuter de leur place et des gestes qu’ils sous-entendent. Les tombes prises en compte sont toutes à crémation (bûcher ou ossuaire). Elles sont situées en Languedoc et sont datées entre le VIIe et le IIe siècle av. J.-C. Fifty-one chemical analyses (organic chemistry) were performed on pot, bones and pyre soil. For the first time, they highlight the use of a large variety of food products during the funeral ceremony. The aim of the study is to discuss the place and the gestures implied. All the tombs contain burned remains (from a pyre or in an ossuary) and are located in Languedoc: they date between the 7th and the 2nd century BC.
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- 2021
35. Introduction. Manger, boire, offrir pour l’éternité en Gaule et Italie préromaines
- Author
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Frère, Dominique, Munzi, Priscilla, and Pouzadoux, Claude
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Les produits biologiques liés à l’alimentation, aux libations, aux fumigations et aux soins du corps ont de tout temps joué un rôle considérable dans les échanges culturels et économiques. D’origine naturelle, ils sont porteurs d’une forte identité symbolique et parfois sacrée. Issus d’une technique plus ou moins complexe de transformation et de conservation, ils affichent le savoir-faire d’un groupe. Représentatifs de pratiques alimentaires, religieuses, médicinales et cosmétiques particuliè...
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- 2021
36. Offrandes alimentaires en Italie du Sud : le témoignage des terres cuites en milieu funéraire
- Author
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Meirano, Valeria
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Dans le monde grec ainsi que dans les contextes indigènes de l’Italie méridionale, la coroplathie joue un rôle dans le rituel funéraire, soit dans la composition des mobiliers, soit au cours des cérémonies qui avaient lieu durant et après l’enterrement. Malgré leur occurrence limitée dans la majorité des nécropoles par rapport à d’autres offrandes, plusieurs recherches récentes ont mis en évidence la façon dont ces objets contribuaient à la « construction » de l’identité du défunt, surtout en relation avec le genre et les classes d’âge. Parmi ces artefacts, les reliefs et les figurines portant des offrandes alimentaires, ainsi que les petits modèles reproduisant des aliments, constituent un sujet d’étude à part entière. Associée aux données relevant des realia et à d’autres sources documentaires – telles que les textes littéraires et épigraphiques, l’iconographie véhiculée par la céramique figurée, etc. –, l’étude de ces objets contribue à éclairer un aspect important de l’univers lié à la mort, grâce aussi à la comparaison avec la « nourriture symbolique » attestée dans les espaces sacrés. L’article propose quelques réflexions sur la présence de ces terres cuites dans les nécropoles grecques et indigènes de l’Italie du Sud, visant à saisir la façon dont ces offrandes participaient de la stratégie funéraire et de la performance rituelle, ainsi que les différentes valeurs revêtues selon leurs contextes spécifiques. Coroplastics play a crucial role in ancient funerary rituals, both within the setting of grave furnishings and in the ceremonies taking place during and after the burial. Notwithstanding their limited occurrence in the majority of Greek necropoleis in comparison to other offerings, recent studies have nevertheless demonstrated how these objects contributed to the “construction” of the identity of the deceased, with particular reference to gender and age-classes. Among these artefacts, the clay models imitating fruits and food, as well as the reliefs and figurines bearing these kinds of offerings, constitute a specific case-study. Together with the rare realia retrieved from tombs and the data coming from other documentary sources – literary and epigraphic evidence, iconographies attested on figured pottery, etc. – the study of these items contributes to our understanding of an important aspect of the funerary sphere, further cemented by comparisons with the ‘symbolic food’ attested in sacred contexts. The paper provides some reflections about the presence of these terracottas in necropoleis of Western Greece and of indigenous areas in southern Italy. The aim is to investigate the way these offerings participated in the funerary strategy and ritual performance, and the different meanings they assumed according to their specific contexts.
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- 2021
37. Osservazioni sulle offerte alimentari nelle necropoli di Capua tra IV e III secolo a.C
- Author
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Sirano, Francesco and Sirleto, Rosaria
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Le necropoli dell’antica Capua sono una fonte di informazione privilegiata per gli studi campani come dimostrano le principali pubblicazioni dedicate all’argomento che riguardano il periodo compreso tra l’età del Ferro e la fine del IV secolo a.C. Per il IV e III secolo a.C. i sepolcreti posti a oriente della città antica, lungo l’Appia, costituiscono il punto di partenza di questo contributo, frutto di scoperte effettuate tra il 2012 e il 2013. Saranno analizzati principalmente gli aspetti relativi alle offerte alimentari nella prospettiva: a) della presenza e delle associazioni con forme vascolari e strumenti; b) dei risultati delle analisi compiute nell’ambito del progetto MAGI; c) delle testimonianze iconografiche; d) del più ampio contesto culturale di Capua tra IV e III secolo a.C. The necropolis of ancient Capua is a privileged source of information for Campania studies. This is demonstrated by the main publications dedicated to the subject that cover a period between the Iron Age and the end of the 4th century BC. Regarding the 4th and 3rd centuries BC, the necropolis located on the eastern side of the ancient city, along the Appia Way, is the starting point of this investigation, the result of discoveries made between 2012 and 2013. The study presented here analyzes the food offerings with regards to: a) the presence and association with vascular forms and instruments; b) the outcome of the analyzes carried out within the MAGI project; c) the iconographic evidence; d) the broader cultural context of Capua between the 4th and 3rd centuries B.C.
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- 2021
38. Archéologie des produits de la ruche : le cas des contenants archéologiques
- Author
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Frère, Dominique and Corbineau, Rémi
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
L’archéologie des produits de la ruche est un domaine scientifique qui reste encore à développer. Hormis quelques très rares cas de découvertes de rayons de ruches et de cire, les produits de la ruche ne laissent habituellement pas de traces matérielles visibles. La palynologie ainsi que la chimie biomoléculaire peuvent apporter des indices précieux mais qui sont toujours difficiles à interpréter. La concentration de pollens de telle ou telle plante indique-t-elle la présence de miel, d’hydromel ou peut-il y avoir une autre explication ? La cire d’abeille révélée par les analyses chimiques est-elle révélatrice du contenu du vase (cire, miel, hydromel), de l’imperméabilisation de ses parois internes ou de l’existence d’un bouchon ? The purpose of this study is not an overall presentation of the archaeology of honeybees in antiquity but a focus on the identification and interpretation of the products of the hive in archaeological containers within funerary contexts. The famous case of the Hochdorf caldron, which is well preserved and studied, is a beautiful but unusual example that overcomes the usual difficulties understanding the use of honey and mead in funerary rituals. Case studies with both botanical and chemical (ORA) approaches are presented and discussed to explain how difficult it is to interpret the archaeological meaning of data related to products of the hive.
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- 2021
39. Du contenu et de l’apparence : l’analyse des céramiques de la tombe à char de Warcq « La Sauce » dans les Ardennes (iie siècle av. J.-C.)
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Saurel, Marion, Fronteau, Gilles, Garnier, Nicolas, Roseau, Bertrand, Verdin, Pascal, Auxiette, Ginette, and Toulemonde, Françoise
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riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Les céramiques de la tombe à char de Warcq « La Sauce » (Ardennes, France), localisée dans la vallée de la Meuse et datée du iie siècle av. J.-C., ont fait l’objet d’une étude des techniques, formes et traces, combinée à des analyses biochimiques et à la recherche de phytolithes. Les résultats de ces travaux ont été croisés pour une réflexion sur le contenu, la fonction et les usages, antérieurs ou contemporains de la sépulture, des cinq vases composant le service. En intégrant l’environnement de la tombe, ils offrent matière à une diversité de sujets : l’omniprésence du millet, les pratiques liées à la consommation des boissons ou le rôle symbolique de la vaisselle et en particulier de la pièce maîtresse du dépôt lié à l’alimentation, le vase paré de motifs à l’étain, sans doute à l’occasion des funérailles. Outre le caractère singulier de l’assemblage provenant d’une tombe aristocratique hors norme, se dégagent également certaines spécificités d’une aire culturelle encore mal connue ancrée au cœur de la Gaule Belgique, en lisière sud-ouest de l’Arduenna Silva. The ceramics of the Warcq chariot tomb “La Sauce” (Ardennes, France), located in the Meuse valley and dated to the 2nd century BC, were the subject of a study of techniques, forms and traces, combined with biochemical analysis and the search for phytoliths. The results were compared, looking at content, and the function and uses, previous or contemporary to the burial, of the five vessels in the set. By integrating the question of the environment of the tomb, various subjects are thus discussed: the omnipresence of millet; the practices linked to the consumption of drinks or the symbolic role of the dishes and in particular the centerpiece deposit for food; and the vase adorned with pewter motifs, probably at the time of the funeral. In addition to the singular character of the assemblage from an extraordinary aristocratic tomb, we also see certain features of a still poorly known cultural area anchored in the heart of Belgic Gaul, on the southwest edge of the Arduenna Silva.
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- 2021
40. Rituel funéraire et offrandes alimentaires à Caudium et à Saticula
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Tomay, Luigina, Dodinet, Élisabeth, and Garnier, Nicolas
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Caudium e Saticula – le odierne città di Montesarchio e Sant’Agata dei Goti –, rientranti in antico nel Sannio Caudino, hanno restituito un’ampia documentazione funeraria. Per Caudium le attestazioni più antiche si datano già nella prima Età del Ferro, mentre a Saticula le prime testimonianze risalgono agli inizi del VII sec. a.C. Al fine di inquadrare i due insediamenti viene presentata dapprima una sintesi sullo stato degli studi e delle ricerche provenienti dai due siti, con particolare riguardo alla documentazione funeraria, soffermandosi poi sui risultati delle analisi dei resti organici rinvenuti nelle tombe selezionate nell’ambito del progetto MAGI. Per Caudium la scelta è ricaduta su quattro sepolture, databili al V e al IV sec. a.C., mentre per Saticula su due tombe risalenti al IV sec. a.C. Costante in entrambi i siti è apparsa la ricorrenza di alcuni elementi, primo fra tutti il vino, a conferma della centralità nel rituale funerario del modello del simposio. Tuttavia, interessanti differenze emergono nella maggiore varietà delle sostanze rinvenute all’interno dei vasi di Saticula, che hanno consentito di ipotizzare la ricorrenza di preparazioni alimentari più complesse. Nonostante che, rispetto a contesti d’abitato o santuariali, quelli funerari rivestano un carattere particolare per la loro accezione fortemente simbolica, indubbio è il contributo che questo tipo di indagini possono apportare agli studi sul costume funerario delle società antiche, soprattutto ampliando in futuro il campione sottoposto ad analisi. In Montesarchio and in Sant’Agata de’ Goti, ancient Caudium and Saticula, which belonged to Sannio Caudino, revealed two large necropolis. In Caudium the oldest records date back to the early Iron Age, while in Saticula the first evidence dates to the early seventh century B.C. In order to define the two settlements, this paper presents a summary of our knowledge about the two sites, analysing above all the funeral documentation. The results of the analysis of the organic remains, found in the tombs selected for the MAGI project are then discussed. Four burials from Caudium and two from Saticula, dating from the fifth and fourth centuries B.C., were selected. Some elements appeared on both sites: wine, confirming the centrality of the symposium model in the funerary ritual. However, interesting differences emerge in the wide variety of elements found inside the Saticula pots, which suggests more complex food preparations. Compared to inhabited or sanctuary contexts, funerary ones have a strong symbolic meaning, but this type of investigation could certainly make a significant contribution to studies about funerary rituals of ancient societies, especially using greater sample sizes in future.
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- 2021
41. Les représentations d’offrandes alimentaires en contexte funéraire en Étrurie
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Hugot, Laurent
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Nombre de réceptacles qui composent les mobiliers funéraires étaient liés à l’utilisation de substances animales et végétales pour les besoins des rituels funéraires. Les recherches sur l’identification des matières et des produits progressent rapidement grâce à l’utilisation de techniques d’analyses toujours plus performantes. Toutefois, c’est par la confrontation des sources archéologiques et des représentations d’offrandes alimentaires en contexte funéraire qu’il est possible de mieux comprendre l’utilisation des aliments lors des funérailles et des visites successives aux défunts. Many of the receptacles that form funeral furniture were linked to the use of animal and plant substances for the needs of funeral rituals. Research on the identification of materials and products is progressing rapidly thanks to more effective scientific analysis. By combining the archaeological sources and representations of food offerings in a funeral context, we are able to greatly advance our understanding of the use of food during funerals and subsequent visits to the deceased.
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- 2021
42. Le offerte di Cerveteri dal VII secolo a.C. all’età romana
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Coen, Alessandra, Cosentino, Rita, Gilotta, Fernando, Micozzi, Marina, Frère, Dominique, and Garnier, Nicolas
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riti religiosi ,alimentation (histoire) ,alimentazione (storia) ,antichità ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Gallia ,religion ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,produits biologiques - Abstract
Dans le cadre d’une collaboration entre les programmes ANR Perhamo et MAGI d’une part et, d’autre part, la Soprintendenza archeologica del Lazio e dell’Etruria meridionale et le Museo archeolologico nazionale Cerite, ont été organisées plusieurs campagnes d’analyses biomoléculaires de contenus de céramiques et flacons en verre appartenant à plusieurs contextes funéraires de Cerveteri, de l’époque archaïque à l’époque augustéenne. Deux stratégies de prélèvements ont été adoptées. Pour la première, ce sont des aryballes et alabastres corinthiens, étrusco-corinthiens et en bucchero nero de tombes archaïques de la nécropole de Monte Abatone fouillées par la Fondation Lerici, qui ont été sélectionnés par Alessandra Coen, Fernando Gilotta et Marina Micozzi, afin de discerner les caractéristiques générales des huiles parfumées et de relever d’éventuelles différences de contenus selon les ateliers. Pour la seconde, c’est du matériel archéologique issu de fouilles récentes des nécropoles de Monte Abatone et de la Banditaccia organisées par la Soprintendenza per i Beni archeologici dell’Etruria Meridionale et dirigées par Rita Cosentino, qui a fait l’objet de prélèvements. L’étude des contenus de céramiques et verres d’époques archaïque, hellénistique et romaine, permet de cerner l’utilisation de substances biologiques dans le rituel funéraire et de comprendre la fonction des différentes catégories de conteneurs, qu’il s’agisse d’une olpé étrusco-corinthienne archaïque ou d’une olpé à vernis noir hellénistique, d’un skyphos en bucchero nero archaïque ou d’une coupelle à vernis noir hellénistique. Les différents ensembles funéraires seront présentés en détail afin de replacer les résultats d’analyses dans leurs contextes archéologiques et de proposer des interprétations qui permettent de comprendre la place des matériaux biologiques (vin, goudrons végétaux, huiles végétales et produits de la ruche) au sein des rituels funéraires. Il coinvolgimento della Soprintendenza per l’Etruria meridionale, poi del Lazio e dell’Etruria meridionale, in progetti di ricerca francesi per lo studio dei contenuti delle ceramiche antiche (Perhamo dal 2008 e dal 2013 MAGI) sono stati un’ottima occasione di collaborazione internazionale che ha permesso di ampliare le nostre conoscenze sugli aspetti economici e produttivi di una delle più importanti metropoli etrusche, Cerveteri. Sono stati analizzati unguentari, ma anche altre forme vascolari, provenienti da scavi recenti condotti da Rita Cosentino, in varie zone della necropoli della Banditaccia. Le analisi di un gruppo di unguentari ellenistici hanno ad es. permesso di sfatare la convinzione che essi fossero esclusivamente dei porta profumi. Il progetto è poi stato esteso anche ad un nucleo di aryballoi ed alabastra provenienti dalla necropoli di Monte Abatone, attualmente in studio da parte di un’équipe delle Università della Tuscia e Unicampania. Le analisi dei contenuti hanno dimostrato come nella maggioranza dei casi questi vasetti contenessero sostanze profumate e/o medicamentose, anche diverse, ma con delle componenti standard in quanto la base del profumo era ottenuta grazie alla tecnica dell’enfleurage sia a freddo che a caldo principalmente in oli vegetali e grassi animali. Si è a volte riscontrata anche la presenza di un prodotto lattiero, incorporato nella miscela al fine di conferirle una consistenza morbida, e di cenere con funzione detergente. Molto interessante il dato relativo alla presenza in numerosi casi di pece di conifera o catrame di betulla, piuttosto inusuali nei vasi greci ed etruschi, soprattutto in relazione ad unguentari. Queste resine, che dovevano essere utilizzate anche per l’impermeabilizzazione della superficie, sono state trovate sia in vasetti privi di altro contenuto, sia in associazione a grassi animali e vegetali, nonché vino, testimoniandone dunque la funzione rituale. The involvement of the Soprintendenza per l’Etruria meridionale, then Lazio and southern Etruria, in French research projects for the study of the contents of ancient ceramics (Perhamo from 2008 and MAGI project from 2013) was an excellent opportunity for international collaboration. This has enabled us to expand our knowledge on the economic and productive aspects of one of the most important Etruscan metropolis, Cerveteri. We analyzed unguentaria, but also other vessel forms, from recent excavations conducted by Rita Cosentino, in various areas of the Banditaccia necropolis. The analysis of a group of Hellenistic unguentaria has dispelled the belief that they were exclusively perfume holders. The project was then extended to a nucleus of aryballoi and alabastra from the necropolis of Monte Abatone, currently being studied by a team from the Universities of Tuscia and Unicampania. The analysis of the contents showed that in the majority of cases these vessls contained perfumed and/or medicinal substances, different, but with standard components. The perfume base is in fact often fat, obtained using the enfleurage technique, both cold and hot, mainly with vegetable oils and animal fats. A milk product was also found, incorporated in the mixture in order to give it a soft consistency, and ash with a detergent function. A very interesting discovery was the presence in numerous cases of conifer pitch or birch tar, rather unusual in Greek and Etruscan vessels, especially in relation to unguentaria. These resins, which were used also for the waterproofing of the surface, have been found both in vessels without other contents and in association with animal and vegetable fats, as well as with wine, thus testifying to their ritual function.
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- 2021
43. Le vin des Étrusques: un produit cosmétique ?
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PÉRARD, Sophie, Édition, Interprétation, Traduction des Textes Anciens (EDITTA), Sorbonne Université (SU), and PÉRARD Jocelyne, WOLIKOW Claudine
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Étrusques ,perfumed oil ,[SHS.ARCHEO]Humanities and Social Sciences/Archaeology and Prehistory ,cosmetics ,parfum ,Etruscans ,perfume ,huile parfumée ,cosmos ,[SHS.ANTHRO-SE]Humanities and Social Sciences/Social Anthropology and ethnology ,[SHS.ART]Humanities and Social Sciences/Art and art history ,Dionysos-Fufluns ,vin ,cosmétique ,wine ,[SHS.GENRE]Humanities and Social Sciences/Gender studies ,[SHS.HIST]Humanities and Social Sciences/History ,[SHS.CLASS]Humanities and Social Sciences/Classical studies ,ComputingMilieux_MISCELLANEOUS ,mundus - Abstract
International audience
- Published
- 2021
44. Moschusduft und Patchouliöl.
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Frister, Thore and Beutel, Sascha
- Abstract
Synthetic musk odours and patchouli oil are widely used in the production of cosmetics and scented household goods. In many perfumes one or both substances are key fragrances to create a unique and luxury odour. While patchouli oil is an essential oil from the patchouli plant, natural musk is historically an animal secrete which is derived from a gland of the muskdeer. The progress in organic synthesis has led to numerous synthetic musk-like fragrance compounds. Both methods, the plant based production as well as the industrial synthesis of fragrances are connected to challenges such as ethic concerns and possible environmental risks. Therefore, sustainable chemical processes as well as biotechnological methods for the future production of important perfumery ingredients are developed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2015
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45. LE PATRIMOINE COMME DON DU TEMPS.
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FALCON, Roberto, FONTAL MERILLAS, Olaia, and TORREGROSA, Apolline
- Abstract
Copyright of Societes is the property of De Boeck Universite and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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- 2015
- Full Text
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46. Vino per gli Opikoi: l’esempio delle tombe preelleniche di Cuma
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Barbara del Mastro, Priscilla Munzi, Jean-Pierre Brun, Henri Duday, Nicolas Garnier, Munzi, Priscilla, BLANC - Archéologie des offrandes funéraires de produits biologiques dans les cultures préromaines celtes, étrusques, italiques et phénico-puniques (VIe s. -Ier s. av. J.-C.). - - MAGI (Manger, boire, offrir pour l'éternité en Gaule et Italie préromaines)2012 - ANR-12-BSH3-0011 - BLANC - VALID, Dominique Frère, Barbara Del Mastro, Priscilla Munzi, Claude Pouzadoux, Università degli studi della Campania 'Luigi Vanvitelli', Centre Jean Berard (CJB), Ecole française de Rome (EFR)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Chaire Techniques et économies de la Méditerranée antique, Collège de France (CdF (institution)), De la Préhistoire à l'Actuel : Culture, Environnement et Anthropologie (PACEA), Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université de Bordeaux (UB), Laboratoire Nicolas Garnier, ANR-12-BSH3-0011,MAGI (Manger, boire, offrir pour l'éternité en Gaule et Italie préromaines),Archéologie des offrandes funéraires de produits biologiques dans les cultures préromaines celtes, étrusques, italiques et phénico-puniques (VIe s. -Ier s. av. J.-C.).(2012), and Université de Bordeaux (UB)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)
- Subjects
riti religiosi ,010506 paleontology ,alimentation (histoire) ,antichità ,[SHS.ARCHEO]Humanities and Social Sciences/Archaeology and Prehistory ,parfum ,History & Archaeology ,prodotti biologici ,Antiquité ,01 natural sciences ,Gallia ,profumo ,Sardegna ,rituel funéraire ,0601 history and archaeology ,produits biologiques ,Cuma ,0105 earth and related environmental sciences ,[SHS.ARCHEO] Humanities and Social Sciences/Archaeology and Prehistory ,060101 anthropology ,alimentazione (storia) ,06 humanities and the arts ,Italia ,riti funebri ,Età del Ferro ,religion ,Necropoli - Abstract
This contribution presents data obtained from the synergy of different specialist fields, such as archaeology, anthropology, botany and biochemistry, to deepen our understanding of social aspects of the indigenous community buried in the pre-Hellenic necropolis of Cuma (Naples, Italy), excavated in 2006 by the Centre Jean B.rard USR 3133 (CNRS-EFR). Thanks to the ANR-MAGI programme it has been possible to identify and characterize, through biomolecular analysis, the organic residues of the impasto pottery in the funerary sets of four primary burials. Three burials belong to male individuals and one to a female, who lived in the Early Iron Age. The analysis of the contents carried out on ceramics from “closed contexts” has made it possible to recognize products of the vine, specifically wine, as the predominant substance. The data demonstrates the prevalence of forms suitable for liquid substances: “services for the consumption and handling of wine” have been recognized, mainly consisting of forms such as askoi, amphorae, ollas, biconical jugs and cups. The consumption of wine in Cumae’s indigenous funerary rituals, in a geographical border area, close to southern Latium populations, forces us to reconsider the role of Cumae in the cultural context of the Mediterranean and the Tyrrhenian Sea during the Iron Age., Il contributo presenta e discute i dati ottenuti dalla sinergia di più ambiti specialistico-disciplinari, archeologia, antropologia, botanica e chimica biomolecolare, nello studio di alcuni contesti funerari provenienti da un settore della necropoli preellenica di Cuma (Campania), indagata recentemente dal Centre Jean Bérard. Nello specifico, in occasione del programma di ricerca ANR-MAGI, è stato possibile procedere all’identificazione e caratterizzazione, attraverso l’analisi biomolecolare, dei resti di sostanze organiche intrappolati nei vasi d’impasto provenienti dall’insieme dei corredi di quattro sepolture primarie a inumazione entro fossa terragna, di cui tre maschili e una femminile, inquadrabili nella prima Età del Ferro. L’analisi dei contenuti effettuata sulle ceramiche pertinenti a “contesti chiusi”, ha permesso di riconoscere i prodotti della vite, nella fattispecie il vino, quale sostanza predominante. Tale dato trova corrispondenza nella prevalenza di forme vascolari adatte alla gestione di sostanze liquide, veri e propri “servizi per il consumo e la manipolazione del vino” composti da forme quali l’askos, l’anfora, l’olla, la brocca biconica e la tazza. L’impiego di una bevanda fermentata, prossima al vino, nel rituale funerario indigeno cumano e il carattere di sito di frontiera, a contatto con le popolazioni del Lazio meridionale, invitano a riconsiderare Cuma nel contesto culturale del Mediterraneo e del Tirreno.
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- 2021
- Full Text
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47. Concerts olfactifs fin-de-siècle : les parfums entre vibrations et matière
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Pisano, Giusy, Wicky, Érika, Wicky, Érika, ENS Louis Lumière, European University Institute (EUI), LAboratoire de Recherche Historique Rhône-Alpes - UMR5190 (LARHRA), École normale supérieure de Lyon (ENS de Lyon)-Université Lumière - Lyon 2 (UL2)-Université Jean Moulin - Lyon 3 (UJML), Université de Lyon-Université de Lyon-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Grenoble Alpes (UGA), and École normale supérieure - Lyon (ENS Lyon)-Université Lumière - Lyon 2 (UL2)-Université Jean Moulin - Lyon 3 (UJML)
- Subjects
odorat ,parfum ,art olfactif ,[SHS] Humanities and Social Sciences ,musique ,odeurs ,ComputingMilieux_MISCELLANEOUS ,[SHS]Humanities and Social Sciences ,olfaction - Abstract
International audience
- Published
- 2021
48. Un décor olfactif : l'essor des vases pots-pourris de Sèvres entre 1750 et 1800 en France
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May, Clara, Blanc, Jan, and Poulain, Berangere
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Parfum ,XVIIIe siècle ,France ,Arts décoratifs ,Manufacture de porcelaine de Sèvres ,ddc:700 ,Décor olfactif ,Vases pots-pourris - Abstract
Ce mémoire de Master propose de comprendre l’essor des vases pots-pourris produits par la Manufacture royale de porcelaine de Sèvres durant la seconde moitié du XVIIIe siècle en France. D’une virtuosité technique et d’un raffinement extrême, ces vases avaient pour fonction de décorer, de parfumer et d'assainir les intérieurs aristocratiques français. Se plaçant dans la lignée des dispositifs olfactifs prophylactiques, les vases pots-pourris étaient censés lutter contre les mauvaises odeurs et, selon l'analogie d'anciennes croyances, contre les maladies. Il semble toutefois que les vases pots-pourris se soient inscrits dans leur temps, incarnant à eux seuls ce moment pivot du milieu du XVIIIe siècle qui connut, d'une part, un abaissement du seuil de tolérance olfactive et, d'autre part, l'émergence d'un goût pour des compositions parfumées peu à peu dénuées du trio animal (ambre gris, musc et civette). Cette mode pour un nouveau type de fragrances, plus légères, marqua un usage des parfums s’éloignant progressivement de leur fonction thérapeutique, ce qui se refléta dans la production d’objets diffuseurs de plus en plus esthétiques. Les formes d’une variété sans pareille et la qualité des vases pots-pourris de la Manufacture royale de porcelaine de Sèvres semblent avoir contribué à les hisser au rang d’objets éminemment décoratifs, dont la présence croissante dans les appartements de l'élite sociale atteste, par ailleurs, de leur vogue. Ainsi placés sur des consoles et sur des manteaux de cheminées, souvent devant des miroirs pour la mise en valeur de leurs décors peints, les vases pots-pourris se virent intégrer des garnitures de porcelaines d’une grande finesse. Cette vocation décorative associée à une fonction parfumante m'a amenée à considérer l'idée d'un « décor olfactif », idée engageant une réflexion sur le caractère esthétique du parfum au XVIIIe siècle ainsi que sur le potentiel plurisensoriel des décors. Enfin, l'originalité, la subtilité et le raffinement déployés par les artistes de la manufacture dans la création des vases pots-pourris m'ont conduite à formuler l'hypothèse que ces derniers ont fortement contribué à l’élaboration du style de la Manufacture royale de porcelaine de Sèvres ainsi qu’à son succès dès le milieu du XVIIIe siècle en France puis à l’étranger.
- Published
- 2021
49. Gucci Beauty par Alessandro Michele : une singulière vision de la Beauté selon Gucci : l’emploi de la figure du directeur de création par Gucci comme légitimation de son extension de territoire de marque vers le parfum et le maquillage
- Author
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Duverger, Guillaume, Sorbonne Université - Faculté des Lettres - École des hautes études en sciences de l'information et de la communication (SU CELSA), Sorbonne Université (SU), and Mathilde Vassor
- Subjects
Créativité ,Parfum ,Beauté ,Directeur de création ,[SHS.INFO]Humanities and Social Sciences/Library and information sciences ,Alessandro Michele (1972-….) ,Maquillage ,Luxe ,Gucci - Abstract
L’objet de ce mémoire est d’appréhender dans quelle mesure la figure d’Alessandro Michele, présenté comme directeur de la création de Gucci, est employée par la marque de mode afin d’affirmer et de réaffirmer la légitimité de son extension dans l’univers de la Beauté.Grâce à des analyses sémiologiques et de discours, ce travail étudie tout d’abord le rôle présenté comme hybride du directeur de création. Il s’agit d’analyser comment il apparaît à la fois comme créateur de produits de beauté, et comme créateur de communication. Cette première partie vise ainsi à montrer comment le directeur de création est positionné comme étant la figure motrice et légitimante de l’extension de la marque vers la Beauté.L’étude porte ensuite sur la démarche initiée par Gucci qui vise à générer une aura créative autour de la figure d’Alessandro Michele, permettant de présenter son extension de territoire de marque comme pertinente, créative et porteuse de sens. Enfin, ce mémoire analyse les imaginaire et esthétiques récurrentes et dominantes de l’univers Gucci Beauty. Cela permet de comprendre comment la marque cherche à assurer la cohésion de son territoire de marque par l’intermède de la figure d’Alessandro Michele qui porte un discours spécifique et personnel sur ces esthétiques et imaginaires choisis.Ainsi, ce travail de recherche permet de comprendre comment la figure du directeur de création peut représenter un atout communicationnel puissant dans la légitimation d’une extension de territoire d’une marque de luxe.
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- 2020
50. Des femmes à Qumrân? Entre textes et objets.
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GALOR, Katharina
- Abstract
Copyright of Clio. Femmes, Genre, Histoire is the property of Belin Editeur and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2014
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