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Objective: To investigate the efficacy and safety of a repairing mask as an adjunctive treatment for skin barrier maintenance of mild to moderate rosacea. Methods: Patients with rosacea were recruited in this dual center randomized controlled trial from November 2019 to December 2021. A total of 64 patients were included and randomized into two groups at a ratio of 3:1 into a mask group (n = 47) and a control group (n = 17). Patients in the mask group received treatment with Dr. Yu Centella asiatica repairing facial mask three times weekly for a duration of 6 weeks. All participants were instructed to continue their regimen of 50 mg oral minocycline twice daily and to apply Dr. Yu Intensive Hydrating Soft Cream twice daily. The primary endpoint of this study was the Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) score. Results: A total of 54 patients completed this trial, with 41 in the mask group and 13 in the control group. After using this facial mask for 3 and 6 weeks, the IGA, facial skin dryness, facial flushing, and severity of skin lesion in the mask group showed significantly improvement (p < 0.05). Moreover, the change in the delta degree of skin flushing was significantly higher than that in the control group (p = 0.037). Throughout the study, no adverse events were reported in either group of participants. Conclusion: The Dr. Yu Centella asiatica repairing facial mask, as an adjunctive treatment of rosacea, appears to effectively repair and protect the skin barrier, alleviate cutaneous symptoms of rosacea, and is both efficacious and safe for patient use. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Surfactin is a natural surfactant almost exclusively produced by Bacillus species with excellent physical‐chemical, and biological properties. Among innovative applications, surfactin has been recently used as an ingredient in formulations. The antibacterial and anti‐acne activities, as well as the anti‐wrinkle, moisturizing, and cleansing features, are some of the reasons this lipopeptide is used in cosmetics. Considering the importance of biosurfactants in the world economy and sustainability, their potential properties for cosmetic and dermatological products, and the importance of patents for technological advancement in a circular bioeconomy system, the present study aims to review all patents involving surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas. This review was conducted through Espacenet, wherein patents containing the terms "cosmetic" and "surfactin" in their titles, abstracts, or claims were examined. Those patents that detailed a specific surfactin dosage within their formulations were selected for analysis. All patents, irrespective of their publication date, from October 1989 to December 2022, were considered. Additionally, a comprehensive search was performed in the MEDLINE and EMBASE databases, spanning from their inception until the year 2023. This complementary search aimed to enrich the understanding derived from patents, with a specific emphasis on surfactin, encompassing its associated advantages, efficacy, mechanisms of action on the skin, as well as aspects related to sustainability and its merits in cosmetic formulations. From the 105 patents analysed, 75% belong to Japan (54), China (14), and Korea (9). Most of them were submitted by Asian companies such as Showa Denko (15), Kaneka (11) and Kao Corporation (5). The formulations described are mainly emulsions, skincare, cleansing, and haircare, and the surfactin dose does not exceed 5%. Surfactin appears in different types of formulas worldwide and has a high tendency to be used. Surfactin and other biosurfactants are a promising alternative to chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulations, guaranteeing skin health benefits and minimizing the impact on the environment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The structure of elastic fibres changes with ageing. Elastin microfibril interface–located protein 1 (EMILIN‐1) is known to contribute to structural changes in elastic fibres. EMILIN‐1 is one of the components of elastic fibres and also colocalizes with oxytalan fibres near the epidermis. Therefore, EMILIN‐1 may be affected by epidermal–dermal interactions. The purpose of this study is to identify the key factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions during the structural degeneration of elastic fibres. Methods: Keratinocytes and fibroblasts were co‐cultured, and changes in elastic fibre‐related proteins were evaluated. Additionally, cytokine arrays were used to identify the factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions. Results: EMILIN‐1 expression in fibroblasts was increased in the presence of keratinocytes, and its expression decreased when keratinocytes were stressed. Amphiregulin (AREG) and interleukin‐1α (IL‐1α) were identified as the keratinocyte‐derived cytokines that influence the production of EMILIN‐1, which is secreted by the fibroblasts. EMILIN‐1 expression was promoted by AREG and decreased by IL‐1α via an increase in cathepsin K (a catabolic enzyme). AREG and IL‐1α were associated with changes in EMILIN‐1 levels in fibroblasts. Conclusion: The findings suggest that the suppression of IL‐1α expression and promotion of AREG expression in the epidermis could be a new approach that prevents the wrinkles and sagging caused by the structural changes in elastic fibres. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Skin type has a strong influence on how sensitive skin develops, with oily skin accounting for a larger proportion of sensitive skin. However, there has not been a scientifically sound questionnaire for determining oily sensitive (OS)‐type skin in prior studies. Objectives: In order to identify OS‐type skin in the general population, we therefore intend to create an OS‐type skin evaluation questionnaire, develop various thresholds through data analysis and classify skin based on two dimensions of sensitivity and oiliness. Methods: A questionnaire with questions regarding subjects' basic information, skin oiliness and skin sensitivity was given to each individual who participated in the study (n = 1297). To define the thresholds for OS‐type skin, receiver‐operating characteristic (ROC) curves were generated. The results of the lactic acid stinging test (LAST) and noninvasive instrument information obtained were compared with the thresholds mentioned above to verify the effectiveness of this tool. Results: According to the ROC curves, questionnaire cut‐off values of 11.5, 20.5 and 29.5 can be used to detect mildly, moderately and severely sensitive skin, respectively. In addition, the questionnaire cut‐off values of 22.5 and 31.5 can be used to detect moderately and severely oily skin, respectively. According to our study, the four sensitive‐skin groups' LAST scores differed significantly from one another, while the skin sebum levels differed significantly between the three oily groups. Additionally, the EI and LAST scores were significantly correlated with skin sensitivity levels, whereas sebum, moisture and EI were positively correlated with skin oiliness levels. Conclusions: We developed an OS‐type skin evaluation questionnaire that has been tested and shown scientifically to be a promising method for evaluating OS‐type skin and to completely examine the traits of sensitive and oily skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion Environmental factors are important in the generation or aggravation of sensitive skin syndrome (SSS). Creams can be useful for patients with SSS, particularly when triggering factors cannot be avoided. Several clinical studies have investigated the safety and efficacy of specific creams in patients with SSS, but the majority were assessed with a single type of triggering factor and were non‐comparative. Therefore, this study's aim was to investigate, the benefit of a specific dermo‐cosmetic product in response to physical and chemical factors in subjects with SSS.Three clinical studies were performed on subjects presenting SSS. The physical impact was assessed in a stripping test, and in a randomized intra‐individual study with a newly developed heat–cold stress model. To assess chemical factors, a capsaicin test on the nasolabial fold was performed.The product significantly reduced the increase in skin microcirculation caused by stripping after 30 min versus. The untreated condition (45.8% vs. 62.0%; p < 0.01). Immediately and at D28, the product induced a significant increase in skin hydration even after a heat–cold stress, while the overall score of unpleasant symptoms significantly decreased compared with the control (8.1 vs. 10.7 and 3.7 vs. 8.0, respectively; p < 0.01). Regarding chemical factors, a significant difference in the sensation intensity (p < 0.001) was observed after capsaicin stress, also in terms of the sensation duration due to the product application versus the control (192 s vs. 403 s; p < 0.001).These studies show that topical application of a dermo‐cosmetic product can prevent unpleasant symptoms and improve the skin state in SSS exposed to physical and chemical triggering factors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR2) is a class-A G protein-coupled receptor (GPCR) activated by serine proteases and is expressed by multiple tissues, including the skin. PAR2 is involved in the skin inflammatory response, promoting Th2 inflammation, delaying skin barrier repair, and affecting the differentiation of keratinocytes. It also participates in the transmission of itch and pain sensations in the skin. Increasing evidence indicates that PAR2 plays an important role in the pathogenesis of inflammatory skin diseases such as acne vulgaris, rosacea, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. Additional focus will be placed on potential targeted therapies based on PAR2. The Goal of this review is to outline the emerging effects of PAR2 activation in inflammatory skin disease and highlight the promise of PAR2 modulators. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion Basic therapy is an integral part of the treatment of chronic skin diseases. However, the formulation of skin products should be analysed with respect to the physical stability and tolerance by the patients before applying them to diseased skin. In particular, the suitability of the formulation for use on damaged skin should be taken into consideration so that no exacerbation of the condition is caused.The following approach investigated two formulations with the emulsifier sorbitan monostearate and one with the addition of polyethylene glycol 100 stearyl ether. The characterization included rheology, macroscopic and microscopic cream analysis compared to marketed products for basic therapy. Pyranine staining of stratum corneum (SC) and trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed with ex vivo porcine SC to asses skin barrier function.The rheological characterization showed a gel‐like, viscoelastic behaviour of the formulations and a viscosity in the same order of magnitude as the marketed products. Staining with pyranine revealed that skin damage caused by sodium lauryl sulfate was compensated by treatment with the developed formulations. Following the same trend, TEWL results clearly showed decreasing values, which evidence improved skin barrier function.In conclusion, the developed sorbitan monostearate formulations can potentially improve deficient skin barrier function as a part of basic therapy of skin diseases and act as a superior alternative to market products comprising a minimum of well‐chosen ingredients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Reconstructed epidermal equivalents (REEs) consist of two distinct cell layers – the stratum corneum (SC) and the keratinocyte layer (KL). The interplay of these layers is particularly crucial in pruritic inflammatory disorders, like psoriasis, where a defective SC barrier is associated with immune dysregulation. However, independent evaluation of the skin barrier function of the SC and KL in REEs is highly challenging because of the lack of quantitative methodologies that do not disrupt the counter layer. Here, a non‐invasive impedance spectroscopy technique is introduced for dissecting the distinct contributions of the SC and KL to overall skin barrier function without disrupting the structure. These findings, inferred from the impedance spectra, highlight the individual barrier resistances and maturation levels of each layer. Using an equivalent circuit model, a correlation between impedance parameters and specific skin layers, offering insights beyond traditional impedance methods that address full‐thickness skin only is established. This approach successfully detects subtle changes, such as increased paracellular permeability due to mild irritants and the characterization of an immature SC in psoriatic models. This research has significant implications, paving the way for detailed mechanistic investigations and fostering the development of therapies for skin irritation and inflammatory disorders. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion Skin elasticity, which is vital for a youthful appearance, depends on the elastic fibres in the dermis. However, these fibres deteriorate with ageing, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Changes that occur in the elastic fibres in living human skin and the relationship between elastic fibres and the state of the skin surface remain unclear. Therefore, it is necessary to verify the relationship between elastic fibres and skin elasticity. In this study, we investigated the association of the elastic fibre structure with skin elasticity and stratum corneum protein content in living human skin.Thirty‐five female volunteers aged 25–66 years were included in this study. Elastic fibres were observed using a multiphoton scanning laser biomicroscope. Skin elasticity was measured using a Cutometer, and stratum corneum proteins (Heat‐shock protein 27 [HSP27] and galectin‐7 [Gal‐7]) in tape‐stripped samples were analysed using an enzyme‐linked immunosorbent assay.Elastic fibres exhibited increased curvature and thickness with increased age, with fragmentation observed in women aged >60 years. Elastin scores, which reflect thinness and curvature, were negatively correlated with age, whereas they were positively correlated with R7 elasticity (recovery ability). In individuals aged 20–30 years, higher levels of inflammatory markers (HSP27 and Gal‐7) correlated with lower elastin scores; however, this trend was not observed in older participants.Elastic fibre deterioration worsened after 40 years of age, and this effect correlated with reduced skin recovery and increased wrinkles. In younger individuals, inflammatory markers affected elastic fibres. These findings can guide anti‐ageing strategies that focus on elastic fibre preservation and inflammation control. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The skin barrier is essential for maintaining the body's internal homeostasis, protecting against harmful external substances, and regulating water and electrolyte balance. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) offers notable advantages in restoring skin barrier function due to its diverse components, targets, and pathways. Recent studies have demonstrated that active ingredients in TCM can safely and effectively repair damaged skin barriers, reinstating their proper functions. This review article provides a comprehensive overview of the mechanisms underlying skin barrier damage and explores how the bioactive constituents of TCM contribute to skin barrier repair, thereby offering a theoretical framework to inform clinical practices. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Little is known about how sun exposure may affect the maternal skin barrier during pregnancy when many hormonal and physiological changes occur. In this longitudinal observational study, 50 pregnant women were recruited at 18–24 weeks' gestation, 25 in summer–autumn, and 25 in winter–spring. At three time points in pregnancy at 18–24, 28–30, and 36–38 weeks' gestation, participants completed a validated sun exposure questionnaire and had skin permeability and surface pH measured on the volar forearm. We identified an association between increased sun exposure and increased skin permeability at 18–24 weeks' gestation (β = 0.85, p = 0.01). Lower transepidermal water loss (decreased skin permeability), mean = 12.1 (SD = 5.1) at 28–30 weeks' gestation was observed, compared to mean = 12.6 (SD = 4.0) at 18–24 weeks' and mean = 13.7 (SD = 8.5) at 36–38 weeks' gestation (n = 27, β = −1.83, p = 0.007). Higher skin pH readings, mean = 5.80 (SD = 0.58) were found at 28–30 weeks' gestation, compared to mean = 5.25 (SD = 0.62) at 18–24 weeks' and mean = 5.47 (SD = 0.57) at 36–38 weeks' gestation (n = 27, β = 0.40, p = 0.004). These gestational fluctuations remained after adjusting for Fitzpatrick skin type, season, and sun exposure. We observed gestational fluctuations in both skin permeability and skin pH, with 28–30 weeks' gestation being a significant point of difference compared to mid‐ and late‐pregnancy periods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Microencapsulation of hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) can improve its application in cosmetics. Objective: To investigate the safety and efficacy of Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol, a HPR microcapsule containing 5%–10% peony seed oil, 0.01%–1% epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside (ECGG), and 0.1%–1% HPR. Methods: The safety of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol was evaluated with zebrafish embryo self‐rotation irritation test and developmental toxicity test. SymRenew™ HPR was used as a reference. The skin care efficacies of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol were evaluated using zebrafish embryos covering antioxidation, anti‐inflammation, blood circulation, whitening, wound healing, skin barrier protection, Type I collagen, elastin, and 5α‐reductase genes expression activities. Results: The irritation test revealed that 250 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol did not, while 20 μg/mL SymRenew™ HPR significantly (p < 0.05) increased zebrafish embryo self‐rotation frequency. The developmental toxicity test found the teratogenicity index (half lethal concentration/half toxicity concentration) of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol and SymRenew™ HPR were 1.9 and 3.1, respectively. The efficacy analysis results showed that 5 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol significantly (p < 0.05) exerted 7.1% anti‐ROS, 20% anti‐inflammation, 14% enhanced blood circulation, 10% suppressed melanin synthesis, 9% enhanced tail fin regeneration, 72% elicited skin barrier protection activity, enhanced the expression of Type I collagen genes col1a1, col1a2, and col1a2 by 34%, 51%, and 42%, respectively, and elastin gene elna by 46%, and suppressed the expression of 5α‐reductase genes srd5a1, srd5a2a, and srd5a2b by 52%, 15%, and 30%, respectively. Conclusion: This study demonstrated that Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol is a safe cosmetic ingredient with multi‐skin care efficacies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As a natural macromolecular protein extracted from silk, silk fibroin (SF) has been widely used as biological material in recent years due to its antioxidant and photodamage reduction effects. To study the protective effect of silk fibroin against skin photodamage, the immortalized human keratinocyte line (HaCaT) was used as a model for study of UVB injury. Intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the levels of calcium ions (Ca2+) were measured by ELISA and fluorescence microscopy. The expression of transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 1 (TRPV1) and the expression of Claudin-1 were detected by immunofluorescence assay. In addition, western blotting was used to analyze the expression of tight junction proteins occludin and Claudin-1. The results showed that 120 mJ/cm2 of UVB stimulation significantly reduced cell viability, while the presence of 100 μg/mL silk fibroin significantly increased cell viability. UVB stimulation could increase the level of intracellular ROS, activate TRPV1 channels, and induce the increase of intracellular Ca2+ level. Meanwhile, the levels of inflammatory cytokines interleukin- 1α (IL-1α) (P<0.01) and S100A8 (P<0.05) were also significantly increased, which caused inflammation. However, the effect of UVB on HaCaT cells with the addition of silk fibroin was significantly decreased (P<0.05). In conclusion, UVB could disrupt the structural integrity of barrier proteins, resulting in the decreased expression of the barrier proteins Claudin-1 and occludin. The addition of silk fibroin could reduce such effect and protect the tightly connected structure. Therefore, silk fibroin might have great potential to protect skin from UV-induced inflammation, barrier damage and oxidative stress damage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Intense pulsed light (IPL) has been widely used to improve cutaneous photoaging in recent years. Several studies began to explore the changes of skin barrier function after treatment, but the changes of skin surface lipids (SSL), especially specific lipid content and types are still unclear. Methods: A total of 25 female volunteers were included in our study, and each of them received three full-face treatments with one month apart. Before the first treatment and 1 month after the last treatment, we collected clinical photos and skin stratum corneum samples from individuals. A 5-level scale was used to evaluate the efficacy of IPL treatment, liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), and Orthogonal Partial Least Squares Discrimination Analysis (OPLS-DA) were used to analyze the changes of SSL. Results: Two patients got no improvement after treatment, 6 patients had poor improvement and mild improvement was achieved in 9 patients, 5 and 3 patients reported moderate and significant improvement. The overall "effective" rate was 68 % and the "significant effective" rate was 32 %. The results showed 18 lipid subclasses and 487 lipid molecules were identified. The change of total lipid volume was not statistically significant (P = 0.088>0.05), but lipid subclass analysis showed the amount of Triglyceride (TG), Phosphatidic Acid (PA), Phosphatidylglycerol (PG) and Lysophosphatidylglycerol (LPG) were significantly increased (P < 0.05). There were 55 kinds of lipid molecules with significant difference after treatment (P < 0.05), and 51 of them belong to TG. The analysis of chain saturation of TG showed that the quantity of TG with 0, 1 and 2 unsaturated bonds increased significantly (P < 0.05). Conclusions: IPL treatment does not have a significant effect on the overall amount of lipids while the amount of TG, PA, PG, LPG were significantly increased. These lipid changes may potentially improve the skin barrier function, but more high-quality and comprehensive studies are still needed. Bullet Point: Lipidomics analysis based on LC-MS; Changes of skin surface lipid after IPL treatment; the relationships between skin surface lipid and skin barrier functions. Level of Evidence IV: This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The primary function of the skin is to form a mechanical, permeability, antimicrobial, and ultraviolet radiation barrier, which is essential for maintaining physiological homeostasis. Our previous studies demonstrated that cutaneous pigmentation could promote skin barrier function in addition to providing anti‐ultraviolet irradiation defense. The present study aimed to develop a new regimen that enhances skin barrier function by regulating skin pigmentation using low‐concentration imiquimod. Results showed that topical application of low‐concentration imiquimod effectively induced skin hyperpigmentation in the dorsal skin and external ear of mice without inducing inflammatory cell infiltration. An in vitro study also revealed that low‐concentration imiquimod did not induce any cytotoxic effects on melanoma cells but triggered excessive melanin synthesis. In coculture systems, low‐concentration imiquimod was noted to increase tyrosinase activity in a broader cellular context, revealing the potential role of neighboring cells in melanin production. The next‐generation sequencing result indicated that PKCη and Dnm3 might regulate melanin synthesis and release during imiquimod treatment. Overall, our study presents new insights into the regulation of melanin production by low‐concentration imiquimod, both in a mice model and cultured cells. Furthermore, our study highlights the potential benefits of imiquimod in promoting melanin synthesis without causing skin disruptions or inducing inflammation, validating its potential to serve as a method for enhancing skin barrier functions by regulating the epidermal melanization reaction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Tapinarof is a nonsteroidal, topical, aryl hydrocarbon receptor agonist. Tapinarof has been shown to be efficacious and have acceptable safety profile in the treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD). Objective: We sought to evaluate the improvement effect of tapinarof on skin barrier function in patients with AD. Methods: This was an open-label, uncontrolled, single-center study. Japanese patients aged ≥20 years with AD (N = 30) were included in this study. Patients applied tapinarof cream 1% once daily to the target areas on the volar forearm for 8 weeks. The primary endpoints were changes from baseline in stratum corneum hydration (SCH) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) at the target affected area at week 8. Results: The mean SCH value at the target affected area was 13.656 AU at baseline, 16.904 AU at week 4, and 16.423 AU at week 8. The SCH at the target affected area significantly increased from baseline to week 8, with a mean change of 2.826 AU (p = 0.0433). The mean TEWL value at the target affected area was 17.35 g/m2/hr at baseline, 10.01 g/m2/hr at week 4, and 9.52 g/m²/hr at week 8. The TEWL at the target affected area significantly decreased from baseline to week 8, with a mean change of -8.03 g/m2/hr (p < 0.0001). Clinical signs of AD at the target affected area were improved over time. No serious, severe, or treatment-related AEs were reported. Conclusion: Treatment with tapinarof led to an increase in SCH and a decrease in TEWL in patients with AD, indicating the potential improvement effect of tapinarof on skin barrier function. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Propolis is a natural resinous substance made by bees through mixing various plant sources. Propolis has been widely recognized as a functional food due to its diverse range of beneficial bioactivities. However, the therapeutic effects of consuming propolis against atopic dermatitis (AD) remain largely unknown. The current study aimed to investigate the potential efficacy of propolis against AD and explore the active compound as well as the direct molecular target. In HaCaT keratinocytes, propolis inhibited TNF‐α‐induced interleukin (IL)‐6 and IL‐8 secretion. It also led to a reduction in chemokines such as monocyte chemoattractant protein‐1 (MCP‐1) and macrophage‐derived chemokine (MDC), while restoring the levels of barrier proteins, filaggrin and involucrin. Propolis exhibited similar effects in AD‐like human skin, leading to the suppression of AD markers and the restoration of barrier proteins. In DNCB‐induced mice, oral administration of propolis attenuated AD symptoms, improved barrier function, and reduced scratching frequency and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In addition, propolis reversed the mRNA levels of AD‐related markers in mouse dorsal skin. These effects were attributed to caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE), the active compound identified by comparing major components of propolis. Mechanistic studies revealed that CAPE as well as propolis could directly and selectively target MKK4. Collectively, these findings demonstrate that propolis may be used as a functional food agent for the treatment of AD. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a prevalent and chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by a multifaceted pathophysiology that gives rise to diverse clinical manifestations. The management of AD remains challenging due to the suboptimal efficacy of existing treatment options. Nonetheless, recent progress in elucidating the underlying mechanisms of the disease has facilitated the identification of new potential therapeutic targets and promising drug candidates. In this review, we summarize the newest data, considering multiple connections between IL-22 and AD. The presence of circulating IL-22 has been found to correlate with the severity of AD and is identified as a critical factor driving the inflammatory response associated with the condition. Elevated levels of IL-22 in patients with AD are correlated with increased proliferation of keratinocytes, alterations in the skin microbiota, and impaired epidermal barrier function. Collectively, these factors contribute to the manifestation of the characteristic symptoms observed in AD. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper‐ and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal–epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all‐trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All‐trans retinoic acid is considered the ‘gold standard’ for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription‐only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well‐tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion To investigate the repairing and anti‐wrinkle efficacy of the facial cream enriched with C‐xyloside, aiming at comprehensively evaluating its skin anti‐ aging effect and clarify its potential mechanism of action.The repairing efficacy was studied on 3D epidermis skin model and the antiaging efficacy was studied on ex‐vivo human skin. Two clinical studies were conducted with Chinese females. In the first study, 49 subjects aged between 30 and 50 with wrinkle concerns were recruited and instructed to apply the investigational cream containing C‐xyloside for 8 weeks. Wrinkles attributes were assessed by dermatologist. Instrumental measurements on skin hydration, trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin elasticity were also conducted. In the second study, 30 subjects aged between 25 and 60 with self‐declared sensitive skin and facial redness were recruited and instructed to apply the cream for 4 weeks. Biomarker analysis of the stratum corneum was conducted through facial tape strips.The cream improved the histomorphology of the 3D epidermis skin model after SLS stimulation, and significantly increase the expression of LOR and FLG. On human skin, the cream improved the histopathology induced by UV, and significantly increased the protein content of COL I and COL III, collagen density and the number of Ki‐67 positive cell of skin compared with model group (n = 3, p < 0.01). The results from the first clinical study demonstrate a significant increased the skin hydration and elasticity by 21.90%, 13.08% (R2) and 12.30% (R5), respectively (n = 49, p < 0.05), and the TEWL values decreased by 33.94% (n = 49, p < 0.05), after 8 weeks application of the cream. In addition, the scores for nasolabial folds, glabellar wrinkle, underneath eye wrinkles, crow's feet wrinkle and forehead wrinkle in the volunteers exhibited a significant reduction of 34.02%, 43.34%, 50.03%, 33.64% and 55.81% respectively (n = 49, p < 0.05). The (rCE)/(fCE) ratio of volunteers based on tape stripping significant increased after using the sample cream (n = 30, p < 0.05).The cream containing C‐xyloside showed improvement of skin wrinkles and enhancement of skin barrier function. These efficacies may be attributed to the fact that the sample cream can increase the expression of skin barrier related proteins LOR and FLG, promote the maturation of cornified envelope, enhance collagen I and III protein expression and stimulate skin cell proliferation, to provide sufficient evidence supporting its antiaging efficacy of skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: The integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the skin's barrier function, protecting against environmental stressors and minimizing transepidermal water loss. Advances in skincare formulations have introduced multilamellar systems designed to emulate the SC's lipid composition and organization. This study hypothesizes that the application of a multilamellar cream will significantly impact the SC's lipid content and lamellar structure, thereby enhancing the epidermal barrier. Methods: A saturated phosphatidylcholine‐based multilamellar cream was applied to a cohort of adult subjects with very dry skin. Electron microscopy was utilized to analyse the micro‐morphology of the cream and its integration into the lipid‐depleted SC. Lipid analysis was conducted to quantify changes in the intercellular lipid matrix. Results: Transmission‐electron microscopy (TEM) imaging demonstrated that the multilamellar cream possesses a structured arrangement comparable to the natural SC architecture. Short‐term application revealed a time‐dependent restoration of lipid bilayers, while a 14‐day regimen showed a marked increase in lipid lamellae density and length within the SC. Lipid analysis indicated a significant increase in total lipid content, with notable enhancements in ceramide and free fatty acid levels, without altering cholesterol levels. Lipid ratio analysis further confirmed the rebalancing of the SC's lipid composition. Discussion: The multilamellar cream selectively increased specific lipids critical for barrier function, suggesting an action mechanism that aligns with the skin's natural regulatory processes. This selective augmentation indicates the potential of the formulation to not only restore but also enhance the epidermal barrier, with the maintenance of physiological lipid ratios suggesting compatibility with intrinsic repair mechanisms. Conclusion: The study confirms that a multilamellar cream can significantly improve the SC's lipid composition and structural integrity, indicating enhanced barrier function. They are pivotal for skincare professionals, dermatologists, and product developers, enriching the understanding of multilamellar creams' benefits and applications in improving epidermal barrier function. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by compositional and structural changes to the skin at lesional sites. Alteration to the levels and organization of both protein and lipid components are associated with disease status and lead to impaired barrier and hydration. Corneodesmosin (CDSN) and the arrangement and length of the intercellular lipid lamellae (ICLL) are altered in disrupted skin states. The aim of this research was to profile the distribution of CDSN and the ICLL in the stratum corneum (SC) at lesional and non‐lesional sites in AD‐prone skin and to investigate the impact of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal. Methods: An IRB‐approved study was conducted with participants with active AD. From a small subset of participants, tape strips were collected from lesional and non‐lesional sites on the arm, prior to and after twice daily application, over 4 weeks of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal. Fluorescent antibody staining was used to investigate the distribution of CDSN. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) was used to characterize the ICLL. Results: The distribution/coverage of CDSN was similar between lesional and non‐lesional sites at baseline; application of the lotion resulted in a more defined honeycomb/peripheral distribution. Normalized ICLL (nICLL) was lower in baseline samples from lesional sites relative to non‐lesional sites. Application of the lotion increased this parameter by the end of the study at all sites. Conclusion: The eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids and colloidal oatmeal provided changes in corneodesmosomal proteins distribution and ICLL, consistent with improvements in corneocyte maturation and improved barrier function in the skin of individuals with atopic dermatitis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost epidermal layer, plays a pivotal role in skin barrier function. This review delves into the intricate process of protein degradation within the stratum corneum, elucidating the roles of specific enzymes, regulatory mechanisms and the consequent impact on various skin conditions. Protein degradation is a finely tuned process, orchestrated by a suite of proteolytic enzymes like kallikreins. These enzymes are responsible for the breakdown of corneodesmosomes and the orderly desquamation of corneocytes, a process essential for skin homeostasis. Another critical enzymatic process is the breakdown of proteins like filaggrin and the generation of amino acids and their derivatives, required in the physiological water‐handling properties of the SC. Regulation of these proteolytic activities is complex, involving a balance between endogenous inhibitors and other factors like pH, hydration and environmental stressors. Dysregulation of protease activity is linked to a spectrum of skin conditions, ranging from xerosis to inflammatory diseases like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Aberrant protein degradation can lead to compromised skin barrier function, increased tissue water loss and heightened susceptibility to infections and allergens. Understanding the factors affecting protein degradation can inform the development of targeted skincare products. Advances in biochemistry and dermatology have paved the way for the search for active ingredients designed to modulate protease activity. Such innovations may offer promising therapeutic avenues for enhancing skin barrier function and treating skin disorders. This review underscores the significance of enzymatic protein degradation in the SC and its regulatory mechanisms. It provides insights into the pathophysiology of skin diseases and outlines the potential for novel skincare interventions. By bridging the gap between fundamental research and practical applications, this article aims to inspire further investigation for better understanding of skin physiology and innovation in the realm of skincare product development. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ceramides are a family of lipids constituted by a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the skin, they are mainly present in the stratum corneum where, with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they constitute the inter‐corneocyte lipids. With the other lipid groups, they play a key role in the formation of dense lamellar structures between adjacent corneocytes, collectively ensuring the vital efficient barrier to water evaporation and protection from foreign agents´ penetration. Changes in ceramide level and relative composition, with potential impairment of lipid arrangement, have been evidenced in different skin conditions and skin diseases. Therefore, use of suitably formulated ceramides has been proposed for topical treatment to help re‐structure damaged lipid arrangement and repair impaired skin barrier function. Nonetheless, the formulation of ceramides in products necessitates specific processes such as heating to high temperature before their introduction in the final formula. In this review on the structure, the role and the potential of ceramides for skincare, we point out the necessity of rigorous process when formulating ceramides into the final product. We demonstrate the counterproductive effects of undissolved ceramides on skin barrier repair capacity of the formulas, when assessed in different in vitro models of disrupted skin barrier. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Ex vivo skin has been used to study various skin conditions from atopic dermatitis to burn injury. The aim of this research is to identify a more effective barrier improvement strategy and to evaluate topical formulations in replenishing the skin. The skin can create new longer chain fatty acids and ceramides (CERs) from topically applied skin natural fatty acid to help renew the skin's barrier. Methods: An ex vivo skin model damaged by sequential tape stripping of the stratum corneum (SC) was used to investigate the repair of the SC. Confocal laser scanning microscopy was used to assess the SC layers recovered. Ultrastructural analysis was performed using transmission electron microscopy to visualize the lamellar bodies and intercellular lipid lamellae. Results: The data in this study provide the first direct ex vivo evidence comparing different marketed formulations containing three CERs with those containing fatty acids. Free fatty acid (FFA)‐containing formulations, but not CER‐containing formulations, directly applied to the damaged skin, showed an increased number of repaired SC layers and this was reflected at the ultrastructural level by an increased intercellular lipid lamellae length and an increased number of lamellar bodies. Conclusion: These findings demonstrate that FFA‐containing formulations can repair damaged ex vivo skin and point to a repair mechanism in which topically applied palmitic and stearic acids, (which boost lipid levels and elongation) can increase the production and transport of lipids into a repaired SC and thus rebuild an effective skin barrier. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Complexities of robotic distal gastrectomy (RDG) give reason to assess physician's surgical skill. Varying levels in surgical skill affect patient outcomes. We aim to investigate how a novel artificial intelligence (AI) model can be used to evaluate surgical skill in RDG by recognizing surgical instruments. Methods: Fifty‐five consecutive robotic surgical videos of RDG for gastric cancer were analyzed. We used Deeplab, a multi‐stage temporal convolutional network, and it trained on 1234 manually annotated images. The model was then tested on 149 annotated images for accuracy. Deep learning metrics such as Intersection over Union (IoU) and accuracy were assessed, and the comparison between experienced and non‐experienced surgeons based on usage of instruments during infrapyloric lymph node dissection was performed. Results: We annotated 540 Cadiere forceps, 898 fenestrated bipolars, 359 suction tubes, 307 Maryland bipolars, 688 harmonic scalpels, 400 staplers, and 59 large clips. The average IoU and accuracy were 0.82 ± 0.12% and 87.2 ± 11.9% respectively. Moreover, the percentage of each instrument's usage to overall infrapyloric lymphadenectomy duration predicted by AI were compared. The use of stapler and large clip were significantly shorter in the experienced group compared to the non‐experienced group. Conclusions: This study is the first to report that surgical skill can be successfully and accurately determined by an AI model for RDG. Our AI gives us a way to recognize and automatically generate instance segmentation of the surgical instruments present in this procedure. Use of this technology allows unbiased, more accessible RDG surgical skill. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Stratum corneum (SC) is essential for skin barrier function, mitigating water loss and shielding against potentially harmful substances and allergens. The SC's lipid matrix, arranged in a lamellar structure, is integral to its protective role. Our study explores the restoration effects of a multilamellar cream with an acidic pH compared to a basic placebo cream on skin physiology and its interaction with the skin microbiome after stress induction via tape stripping (TS). Materials and Methods: In this double‐blind study, 14 healthy participants aged 21–58 years were assessed pre‐ and post‐tape stripping, followed by a 14 days application of a multilamellar test cream and a placebo cream with evaluations on days 7, 14 and 17 for sustained effects. Skin physiology was analysed in terms of epidermal barrier function, SC hydration and surface pH. The microbiome was analysed by 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing the 16S rRNA gene using Illumina MiSeq, with subsequent species identification. Results: Our study showed significant improvements in skin barrier repair and SC hydration with verum, particularly after 14 days of application, while both creams initially enhanced stratum corneum hydration. No significant changes in surface‐pH were detected. The skin microbiome analysis revealed that TS slightly decreased alpha diversity, a trend that verum significantly reversed, enhancing diversity beyond baseline levels after 14 days. Overall, while both creams contributed to a broader microbial phyla diversity over time, no significant changes in the abundance of specific genera or species were noted between treatments. Discussion and Conclusion: Our study delineates the efficacy of a pH‐optimized multilamellar cream in enhancing epidermal barrier recovery and SC hydration post‐sequential TS, in contrast to an unstructured basic placebo. Verum cream significantly improved skin barrier function and SC hydration at day 14, with sustained effects evident beyond the treatment period. Furthermore, the multilamellar formulation facilitated the restitution of cutaneous microbiome diversity, a key indicator of healthy skin ecology, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between barrier integrity and microbial composition. These findings underscore the importance of multilamellar emollient structures in dermatological therapeutics, with potential implications for the design of advanced skincare interventions that holistically support cutaneous resilience and homeostasis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Anthony V. Rawlings has had 30+ years of experience in the general area of skin science. He has many scientific publications, and his work has been highly cited. He has made major contributions to our understanding of skin physiology, including xerosis and hydration, barrier function, desquamation, the corneocyte envelope, physical chemistry of stratum corneum lipids, photodamage and ethnic variation. He has held management positions with several companies in the US and UK, established AVR Consulting in 2002 and maintained a long‐standing relationship with colleagues at University College London. His time as the Editor in Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was pivotal in the development of the journal. He worked hard and succeeded in getting the IJCS included in the PubMed database. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Glucocorticoids are often used and highly effective anti-inflammatory medications, but prolonged topical application may alter the epidermis' normal structure and function, potentially resulting in a number of adverse effects. Topical glucocorticoid-induced skin inflammation is a dangerous condition that develops after topical glucocorticoid use. The patients become dependent on the medication and, even after the medication is stopped, the dermatitis symptoms recur, severely impairing their quality of life. Thus, the need to aggressively confront Topical glucocorticoid-induced skin inflammation is critical. Prior research has demonstrated that topical administration of licorice's flavonoid component liquiritin stimulates epidermal proliferation, which in turn enhances the creation of collagen and the healing of wounds. Therefore, the purpose of this work was to determine if topical use of liquiritin carbomer gel can treat glucocorticoid-induced changes in mice skin epidermal function, and the mechanisms involved. The findings demonstrated that, in the mice model of topical glucocorticoid-induced skin inflammation, liquiritin carbomer gel aided in the restoration of skin barrier function. These outcomes may have been caused by enhanced expression of the proteins Aquaporin 3, Keratin 10, and Claudin-1, as well as the restoration of epidermal hyaluronan content. In the meantime, liquiritin carbomer gel dramatically decreased the expression of TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, IFN-γ, and IgE in mice, according to ELISA tests. Furthermore, topical treatment of liquiritin carbomer gel boosted the expression of superoxide dismutase, catalase, and decreased malondialdehyde expression, potentially counteracting the detrimental effects of glucocorticoids on the epidermis. In summary, these findings imply that topical liquiritin carbomer gel can treat glucocorticoid-induced skin damage through various mechanisms of action. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ceramides are essential lipids for skin barrier function, and various classes and species exist in the human stratum corneum (SC). To date, the relationship between skin conditions and ceramide composition in healthy individuals has remained largely unclear. In the present study, we measured six skin condition parameters (capacitance, transepidermal water loss, scaliness, roughness, multilayer exfoliation, and corneocyte cell size) for the SC of the cheeks and upper arms of 26 healthy individuals and performed correlation analyses with their SC ceramide profiles, which we measured via liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry. In the cheeks, high levels and/or ratios of two free ceramide classes containing an extra hydroxyl group in the long-chain moiety and a protein-bound ceramide class containing 6-hydroxysphingosine correlated with healthy skin conditions. In contrast, the ratios of two other free ceramide classes, both containing sphingosine, and a protein-bound ceramide class containing 4,14-sphingadiene correlated with unhealthy skin conditions, as did shortening of the carbon chain of the fatty acid portion of two ceramide classes containing non-hydroxy fatty acids. Thus, our findings help to elucidate the relationship between skin conditions and ceramide composition. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Exposure to environmental stressors like particulate matter (PM) and ultraviolet radiation (UV) induces cutaneous oxidative stress and inflammation and leads to skin barrier dysfunction and premature aging. Metals like iron or copper are abundant in PM and are known to contribute to reactive oxygen species (ROS) production. Aims: Although it has been suggested that topical antioxidants may be able to help in preventing and/or reducing outdoor skin damage, limited clinical evidence under real‐life exposure conditions have been reported. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the ability of a topical serum containing 15% ascorbic acid, 0.5% ferulic acid, and 1% tocopherol (CF Mix) to prevent oxinflammatory skin damage and premature aging induced by PM + UV in a human clinical trial. Methods: A 4‐day single‐blinded, clinical study was conducted on the back of 15 females (18–40 years old). During the 4 consecutive days, the back test zones were treated daily with or without the CF Mix, followed by with/without 2 h of PM and 5 min of UV daily exposure. Results: Application of the CF Mix prevented PM + UV‐induced skin barrier perturbation (Involucrin and Loricrin), lipid peroxidation (4HNE), inflammatory markers (COX2, NLRP1, and AhR), and MMP9 activation. In addition, CF Mix was able to prevent Type I Collagen loss. Conclusion: This is the first human study confirming multipollutant cutaneous damage and suggesting the utility of a daily antioxidant topical application to prevent pollution induced skin damage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Contact dermatitis is a common inflammatory skin disease that often requires prescription therapy and is associated with adverse reactions. Omega fatty acids have been recognized for their anti-inflammatory effect and could serve as a safer option in contact dermatitis treatment. Therefore, the aim of this randomized controlled study, conducted at the University of Split School of Medicine, was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of omega fatty acids containing topical products in an experimental model of irritant contact dermatitis. This study was registered with ClinicalTrials (NCT06189144) and is closed. The primary outcomes were levels of transepidermal water loss, skin hydration, and skin erythema, all measured using an MPA6 device in 25 healthy participants. A significant difference was observed between the hydration values of the intervention (45.7 ± 12.4) and control groups (31.6 ± 12.3) (p < 0.05) on final measurements (day 10). Moreover, higher erythema levels were observed in participants who were smokers, compared to non-smokers. No adverse drug reactions were observed during the study period. In conclusion, omega fatty acids topical product use shows promise in the treatment of irritant contact dermatitis, and further studies are needed to evaluate efficacy in a larger sample of patients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Background and Objectives: Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder with a significant burden on patients' quality of life. This systematic review aims to evaluate the restoration of skin barrier abnormalities with interleukin-4/interleukin-13 (IL-4/IL-13) inhibitors and Janus kinase (JAK) inhibitors in atopic dermatitis. Materials and Methods: A comprehensive review of the literature was conducted, focusing on studies that assess the use of IL-4/IL-13 inhibitors and JAK inhibitors for atopic dermatitis. We identified eligible studies by searching Medline via PubMed with a special focus on their effect on the restoration of the epidermal barrier. Included studies evaluated the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the reduction in epidermal thickness (ET), the improvement in ceramide synthesis, and the increase in stratum corneum hydration (SCH) with IL-4/IL-13 inhibitors and JAK inhibitors. The quality of included studies was assessed using the ROBINS-I and the RoB 2.0 tool for assessing the risk of bias. Results: Ten of the included studies concern dupilumab, while two concern JAK inhibitors. Ten were observational studies and two were randomized controlled trials (RCTs). The total number of included participants was 378 concerning dupilumab and 38 concerning JAK inhibitors. Five studies did not include any comparison group, three included healthy volunteers, two were conducted versus placebo, and two compared dupilumab with other treatments. The follow-up period ranged between 29 days and 32 weeks. The results demonstrated a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and an increase in SCH on eczematous lesions for patients with sustained response to dupilumab treatment and observed improvements in ET and filaggrin (FLG) staining, which further support the efficacy of JAK inhibitors in enhancing skin barrier function. Conclusions: This review underscores the efficacy of IL-4/IL-13 inhibitors in improving skin barrier function. However, the limited number of studies focusing on JAK inhibitors and the overall lack of RCTs highlight the need for further research to establish the definitive role of IL-4/IL-13 inhibitors and JAK inhibitors in the restoration of the skin barrier. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Skin barrier dysfunction and thin epidermis are hallmarks of sensitive skin and contribute to premature aging. Avenanthramides are the primary bioactive components of colloidal oatmeal, a commonly used treatment to enhance skin barrier function. This study investigated the relationship between skin barrier function and epidermal characteristics and explored the potential of dihydroavenanthramide D (dhAvD), a synthetic avenanthramide, to improve the skin barrier. We observed a significant correlation between impaired skin barrier function and decreased epidermal thickness, suggesting that a weakened barrier contributes to increased sensitivity. Our in vitro results in HaCaT cells demonstrated that dhAvD enhances keratinocyte proliferation, migration, and tight junction protein expression, thereby strengthening the skin barrier. To mimic skin barrier dysfunction, we treated keratinocytes and full-thickness skin equivalents with IL-4 and IL-13, cytokines that are implicated in atopic dermatitis, and confirmed the downregulation of tight junction and differentiation markers. Furthermore, dhAvD treatment restored the barrier function and normalized the expression of key epidermal components, such as tight junction proteins and natural moisturizing factors, in keratinocytes treated with inflammatory cytokines. In the reconstructed human skin model, dhAvD promoted both epidermal and dermal restoration. These findings suggest that dhAvD has the potential to alleviate skin sensitivity and improve skin barrier function.

Atopic dermatitis is a common allergic skin disease characterized by eczema, dryness, and severe itching, which has a significant impact on patients' quality of life. Its pathogenesis involves immune dysregulation and impaired skin barrier function. In this study, the therapeutic potential of Ampelopsis brevipedunculata (Maxim.) Trautv for alleviating atopic dermatitis symptoms was investigated using the NC/Nga mouse model. A. brevipedunculata (Maxim.) Trautv was effective in attenuating the atopic dermatitis-like epidermal thickening and the immune cell infiltration in the skin lesions induced by the atopic dermatitis ointment. Additionally, A. brevipedunculata (Maxim.) Trautv suppressed the production of inflammatory mediators and chemokines associated with atopic dermatitis progression. In addition, A. brevipedunculata (Maxim.) Trautv exhibited restorative effects on skin barrier dysfunction by increasing the expression of key barrier proteins. Mechanistically, A. brevipedunculata (Maxim.) Trautv modulated the mitogen-activated protein kinase pathway and inhibited nuclear factor-kappa B activation. These findings highlight the potential of A. brevipedunculata (Maxim.) Trautv as a promising therapeutic agent for treating atopic dermatitis and provide insight into its mechanisms of action. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Background Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by skin barrier dysfunction and immune dysregulation. Autophagy, which is important for the epidermal differentiation, is impaired in AD. The treatment with dupilumab, an interleukin (IL)‐4/IL‐13 receptor blocker, has been shown to reduce skin inflammation and restore the skin barrier. Objectives This study aimed to investigate the effect of dupilumab on the expression of key proteins involved in autophagy and lysosomal degradation. Methods We performed immunofluorescence staining and microscopic analyses of skin specimens of AD patients, taken before and under (6–10 weeks) therapy with dupilumab, to investigate the expression of autophagy‐related (ATG) 5 and ATG7 proteins, beclin‐1, microtubule‐associated protein light chain 3 (LC3B), sequestosome‐1 (p62), lysosomal proteases (cathepsins B, D and L), serine protease inhibitors (SERPINB3, SERPINB4) as well as IL‐33 and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP). Results The expression of LC3B and p62 as well as SERPINB3 and SERPINB4 was highly increased in untreated AD skin compared to non‐lesional skin and normal skin and decreased upon dupilumab therapy. In contrast, the AD‐associated increased expression of both ATG5 and ATG7 further increased under therapy. Before therapy, cathepsin D and L expression levels were significantly lower compared to normal skin, but increased following the initiation of dupilumab therapy. The increased expression of IL‐33 and TSLP in the epidermis of AD patients correlated with that of LC3B and p62. Conclusions Our study provides further evidence that autophagy is inhibited in lesional AD skin owing to lysosomal dysfunction. Upon dupilumab therapy, a restoration of dysregulated key players of autophagy is observed.

Abstract Introduction The aim of this study was to assess the efficacy and safety of 15% azelaic acid (AzA) gel in treating acne-induced post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). The effects of 15% AzA gel on acne, skin barrier function, and quality of life were also evaluated. Methods A total of 72 patients with mild to moderate acne were enrolled in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Patients were divided into two groups: patients in the AzA group applied 15% AzA gel twice daily for 12 weeks, and those in the placebo group applied AzA-free gel. Clinical evaluations using non-invasive skin detection technologies, including VISIA skin analysis, dermoscopy, and skin physiological function tests, were performed at 0, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Main outcome measures included the post-acne hyperpigmentation index (PAHPI), melanin, hemoglobin, individual typology angle, water content, transepidermal water loss, and sebum. Investigator Global Assessment) and Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) assessments were conducted at weeks 0 and 12. Adverse reactions were recorded. Results Of the 72 patients at study initiation, 60 completed the trial. At 8 and 12 weeks, patients in the AzA group showed significantly reduced PAHPI for PIE lesions compared to baseline and patients receiving placebo (P

Intracellular pathogens including Staphylococcus aureus contribute to the non‐healing phenotype of chronic wounds. Lactobacilli, well known as beneficial bacteria, are also reported to modulate the immune system, yet their role in cutaneous immunity remains largely unknown. We explored the therapeutic potential of bacteria‐free postbiotics, bioactive lysates of lactobacilli, to reduce intracellular S. aureus colonization and promote healing. Fourteen postbiotics derived from various lactobacilli species were screened, and Latilactobacillus curvatus BGMK2‐41 was selected for further analysis based on the most efficient ability to reduce intracellular infection by S. aureus diabetic foot ulcer clinical isolate and S. aureus USA300. Treatment of both infected keratinocytes in vitro and infected human skin ex vivo with BGMK2‐41 postbiotic cleared S. aureus. Keratinocytes treated in vitro with BGMK2‐41 upregulated expression of antimicrobial response genes, of which DEFB4, ANG, and RNASE7 were also found upregulated in treated ex vivo human skin together with CAMP exclusively upregulated ex vivo. Furthermore, BGMK2‐41 postbiotic treatment has a multifaceted impact on the wound healing process. Treatment of keratinocytes stimulated cell migration and the expression of tight junction proteins, while in ex vivo human skin BGMK2‐41 increased expression of anti‐inflammatory cytokine IL‐10, promoted re‐epithelialization, and restored the epidermal barrier via upregulation of tight junction proteins. Together, this provides a potential therapeutic approach for persistent intracellular S. aureus infections. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background Objective Methods Results Conclusion Current animal models of sensitive skin do not adequately reflect the objective symptoms or physiological manifestations observed in human sensitive skin.To construct and validate a sensitive skin model in mice.Tape stripping (TS) was used to induce partial mechanical disruption of the lipid film and stratum corneum. Subsequently, propylene glycol (PG) was applied to disrupt the lipid structure in the skin barrier, and capsaicin (CS) activate transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) receptors of keratinocytes to simulate the formation of sensitive skin. Evident itching and tingling sensations, scaly skin, vasodilation, local congestion, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elevated TRPV1 expression, and inflammatory symptoms were subsequently evaluated.TS combined with PG and CS application resulted in skin flakes; skin barrier disruption; vascular dilation; increased itching, stinging, and inflammation; TRPV1 upregulation in the epidermis; and a significant increase in lactic acid‐induced itching and stinging.Using a combination of TS and PG, and CS application, a mouse model of sensitive skin was successfully established involving various skin phenotypes and physiological manifestations, including skin flakes, vasodilation, increased blood flow and TEWL, itching and stinging sensations, inflammation, and elevated TRPV1 expression. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background Objective Methods Results Conclusion There is a growing number of patients suffering from sensitive skin secondary to acne, but its prevalence and influencing factors are not yet well‐understood.The aim of this study is to investigate the nonlinear relationship between air pollutants and secondary sensitive skin in acne patients.A cross‐sectional study comprising 4325 acne outpatients in China was carried out between September 2021 and December 2022, employing a simple random sampling approach. Air pollutants data was derived from the nearest air quality monitoring station corresponding to the subjects' residential locations. Furthermore, socio‐economic characteristics, biological attributes, and lifestyle data of patients were acquired via questionnaire surveys. The data were subsequently analyzed utilizing the XGBoost machine learning model.A nonlinear relationship has been observed between secondary sensitive skin in acne patients and various factors, including particulate matter (PM2.5), inhalable particulate matter (PM10), ozone (O3), sulfur dioxide (SO2), nitrogen dioxide (NO2), carbon monoxide (CO), the severity of depression, different levels of exercise intensity, acne grading, frequency of sunscreen application, gender, and age.The occurrence of secondary sensitive skin in acne patients be mitigated through the implementation of measures such as the control of air pollutant emissions, regulation of negative emotions, and improvement of personal lifestyle. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives Methods Results Conclusion To achieve a more beautiful and younger appearance, reducing wrinkles is a key concern. The process of wrinkle formation is complex and the development of truly effective cosmetic ingredients to reduce wrinkles remains a challenge. Recent studies have revealed a close relationship between wrinkles and skin thinning, suggesting that preventing skin thinning could also prevent wrinkle formation. In this study, we examined the role of extracellular adenosine triphosphate (eATP) in the progression of thinning, as eATP reportedly increases skin ageing factors, such as senescence‐associated secreted phenotype (SASP) factors in epidermal cells. We determined the effects of Mentha piperita leaf extract on suppressing eATP to reduce thinning and wrinkles.Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels were measured in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) in the presence of M. piperita leaf extract. Dryness, high pH, and UVB radiation were used as extrinsic ageing factors. Intrinsic skin ageing was evaluated by comparing cells from adults (AD‐NHEK) and newborns (NB‐NHEK). A placebo‐controlled in vivo study was carried out with a formulation containing 1% M. piperita leaf extract.The eATP levels were significantly higher in AD‐NHEK compared with that in NB‐NHEK cells. M. piperita leaf extract significantly decreased eATP levels in adult cells. Extrinsic ageing factors increased eATP levels in NHEK, whereas M. piperita leaf extract significantly suppressed eATP under all conditions. The active components of M. piperita leaf extract, luteolin glucuronide and rosmarinic acid, also decreased eATP. Moreover, compared with placebo lotion, M. piperita leaf extract‐formulated lotion markedly increased dermal thickness and reduced wrinkles associated with crow's feet and the neck area.We demonstrated for the first time that M. piperita leaf extract containing rosmarinic acid and luteolin‐7‐O‐glucuronide has the potential to reduce eATP release from epidermal keratinocytes. An increase in eATP was observed not only during inflammation but also during natural ageing. Furthermore, the in vivo experiment revealing that 1% M. piperita leaf extract‐containing lotion improved dermal thinning and wrinkles across multiple areas is attributed to the amelioration of dermal thinning. Thus, our data suggest the possibility of a novel cosmetic approach for reducing skin ageing by reducing eATP‐mediated dermal thinning. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A sunscreen product is allowed to be marketed if a protection is provided against ultraviolets (UV) including UVA rays and UVB rays expressed by the sun protection factor (SPF). UVB is radiation that is in the region of the ultraviolet spectrum which extends from about 290 to 320 nm in wavelength and that is primarily responsible for sunburn, ageing of the skin, and the development of skin cancer. Thus, since April 2009, the Bureau Interprofessionnel d'Etudes Analytiques (BIPEA) set up a proficiency testing scheme (PTS) for the determination of SPF in vivo of sunscreen products according to ISO 24444 standard [Cosmetics ‐ Sun protection test methods ‐ in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)] to evaluate the analytical performances of laboratories on these analyses. This PTS gathers twenty‐six laboratories around the world with one trial a year. For each test, the statistical treatment of the data is performed according to ISO 13528 standard [Statistical methods for use in proficiency testing by interlaboratory comparison]. The assigned and tolerance values are calculated from the participants' data and the performances of the laboratories are evaluated individually and collectively according to ISO 17043 standard [Conformity assessment ‐ General requirements for proficiency testing]. This paper presents the design of the PT program, its development, and an attentive analysis of laboratories results, which highlight the global performances obtained by laboratories on this type of analysis. The evaluation of the results shows, in fact, a relatively constant dispersion of data since the implementation of the PT program (variability between 10% and 50%). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Method Results Conclusion Exploring the effects of age on microbial community structure and understanding the effects of chronological ageing as well as sun exposure on microbial community diversity.The microbial characteristics of the facial skin of 98 adult women aged 18–70 years were studied using 16S rRNA gene sequencing, and differences based on age and reported sun exposure were assessed.The cheek skin's bacterial diversity and richness increased with age. The relative abundance of Cutibacterium decreased with age, while the relative abundance of Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, Paracoccus, Micrococcus, Kocuria, Kytococcus, and Chryseobacterium increased. In addition, an increase in Micrococcus and a decrease in Cutibacterium were observed in volunteers with more than 2 h of daily sun exposure compared to volunteers with <2 h of daily sun exposure. Under low‐sunlight conditions, Cutibacterium was more prevalent in the youth group, and Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, and Kytococcus were more prevalent in the older group.The diversity and composition of the bacterial community on the cheeks are affected by age and extrinsic factors (sun exposure) may also play a role in this. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Psoriasis is characterized by an aberrant immune response due to myeloid dendritic cells and T helper cells intertwining with keratinocyte hyperproliferation. Skin integrity alterations may predispose patients to physiological imbalances, such as xerosis, reduced elasticity, and increased friability. This study aims to assess the epidermal barrier dysfunction in chronic plaque psoriasis and gain a comprehensive view of the dynamic changes in the epidermal barrier during various topical therapies. Adult patients with chronic plaque psoriasis were enrolled in this observational study. For each patient, skin barrier parameters, stratum corneum hydration (SCH), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elasticity, erythema, and melanin levels were measured in lesional and non-lesional skin. Two extensions of the initial study design, with subsequent epidermal barrier determinations, were made as follows: one in which patients with moderate psoriasis were treated with clobetasol propionate 0.5% and the second one in which mild psoriasis was treated with either clobetasol propionate 0.5% or clobetasol propionate 0.5% with 10% urea. TEWL and erythema were found to be higher in the sites affected by psoriatic lesions than the unaffected sites, while SCH and elasticity were decreased. Severe psoriasis presented with higher TEWL (p = 0.032), erythema (p = 0.002), and lower SCH (p < 0.001) compared with the mild and moderate forms. SCH significantly improved during clobetasol propionate 0.5% treatment (p = 0.015). Clobetasol propionate 0.5% with 10% urea was found to be superior to clobetasol propionate 0.5% in improving TEWL and SCH in psoriasis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Plant polysaccharides have various biological activities. However, few studies have been conducted on the skin barrier of Prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharide extract (PURP). Materials and methods: The proportions of polysaccharides, monosaccharides and proteins were determined by extracting polysaccharides from fruit meal using water. The healing rate was measured by cell scratch assays. SDS‐damaged reconstructed human epidermal models, an acetone–ether‐induced mouse model and an IL‐4‐induced cellular inflammation model were used to detect the effects of polysaccharides on the phenotype, HA, TEWL, and TEER, with further characterizations performed using QRT‐PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence (IF) assays. Results: PURP contained 35.73% polysaccharides and 11.1% proteins. PURP promoted cell migration and increased skin thickness in a reconstructed human epidermis model. The TEWL significantly decreased, and the HA content significantly increased. PURP significantly increased the TEER and decreased the permeability of the SDS‐damaged reconstructed human epidermis model. Claudin‐3, Claudin‐4, and Claudin‐5 were significantly upregulated. IF and Western blot analysis revealed that the Claudin‐4 level significantly increased after treatment with PURP. Claudin‐1, Claudin‐3, Claudin‐4, and Claudin‐5 gene expression and IF and immunohistochemical staining were significantly increased in mice treated with acetone–ether. PURP promoted the expression of Claudin‐1, Claudin‐3, Claudin‐4, and Claudin‐5 after treatment with 100 ng/mL IL‐4. PURP also downregulated the expression of NO, IL6, TNFα and NFκB in Raw 264.7 cells and in a mouse model. Conclusion: We hypothesize that PURP may repair the skin barrier by promoting the expression of the claudin family and can assist in skin therapy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Inflammatory skin diseases such as atopic eczema (atopic dermatitis [AD]) affect children and adults globally. In AD, the skin barrier is impaired on multiple levels. Underlying factors include genetic, chemical, immunologic, and microbial components. Increased skin pH in AD is part of the altered microbial microenvironment that promotes overgrowth of the skin microbiome with Staphylococcus aureus. The secretion of virulence factors, such as toxins and proteases, by S aureus further aggravates the skin barrier deficiency and additionally disrupts the balance of an already skewed immune response. Skin commensal bacteria, however, can inhibit the growth and pathogenicity of S aureus through quorum sensing. Therefore, restoring a healthy skin microbiome could contribute to remission induction in AD. This review discusses direct and indirect approaches to targeting the skin microbiome through modulation of the skin pH; UV treatment; and use of prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics. Furthermore, exploratory techniques such as skin microbiome transplantation, ozone therapy, and phage therapy are discussed. Finally, we summarize the latest findings on disease and microbiome modification through targeted immunomodulatory systemic treatments and biologics. We believe that targeting the skin microbiome should be considered a crucial component of successful AD treatment in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Our search for plant-derived ceramides from sustainable sources led to the discovery of ceramides and glucosylceramides in wine lees. Objective: This study evaluated the efficacy and safety of wine lees extract (WLE)-derived ceramides and glucosylceramides in enhancing skin barrier function. Methods: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted with 30 healthy Japanese subjects aged 20–64. Subjects were allocated to receive either the WLE-derived ceramides and glucosylceramides (test group) or placebo for 12 weeks. The primary outcome was transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and secondary outcomes included skin hydration, visual analog scale (VAS) of itching sensation, and the Japanese Skindex-29. Results: One participant withdrew for personal reasons, resulting in 29 subjects for data analysis (placebo n = 15; test n = 14). The test group showed a tendency of lower TEWL compared to the placebo after 8 weeks (p = 0.07). Furthermore, after 12 weeks of administration, the test group had significantly lower TEWL than the placebo (p = 0.04). On the other hand, no significant differences were observed in the secondary outcome parameters. No adverse events related to the supplements were reported. Conclusions: Oral supplementation of WLE-derived ceramides and glucosylceramides is a prominent and safe approach to enhancing skin barrier function and health. Trial registration: (UMIN000050422). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Copyright of Die Dermatologie is the property of Springer Nature and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)