362 results on '"undular bore"'
Search Results
2. Undular Bore Due to a Low Pressure or Bottom Trough Moving at the Critical Speed
- Author
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Grue, John
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
3. Oscillatory and regularized shock waves for a modified Serre–Green–Naghdi system.
- Author
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Bolbot, Daria, Mitsotakis, Dimitrios, and Tzavaras, Athanasios E.
- Subjects
- *
TRAVELING waves (Physics) , *SHOCK waves , *SHALLOW-water equations , *WATER waves , *WAVE equation , *HEAT equation - Abstract
The Serre–Green–Naghdi equations of water wave theory have been widely employed to study undular bores. In this study, we introduce a modified Serre–Green–Naghdi system incorporating the effect of an artificial term that results in dispersive and dissipative dynamics. We show that the modified system effectively approximates the classical Serre–Green–Naghdi equations over sufficiently extended time intervals and admits dispersive–diffusive shock waves as traveling wave solutions. The traveling waves converge to the entropic shock wave solution of the shallow water equations when the dispersion and diffusion approach zero in a moderate dispersion regime. These findings contribute to an understanding of the formation of dispersive shock waves in the classical Serre–Green–Naghdi equations and the effects of diffusion in the generation and propagation of undular bores. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
4. On the formulation of energy conservation in the eeKdV equation.
- Author
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Norevik, Anders M. and Kalisch, Henrik
- Abstract
The Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation is a well-known model equation for unidirectional shallow-water (long) surface waves. The equation includes dispersion and weak non-linearity. The derivation of the equation originates in assuming that the velocity potential takes the form of an asymptotic expansion, and applying this in the classical surface wave problem. While a typical assumption on the relative size of non-dimensional key parameters introduced in the derivation will give the KdV equation as a final result, one can change the assumption on the relative size of parameters, and end up with an equation including terms in higher orders in desired parameters. The present article presents the derivation of an extended form referred to as the eeKdV equation. Information regarding various properties of the flow can be found by studying the derivation of the eeKdV equation itself, and some of the relations found can be used for studying the energy balance of a system modeled by the equation. In line with previous work for the KdV equation, we present here corresponding formulations of energy balance laws for an inertial reference frame, in context of the eeKdV equation. We also present a partial verification of the KdV and eeKdV energy flux expressions by looking at a far-field, uniform flow situation, as well as performing a numerical study to confirm the assumed behaviour of the error in the eeKdV energy equation in the context of a undular bore flow setup. Further, conserved integrals for the eeKdV equation are presented and numerically checked. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
5. Experimental and theoretical study of longitudinal undular bores generated by fracture
- Author
-
Hooper, Curtis
- Subjects
Photoelasticity ,Undular bore ,Solid mechanics ,Viscoelasticity ,Nonlinear waves - Abstract
Undular bores, or dispersive shock waves, are non-stationary waves propagating as oscillatory transitions between two basic states, in which the oscillatory structure gradually expands and grows in amplitude with distance travelled. They have been widely studied both experimentally and theoretically, most commonly in the context of fluids. They occur in nature and have been photographed and reported, for example, in rivers and in the atmosphere. Similar wave structures have been observed in solids during various experiments, but have not been linked to undular bores. Therefore, they have not been studied theoretically using the methods that have successfully been used in other areas. No dedicated study of the waves has been reported. In this thesis, an important new mechanism for the generation of undular bores is reported. Using single-point and multi-point high-speed photoelasticity, the generation of undular bores in homogeneous, solid polymethylmethacrylate pre-strained bars of constant rectangular cross section by natural and induced tensile fracture is demonstrated. An extended Boussinesq type equation is obtained from within the framework of three-dimensional dynamic nonlinear elasticity to describe the propagation of a longitudinal bulk strain wave in a nonlinear elastic bar. Such equation is necessary to capture higher order nonlinear effects that are observed at the strains encountered in the tensile fracture experiments. A Gardner equation is derived as a uni-directional model by looking for a solution in the form of an asymptotic multiple scales expansion. The leading order viscoelastic term is introduced from a suitable spring and dashpot model, and higher order nonlinear and dispersive corrections are introduced based on the extended Korteweg - de Vries equation for a hyperelastic rod, which results in the viscoelastic extended Korteweg - de Vries (veKdV) equation. The veKdV equation is solved using a pseudospectral method, with an initial profile that is numerically fitted to experimental measurements that are taken close to the fracture site. For the distances relevant to the experiments, the veKdV equation is shown to provide very good agreement with the key observed experimental features for suitable choice of material parameters. A robust methodology for fitting of the unknown parameters is presented, which is based on the construction of the appropriate analytical solutions for some limiting regimes. Some local features at the front of the bore are also captured reasonably well by the linearisation near the nonzero pre-strain level. For this equation, an analytical solution is constructed in terms of a certain integral of the Airy function. From this solution, simple formulae are derived which describe the key features of the bore front in terms of material parameters and characteristics at fracture. Predictions are made with the formulae based on the speed and slope of the wave close to the fracture site obtained from experimental measurements, and later verified by comparing to the relevant experimental profile. The experimental and theoretical approaches presented open new avenues and analytical tools for the study and applications of dispersive shock waves in solids. Such waves could be present in the signals generated by earthquakes, fracking and other similar events involving transverse fracture of an appropriately pre-strained waveguide.
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
6. Oscillatory and regularized shock waves for a dissipative Peregrine–Boussinesq system.
- Author
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Brudvik-Lindner, Larkspur, Mitsotakis, Dimitrios, and Tzavaras, Athanasios E
- Subjects
- *
SHOCK waves , *TRAVELING waves (Physics) , *STOCHASTIC convergence - Abstract
We consider a dissipative, dispersive system of the Boussinesq type, which describes wave phenomena in scenarios where dissipation plays a significant role. Examples include undular bores in rivers or oceans, where turbulence-induced dissipation significantly influences their behavior. In this study, we demonstrate that the proposed system admits traveling wave solutions known as diffusive-dispersive shock waves. These solutions can be categorized as oscillatory and regularized shock waves, depending on the interplay between dispersion and dissipation effects. By comparing numerically computed solutions with laboratory data, we observe that the proposed model accurately captures the behavior of undular bores over a broad range of phase speeds. Traditionally, undular bores have been approximated using the original Peregrine system, which, even though it doesn't possess these as traveling wave solutions, tends to offer accurate approximations within suitable time scales. To shed light on this phenomenon, we demonstrate that the discrepancy between the solutions of the dissipative Peregrine system and the non-dissipative counterpart is proportional to the product of the dissipation coefficient and the observation time. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
7. High Order Predictor–Corrector Cubic B-Spline Collocation Method for Modeling Solitary Waves
- Author
-
Saka, Bülent, Hepson, Ozlem Ersoy, and Dağ, İdris
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
8. On adjustable undular bore profiles based on the modified steady KdV–Burgers equation.
- Author
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Cheng, Sixue and Liu, Haijiang
- Subjects
- *
EQUATIONS , *SPEED - Abstract
In this study, a speed parameter is introduced into the steady Korteweg–de Vries (KdV)–Burgers equation which enables the theoretical undular bore profiles to be adjustable with a proper combination of the speed parameter and the viscous damping parameter. A new criterion for identifying the above two bores is then proposed with respect to these two parameters, whose influence on the undular bore profile is then discussed. For the theoretical solution with a small damping, error after introducing the variable speed parameter is limited. A large speed parameter corresponds to a wide range of acceptable dampings. From the energy perspective, it is confirmed that the speed parameter also denotes the nonlinearity effect. In addition, comparison between the theoretical and experimental results shows the superiority of the present model over the traditional model, which also reveals the physical meanings of the present model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
9. Integration of the RLW equation using higher-order predictor–corrector scheme and quintic B-spline collocation method
- Author
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Saka, Bülent, Dağ, İdris, and Hepson, Ozlem Ersoy
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
10. Whitham shocks and resonant dispersive shock waves governed by the higher order Korteweg--de Vries equation.
- Author
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Baqer, Saleh and Smyth, Noel F.
- Subjects
- *
SHOCK waves , *MODULATION theory , *WATER waves , *FLUID dynamics , *FLUID-film bearings - Abstract
The addition of higher order asymptotic corrections to the Korteweg--de Vries equation results in the extended Korteweg--de Vries (eKdV) equation. These higher order terms destabilize the dispersive shock wave solution, also termed an undular bore in fluid dynamics, and result in the emission of resonant radiation. In broad terms, there are three possible dispersive shock wave regimes: radiating dispersive shock wave (RDSW), cross-over dispersive shock wave (CDSW) and travelling dispersive shock wave (TDSW). While there are existing solutions for the RDSW and TDSW regimes obtained using modulation theory, there is no existing solution for the CDSW regime. Modulation theory and the associated concept of a Whitham shock are used to obtain this CDSW solution. In addition, it is found that the resonant wavetrain emitted by the eKdV equation with water wave coefficients has a minimal amplitude. This minimal amplitude is explained based on the developed Whitham modulation theory. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
11. Theoretical estimates of the parameters of longitudinal undular bores in polymethylmethacrylate bars based on their measured initial speeds.
- Author
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Hooper, Curtis G., Khusnutdinova, Karima R., Huntley, Jonathan M., and Ruiz, Pablo D.
- Subjects
- *
POLYMETHYLMETHACRYLATE , *STRAIN rate , *LONGITUDINAL waves , *SHEAR waves , *PHOTOELASTICITY , *ELASTIC modulus - Abstract
We study the evolution of the longitudinal release wave that is generated by induced tensile fracture as it propagates through solid rectangular polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) bars of different constant cross-section. High-speed multi-point photoelasticity is used to register the strain wave at three distances from the fracture site in each experiment. In all cases, oscillations develop at the bottom of the release wave that exhibit the qualitative features of an undular bore. The pre-strain, post-strain, strain rate of the release wave and the cross-section dimensions determine the evolution of the oscillations. From the wave speed and strain rate close to the fracture site, we estimate the strain rate of the release wave as well as the growth of the amplitude and duration of the leading oscillation away from the fracture site by using formulae derived from the simple analytical solution of the linearized Gardner equation (linearized near the pre-strain level at fracture). Our estimates are then compared to experimental data, where good agreements of these three parameters are found between the predictions of the model and the experimental observations. Thus, we developed an approach to estimating the key characteristics of the developing unsteady undular bore based on the measured initial speeds of the longitudinal and shear waves. This does not require a prior knowledge of the elastic moduli for the conditions of the experiments, which in PMMA are known to be strain rate dependent. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
12. A Time-Domain Analytic Solution of Flow-Induced Undular Bores.
- Author
-
Chen, Cheng-Tsung, Lee, Jaw-Fang, Chanson, Hubert, Lin, Kuei-Ting, and Lin, Chun-Jih
- Subjects
BOUNDARY value problems ,FLOW velocity ,INITIAL value problems ,CHANNEL flow ,WATER waves ,WATER currents - Abstract
In this study, the problem of surface waves induced by water flow in a flow channel was investigated. The mathematical model based on the potential wave theory was established, and a new analytic solution to the corresponding initial and boundary value problem was proposed. To confirm our analytic solution, the mathematical model was applied to simulate experiments conducted in a flow channel in the laboratory. Using our analytic solution, water surface elevations and flow velocities at certain locations in the channel were compared with experimental results. Comparisons between our analytic solution and experimental results confirmed our theory that amplitudes and propagating phases are in very close agreement. Our analytic solution can be used to calculate variations in pressure and velocity along the water depth, which are expensive to calibrate and obtain in experiments. Although our analytic solution was established based on linear theory, it is very practical for applications studying the basic properties of surface elevation, velocity, and pressure of the flow field induced by water current both in space and time. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
13. Dispersive shock waves for the Boussinesq Benjamin–Ono equation.
- Author
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Nguyen, Lu Trong Khiem and Smyth, Noel Frederick
- Subjects
- *
BOUSSINESQ equations , *SHOCK waves , *NUMERICAL solutions to equations , *NONLINEAR wave equations , *ORDINARY differential equations , *INVARIANT sets - Abstract
In this work, the dispersive shock wave (DSW) solution of a Boussinesq Benjamin–Ono (BBO) equation, the standard Boussinesq equation with dispersion replaced by nonlocal Benjamin–Ono dispersion, is derived. This DSW solution is derived using two methods, DSW fitting and from a simple wave solution of the Whitham modulation equations for the BBO equation. The first of these yields the two edges of the DSW, while the second yields the complete DSW solution. As the Whitham modulation equations could not be set in Riemann invariant form, the ordinary differential equations governing the simple wave are solved using a hybrid numerical method coupled to the dispersive shock fitting which provides a suitable boundary condition. The full DSW solution is then determined, which is found to be in excellent agreement with numerical solutions of the BBO equation. This hybrid method is a suitable and relatively simple method to fully determine the DSW solution of a nonlinear dispersive wave equation for which the (hyperbolic) Whitham modulation equations are known, but their Riemann invariant form is not. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
14. Propagation of solitary waves and undular bores over variable topography
- Author
-
Tiong, Wei K.
- Subjects
532 ,Undular bore ,Solitary wave ,Korteweg-de Vries equation ,Whitham equations ,Variable topography ,Riemann invariants ,Adiabatic and non-adiabatic deformations - Abstract
Description of the interaction of a shallow-water wave with variable topography is a classical and fundamental problem of fluid mechanics. The behaviour of linear waves and isolated solitary waves propagating over an uneven bottom is well understood. Much less is known about the propagation of nonlinear wavetrains over obstacles. For shallow-water waves, the nonlinear wavetrains are often generated in the form of undular bores, connecting two different basic flow states and having the structure of a slowly modulated periodic wave with a solitary wave at the leading edge. In this thesis, we examine the propagation of shallow-water undular bores over a nonuniform environment, and also subject to the effect of weak dissipation (turbulent bottom friction or volume viscosity). The study is performed in the framework of the variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries (vKdV) and variable-coefficient perturbed Korteweg-de Vries (vpKdV) equations. The behaviour of undular bores is compared with that of isolated solitary waves subject to the same external effects. We show that the interaction of the undular bore with variable topography can result in a number of adiabatic and non-adiabatic effects observed in different combinations depending on the specific bottom profile. The effects include: (i) the generation of a sequence of isolated solitons -- an expanding large-amplitude modulated solitary wavetrain propagating ahead of the bore; (ii) the generation of an extended weakly nonlinear wavetrain behind the bore; (iii) the formation of a transient multi-phase region inside the bore; (iv) a nonlocal variation of the leading solitary wave amplitude; (v) the change of the characteristics wavelength in the bore; and (vi) occurrence of a ``modulation phase shift" due to the interaction. The non-adiabatic effects (i) -- (iii) are new and to the best of our knowledge, have not been reported in previous studies. We use a combination of nonlinear modulation theory and numerical simulations to analyse these effects. In our work, we consider four prototypical variable topography profiles in our study: a slowly decreasing depth, a slowly increasing depth , a smooth bump and a smooth hole, which leads to qualitatively different undular bore deformation depending on the geometry of the slope. Also, we consider (numerically) a rapidly varying depth topography, a counterpart of the ``soliton fission" configuration. We show that all the effects mentioned above can also be observed when the undular bore propagates over a rapidly changing bottom . We then consider the modification of the variable topography effects on the undular bore by considering weak dissipation due to turbulent bottom friction or volume viscosity. The dissipation is modelled by appropriate right-hand side terms in the vKdV equation. The developed methods and results of our work can be extended to other problems involving the propagation of undular bores (dispersive shock waves in general) in variable media.
- Published
- 2012
15. A Time-Domain Analytic Solution of Flow-Induced Undular Bores
- Author
-
Cheng-Tsung Chen, Jaw-Fang Lee, Hubert Chanson, Kuei-Ting Lin, and Chun-Jih Lin
- Subjects
current ,undular bore ,time domain ,analytic solution ,Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering ,VM1-989 ,Oceanography ,GC1-1581 - Abstract
In this study, the problem of surface waves induced by water flow in a flow channel was investigated. The mathematical model based on the potential wave theory was established, and a new analytic solution to the corresponding initial and boundary value problem was proposed. To confirm our analytic solution, the mathematical model was applied to simulate experiments conducted in a flow channel in the laboratory. Using our analytic solution, water surface elevations and flow velocities at certain locations in the channel were compared with experimental results. Comparisons between our analytic solution and experimental results confirmed our theory that amplitudes and propagating phases are in very close agreement. Our analytic solution can be used to calculate variations in pressure and velocity along the water depth, which are expensive to calibrate and obtain in experiments. Although our analytic solution was established based on linear theory, it is very practical for applications studying the basic properties of surface elevation, velocity, and pressure of the flow field induced by water current both in space and time.
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
16. Numerical Simulation of Tidal Bore Bono at Kampar River
- Author
-
A. C. Bayu, S. R. Pudjaprasetya, U. J. Wisha, and S. Husrin
- Subjects
Undular bore ,Saint-Venant equations ,Non-hydrostatic numerical scheme ,Mechanical engineering and machinery ,TJ1-1570 - Abstract
A tidal bore is a natural phenomenon usually occur in bays with large tidal waves. Sometimes this large tidal inflow are channeled deep into a river. In Indonesia, this natural phenomenon is found in the Kampar River, which is known as the tidal bore Bono. Sometimes, these tidal bore phenomena disappear, as happened to the Mascaret, tidal bore on the River Seine France. Through an understanding of the formation of tidal bore mechanism, there is hope that the tidal bore Bono in Kampar River can be preserved. In this paper, the occurrence of tidal bore Bono is simulated using the non-hydrostatic Saint-Venant equation under a staggered grid formulation. To test the accuracy of the implementation, several scenarios of hydraulic jumps were simulated first. The numerical results have shown to quantitatively confirm the analytical formula of bore height and velocity, two parameters that are important to characterize a bore wave. Further, by adopting a model that incorporates the non-hydrostatic pressure, our simulation shows the appearance of an undular bore accompanying the shock front. Finally, by using tidal current data measured along Kampar River estuary, our simulation that employs the actual river topography can show the appearance of tidal bore Bono. Our simulations were shown to be in fair agreement with the measurement.
- Published
- 2019
17. An efficient local meshless method for the equal width equation in fluid mechanics.
- Author
-
Rasoulizadeh, M.N., Ebadi, M.J., Avazzadeh, Z., and Nikan, O.
- Subjects
- *
FLUID mechanics , *FINITE difference method , *SOLITON collisions , *EQUATIONS , *AUTHORSHIP - Abstract
This paper proposes an accurate and robust meshless approach for the numerical solution of the nonlinear equal width equation. The numerical technique is applied for approximating the spatial variable derivatives of the model based on the localized radial basis function-finite difference (RBF-FD) method. Another implicit technique based on θ − weighted and finite difference methods is also employed for approximating the time variable derivatives. The stability analysis of the approach is demonstrated by employing the Von Neumann approach. Next, six test problems are solved including single solitary wave, fusion of two solitary waves, fusion of three solitary waves, soliton collision, undular bore, and the Maxwellian initial condition. Then, the L 2 and L ∞ norm errors for the first example and the I 1 , I 2 , and I 3 invariants for the other examples are calculated to assess accuracy of the method. Finally, the validity, efficiency and accuracy of the method are compared with those of other techniques in the literature. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
18. WAVE GENERATION ON AN INCLINED OPEN CHANNEL WITH A BUMP.
- Author
-
Magdalena, Ikha and Wiryanto, Leo Hari
- Subjects
SHALLOW-water equations ,FINITE volume method ,REYNOLDS number ,BOUSSINESQ equations ,SHEAR waves - Abstract
A uniform flow on an open channel is studied in this paper. Shallow water equations are used as the model by involving the bottom topography. In this problem, we focus on incline bottom and put a bump on it, so that the flow generates a surface wave. The model is extended by energy dissipation through tangential shear and the energy dissipation by shearing normal to the flow. In non-dimensional variables, the profile of the fluid surface is observed as waves growing to split and propagating, depending on the type of the bump, parameters angle of the channel, Froude number and Reynolds number. When the angle is not zero, we found that the waves propagate downward and possible appearing secondary waves or undular bore, that does not occur for zero angles but agrees to the model of Boussinesq equations. To get the accurate result with purely showing the damping effect from the equation, the finite volume method has been applied on a staggered grid that is free from damping error to solve the equations numerically. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2020
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
19. Wave Breaking in Undular Bores with Shear Flows
- Author
-
Bjørnestad, Maria, Kalisch, Henrik, Abid, Malek, Kharif, Christian, and Brun, Mats
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
20. Nonlinear wave resonance from bottom vibrations in uniform open-channel flow.
- Author
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Tyvand, Peder A. and Bestehorn, Michael
- Subjects
- *
OPEN-channel flow , *NONLINEAR waves , *RESONANCE , *FROUDE number , *GROUP velocity - Abstract
It is known from linear theory that bottom oscillations in uniform open-channel flow can produce resonant surface waves with zero group velocity and diverging amplitude (Tyvand and Torheim 2012). This resonance exists for Froude numbers smaller than one, at a critical frequency dependent on the Froude number. This resonance phenomenon is studied numerically in the time domain, with fully nonlinear free-surface conditions. An oscillatory 2D bottom source is started, and the local elevation at resonance grows until it may reach a saturation amplitude. Four waves exist at subcritical Froude numbers, where resonance represents the third and the fourth wave merging. In the zero-frequency limit, the dispersive second and fourth wave merge into a steady wave with finite group velocity and amplitude, and no other periodic waves exist. In the time-dependent nonlinear analysis at zero frequency, a transient undular bore may emerge as the dominating phenomenon. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2020
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
21. The Evolution of Undular Bore in Coastal Zone: Effect of Bottom Slope, Friction and Special Topography.
- Author
-
Zhao, Xi, Ren, Zhiyuan, and Liu, Hua
- Subjects
- *
COASTS , *SUBMARINE topography , *TOPOGRAPHY , *FRICTION , *BIOLOGICAL evolution , *TSUNAMI hazard zones - Abstract
When tsunami waves propagate into shallow and gentle continental shelves, the effects of submarine topography and wave dispersion lead to the appearance of undular bore. This kind of wave is quite different from the initial tsunami wave in the waveform, and its amplitude is enhanced significantly. The undular bore will cause great and repeated runups on the beach, which brings larger destruction to the coastal region. In order to investigate the characteristics of the propagation of undular bore, this paper simulates the evolution from the sinusoidal long wave to the undular bore and analyzes the influencing factors. The beach slope has an important effect on the development of undular bores in terms of the undulation form, amplitude, wave length and occurrence time. The influence of bottom friction and submarine topography on the undulations and soliton fissions are discussed. These bottom conditions will lead to great change of the waveform and amplitude of undular bores. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2019
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
22. Numerical Simulation of Tidal Bore Bono at Kampar River.
- Author
-
Bayu, A. C., Pudjaprasetya, S. R., Wisha, U. J., and Husrin, S.
- Subjects
COMPUTER simulation ,BORES (Tidal phenomena) ,SHALLOW-water equations - Abstract
A tidal bore is a natural phenomenon usually occur in bays with large tidal waves. Sometimes this large tidal inflow are channeled deep into a river. In Indonesia, this natural phenomenon is found in the Kampar River, which is known as the tidal bore Bono. Sometimes, these tidal bore phenomena disappear, as happened to the Mascaret, tidal bore on the River Seine France. Through an understanding of the formation of tidal bore mechanism, there is hope that the tidal bore Bono in Kampar River can be preserved. In this paper, the occurrence of tidal bore Bono is simulated using the non-hydrostatic Saint-Venant equation under a staggered grid formulation. To test the accuracy of the implementation, several scenarios of hydraulic jumps were simulated first. The numerical results have shown to quantitatively confirm the analytical formula of bore height and velocity, two parameters that are important to characterize a bore wave. Further, by adopting a model that incorporates the non-hydrostatic pressure, our simulation shows the appearance of an undular bore accompanying the shock front. Finally, by using tidal current data measured along Kampar River estuary, our simulation that employs the actual river topography can show the appearance of tidal bore Bono. Our simulations were shown to be in fair agreement with the measurement. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2019
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
23. An efficient local meshless method for the equal width equation in fluid mechanics
- Author
-
Zakieh Avazzadeh, M. N. Rasoulizadeh, O. Nikan, and M.J. Ebadi
- Subjects
Basis (linear algebra) ,Applied Mathematics ,Mathematical analysis ,General Engineering ,Finite difference method ,Fluid mechanics ,Stability (probability) ,Computational Mathematics ,Nonlinear system ,Undular bore ,Norm (mathematics) ,Initial value problem ,Analysis ,Mathematics - Abstract
This paper proposes an accurate and robust meshless approach for the numerical solution of the nonlinear equal width equation. The numerical technique is applied for approximating the spatial variable derivatives of the model based on the localized radial basis function-finite difference (RBF-FD) method. Another implicit technique based on θ − weighted and finite difference methods is also employed for approximating the time variable derivatives. The stability analysis of the approach is demonstrated by employing the Von Neumann approach. Next, six test problems are solved including single solitary wave, fusion of two solitary waves, fusion of three solitary waves, soliton collision, undular bore, and the Maxwellian initial condition. Then, the L 2 and L ∞ norm errors for the first example and the I 1 , I 2 , and I 3 invariants for the other examples are calculated to assess accuracy of the method. Finally, the validity, efficiency and accuracy of the method are compared with those of other techniques in the literature.
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
24. A case study of a thermally ducted undular mesospheric bore accompanied by ripples over the western Himalayan region
- Author
-
Martin G. Mlynczak, M. V. Sunil Krishna, James M. Russell, Gaurav Bharti, S. Sarkhel, M. Sivakandan, and S. Mondal
- Subjects
Atmospheric Science ,010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences ,Airglow ,Front (oceanography) ,Aerospace Engineering ,Astronomy and Astrophysics ,Geophysics ,01 natural sciences ,Atmosphere ,Depth sounding ,Undular bore ,Space and Planetary Science ,0103 physical sciences ,General Earth and Planetary Sciences ,Duct (flow) ,Gravity wave ,Phase velocity ,010303 astronomy & astrophysics ,Geology ,0105 earth and related environmental sciences - Abstract
An undular mesospheric bore event has been recorded over the western Himalayan region in O(1S) 557.7 nm airglow images on a clear and moonless night of 02 October 2018 using a multi-wavelength all-sky imager at Hanle, Leh Ladakh, India (32.77°N, 78.97°E). The bore has a prominent leading dark front followed by trailing waves and it propagates with a mean observed phase velocity of ~31 ± 5 m/s. It also shows a small-scale undulation and clockwise rotation in its phase front. In order to understand the evolution of the bore, vertical temperature profiles from the Sounding of the Atmosphere using Broadband Emission Radiometry (SABER) instrument onboard TIMED satellite and HWM14 wind maps are used. SABER temperature shows a mesospheric inversion layer prior to the occurrence of the bore event which acted as a thermal duct layer to guide the propagation of the bore. The analyses also suggest that inhomogeneity in the duct depth at different parts of the bore’s horizontal extension could lead the small-scale undulations in the bore phase fronts. The same can also be responsible for the rotation of the bore. Additionally, the peak separation of the bore’s trailing waves suggests that large-scale gravity wave interaction with pre-existing thermal duct could be the potential source for the generation of the undular bore at mesospheric height. Furthermore, the present results indicate that neutral instabilities and weakening duct layer in the path of the bore propagation might have accelerated the faster dissipation of the bore’s energy and consequently suppress its long-distance horizontal propagation.
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
25. Comparative analysis of bore propagation over long distances using conventional linear and KdV-based nonlinear Fourier transform
- Author
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Brühl, M. (author), Prins, Peter J. (author), Ujvary, Sebastian (author), Barranco, Ignacio (author), Wahls, S. (author), Liu, Philip L.-F. (author), Brühl, M. (author), Prins, Peter J. (author), Ujvary, Sebastian (author), Barranco, Ignacio (author), Wahls, S. (author), and Liu, Philip L.-F. (author)
- Abstract
In this paper, we study the propagation of bores over a long distance. We employ experimental data as input for numerical simulations using COULWAVE. The experimental flume is extended numerically to an effective relative length of x/h=3000, which allows all far-field solitons to emerge from the undular bore in the simulation data. We apply the periodic KdV-based nonlinear Fourier transform (KdV-NFT) to the time series taken at different numerical gauges and compare the results with those of the conventional Fourier transform. We find that the periodic KdV-NFT reliably predicts the number and the amplitudes of all far-field solitons from the near-field data long before the solitons start to emerge from the bore, even though the propagation is only approximated by the KdV. It is the first time that the predictions of the KdV-NFT are demonstrated over such long distances in a realistic set-up. In contrast, the conventional linear FT is unable to reveal the hidden solitons in the bore. We repeat our analyses using space instead of time series to investigate whether the space or time version of the KdV provides better predictions. Finally, we show how stepwise superposition of the determined solitons, including the nonlinear interactions between individual solitons, returns the analysed initial bore data., Team Sander Wahls
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
26. Dispersive shock waves for the Boussinesq Benjamin–Ono equation
- Author
-
Lu Trong Khiem Nguyen and Noel F. Smyth
- Subjects
Physics ,Shock wave ,Modulation theory ,Undular bore ,Applied Mathematics ,Mechanics ,Benjamin–Ono equation - Abstract
In this work the dispersive shock wave solution of a Boussinesq Benjamin-Ono (BBO) equation, the standard Boussinesq equation with dispersion replaced by nonlocal Benjamin-Ono dispersion, isderived. This dispersive shock wave solution is derived using two methods, dispersive shock wavefitting and from a simple wave solution of theWhitham modulation equations for the BBO equation.The first of these yields the two edges of the dispersive shock wave, while the second yields the complete dispersive shock wave solution. As the Whitham modulation equations could not be set in Riemann invariant form, the ordinary differential equations governing the simple wave are solved using a hybrid numerical method coupled to the dispersive shock fitting which provides a suitable boundary condition. The full dispersive shock wave solution is then determined, which is found to be in excellent agreement with numerical solutions of the BBO equation. This hybrid method is a suitable and relatively simple method to fully determine the dispersive shock wave solution of anonlinear dispersive wave equation for which the (hyperbolic) Whitham modulation equations are known, but their Riemann invariant form is not.
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
27. High Frequency Field Measurements of an Undular Bore Using a 2D LiDAR Scanner.
- Author
-
Martins, Kévin, Bonneton, Philippe, Frappart, Frédéric, Detandt, Guillaume, Bonneton, Natalie, and Blenkinsopp, Chris E.
- Subjects
- *
LIDAR , *BORES (Tidal phenomena) , *ACOUSTIC signal processing , *IMAGING systems in meteorology , *ENVIRONMENTAL impact analysis - Abstract
The secondary wave field associated with undular tidal bores (known as whelps) has been barely studied in field conditions: the wave field can be strongly non-hydrostatic, and the turbidity is generally high. In situ measurements based on pressure or acoustic signals can therefore be limited or inadequate. The intermittent nature of this process in the field and the complications encountered in the downscaling to laboratory conditions also render its study difficult. Here, we present a new methodology based on LiDAR technology to provide high spatial and temporal resolution measurements of the free surface of an undular tidal bore. A wave-by-wave analysis is performed on the whelps, and comparisons between LiDAR, acoustic and pressure-derived measurements are used to quantify the non-hydrostatic nature of this phenomenon. A correction based on linear wave theory applied on individual wave properties improves the results from the pressure transducer (Root mean square error, RMSE of 0.19 m against 0.38 m); however, more robust data is obtained from an upwards-looking acoustic sensor despite high turbidity during the passage of the whelps ( RMSE of 0.05 m). Finally, the LiDAR scanner provides the unique possibility to study the wave geometry: the distribution of measured wave height, period, celerity, steepness and wavelength are presented. It is found that the highest wave from the whelps can be steeper than the bore front, explaining why breaking events are sometimes observed in the secondary wave field of undular tidal bores. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2017
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
28. Novel implicit/explicit local conservative schemes for the regularized long-wave equation and convergence analysis.
- Author
-
Cai, Jiaxiang, Gong, Yuezheng, and Liang, Hua
- Subjects
- *
WAVE equation , *STOCHASTIC convergence , *SPACETIME , *CONSERVATION laws (Mathematics) , *ALGORITHMS - Abstract
Two implicit and two explicit schemes preserving the local momentum conservation laws exactly on any time–space region are proposed for the regularized long-wave equation. With appropriate boundary conditions, the schemes will be energy- and mass-preserving globally. Combining with the momentum conservation laws, we obtain the priori estimates of the numerical solution and the error estimates in l ∞ norm for the proposed implicit schemes. Numerical experiments show the excellent performance of the proposed schemes and the numerical results coincide with the theoretical ones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2017
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
29. Propagation of an Air-Water Interface from Pressurized to Free-Surface Flow in a Circular Pipe.
- Author
-
Bashiri-Atrabi, Hamid, Takashi Hosoda, and Hidekazu Shirai
- Subjects
- *
AIR-water interfaces , *OPEN-channel flow , *PIPE , *FLUID dynamics , *HYDROSTATIC pressure , *BOUSSINESQ equations , *FLUID flow , *WAVE analysis - Abstract
Hydraulic transients with the movement of an interface between pressurized flow and free surface flow can be observed in rapid water emptying in the pipes. This study focuses on air cavity intrusion into horizontal and inclined circular pipes. Laboratory experiments were carried out to observe the negative surge during depressurization in a circular pipe. In order to generate the undular bore in a circular pipe, in some cases a sharp-crested weir at the open end of the horizontal pipe was used. Various behaviors of air cavity were observed for a series of weir heights. A numerical model is proposed and applied to the cavity flow in a circular pipe. To reproduce the undular bore in circular pipes (when water depth is greater than pipe radius), this study derived the depth-averaged shallow water equations with the effects of vertical acceleration using the Boussinesq equation. In this study, the continuity and the momentum equations of free surface and pressurized flows with the hydrostatic and the Boussinesq pressure assumptions have been used. The results from the model showed good agreement with the experimental results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
30. Tsunami Bores in Kitakami River.
- Author
-
Tolkova, Elena and Tanaka, Hitoshi
- Subjects
TSUNAMIS ,SHOCK waves ,TSUNAMI hazard zones ,BORES (Tidal phenomena) - Abstract
The 2011 Tohoku tsunami entered the Kitakami river and propagated there as a train of shock waves, recorded with a 1-min interval at water level stations at Fukuchi, Iino, and the weir 17.2 km from the mouth, where the bulk of the wave was reflected back. The records showed that each bore kept its shape and identity as it traveled a 10.9-km-path Fukuchi-Iino-weir-Iino. Shock handling based on the cross-river integrated classical shock conditions was applied to reconstruct the flow velocity time histories at the measurement sites, to estimate inflow into the river at each site, to evaluate the wave heights of incident and reflected tsunami bores near the weir, and to estimate propagation speed of the individual bores. Theoretical predictions are verified against the measurements. We discuss experiences of exercising the shock conditions with actual tsunami measurements in the Kitakami river, and test applicability of the shallow-water approximation for describing tsunami bores with heights ranging from 0.3 to 4 m in a river segment with a depth of 3-4 m. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
31. Observations of meteotsunami on the Louisiana shelf: a lone soliton with a soliton pack.
- Author
-
Sheremet, Alex, Gravois, Uriah, and Shrira, Victor
- Subjects
METEOTSUNAMIS ,SOLITONS ,ROGUE waves ,MATHEMATICAL models of ocean waves ,KORTEWEG-de Vries equation ,NONLINEAR wave equations - Abstract
The paper reports unique high-resolution observations of meteotsunami by a large array of oceanographic instruments deployed on the Atchafalaya Shelf (Louisiana, USA) in 2008 with the primary aim to study wave dissipation in muddy environments. The meteotsunami event on March 7, 2008, was caused by the passage of a cold front which was monitored by the NOAA NEXRAD radar. The observations of water surface elevations on the shelf show a highly detailed textbook picture of an undular bore (solibore) in the process of its disintegration into a train of solitons. The picture has a striking feature never reported before not only for the meteotsunamis but in other contexts of disintegration of a long-wave perturbation into a sequence of solitons as well-the persistent presence of a single soliton, well ahead of the solibore. Data analysis and simulations based on the celebrated variable-coefficient KdV (vKdV) equation first proposed by Ostrovsky and Pelinovsky (Izv Atmos Ocean Phys 11:37-41, 1975) explain the physics of this phenomenon and suggest that the formation of the lone soliton ahead of the solibore is very likely to be the result of the specific interplay of natural meteotsunami forcing and nearshore bathymetry. The analysis strongly suggests that the patterns of coexisting lone solitons and packets of cnoidal waves should be quite common for meteotsunamis. They were not observed before only because of the scarcity of high-resolution observations. The results highlight the effectiveness of the vKdV equation in providing understanding of the fundamental mechanisms of the complex natural phenomenon that would otherwise require computationally very expensive numerical models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
32. Modulation theory, dispersive shock waves and Gerald Beresford Whitham.
- Author
-
Minzoni, A.A. and Smyth, Noel F.
- Subjects
- *
MODULATION theory , *SHOCK waves , *APPLIED mathematics , *THEORY of wave motion , *NONLINEAR waves - Abstract
Gerald Beresford (GB) Whitham, FRS, (13th December, 1927–26th January, 2014) was one of the leading applied mathematicians of the twentieth century whose work over forty years had a profound, formative impact on research on wave motion across a broad range of areas. Many of the ideas and techniques he developed have now become the standard tools used to analyse and understand wave motion, as the papers of this special issue of Physica D testify. Many of the techniques pioneered by GB Whitham have spread beyond wave propagation into other applied mathematics areas, such as reaction–diffusion, and even into theoretical physics and pure mathematics, in which Whitham modulation theory is an active area of research. GB Whitham’s classic textbook Linear and Nonlinear Waves , published in 1974, is still the standard reference for the applied mathematics of wave motion. In honour of his scientific achievements, GB Whitham was elected a Fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences in 1959 and a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1965. He was awarded the Norbert Wiener Prize for Applied Mathematics in 1980. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
33. Nonlinear disintegration of sine wave in the framework of the Gardner equation.
- Author
-
Kurkina, Oxana, Rouvinskaya, Ekaterina, Talipova, Tatiana, Kurkin, Andrey, and Pelinovsky, Efim
- Subjects
- *
SINE waves , *PARTIAL differential equations , *WATER depth , *INTEGRAL transforms , *KORTEWEG-de Vries equation , *SOLITON collisions - Abstract
Internal tidal wave entering shallow waters transforms into an undular bore and this process can be described in the framework of the Gardner equation (extended version of the Korteweg–de Vries equation with both quadratic and cubic nonlinear terms). Our numerical computations demonstrate the features of undular bore developing for different signs of the cubic nonlinear term. If cubic nonlinear term is negative, and initial wave amplitude is large enough, two undular bores are generated from the two breaking points formed on both crest slopes (within dispersionless Gardner equation). Undular bore consists of one table-top soliton and a group of small soliton-like waves passing through the table-top soliton. If the cubic nonlinear term is positive and again the wave amplitude is large enough, the breaking points appear on crest and trough generating groups of positive and negative soliton-like pulses. This is the main difference with respect to the classic Korteweg–de Vries equation, where the breaking point is single. It is shown also that nonlinear interaction of waves happens similarly to one of scenarios of two-soliton interaction of “exchange” or “overtake” types with a phase shift. If small-amplitude pulses interact with large-amplitude soliton-like pulses, their speed in average is negative in the case when “free” velocity is positive. Nonlinear interaction leads to the generation of higher harmonics and spectrum width increases with amplitude increase independently of the sign of cubic nonlinear term. The breaking asymptotic k 4 / 3 predicted within the dispersionless Gardner equation emerges during the process of undular bore development. The formation of soliton-like perturbations leads to appearance of several spectral peaks which are downshifting with time. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
34. Tsunami Waveforms and Runup of Undular Bores in Coastal Waters.
- Author
-
Xi Zhao, Hua Liu, and Benlong Wang
- Subjects
- *
TSUNAMIS , *OCEAN waves , *THEORY of wave motion , *BOUSSINESQ equations , *BORES (Tidal phenomena) , *MATHEMATICAL models - Abstract
This paper carries out the numerical simulation of tsunami propagation based on the fully nonlinear and highly dispersive Boussinesq model. The numerical results indicate that the waveforms of a tsunami are quite different on steeply and mildly sloping beaches, which cannot be predicted by the analytical solution of the nonlinear shallow water equations. Long wave trains form on the steeply sloping beaches while undular bores emerge on the mildly sloping beaches. The simulation of hypothesized tsunamis in the China Seas provide different wave patterns in the near shore regions, including long wave trains, undular bores, and solitons. In order to study the propagation and run-up of undular bores, a series of undular bores is proposed by sinusoidal and attenuation functions. The properties of the run-up and energy budget of these undular bores are investigated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
35. Radiating dispersive shock waves in non-local optical media.
- Author
-
El, Gennady A. and Smyth, Noel F.
- Subjects
- *
SHOCK waves , *RIEMANN-Hilbert problems , *NEMATIC liquid crystals , *ASYMPTOTIC theory of system theory , *APPROXIMATION theory , *MATHEMATICAL models - Abstract
We consider the step Riemann problem for the system of equations describing the propagation of a coherent light beam in nematic liquid crystals, which is a general system describing nonlinear wave propagation in a number of different physical applications. While the equation governing the light beam is of defocusing nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation type, the dispersive shock wave (DSW) generated from this initial condition has major differences from the standard DSW solution of the defocusing NLS equation. In particular, it is found that the DSW has positive polarity and generates resonant radiation which propagates ahead of it. Remarkably, the velocity of the lead soliton of the DSW is determined by the classical shock velocity. The solution for the radiative wavetrain is obtained using the Wentzel--Kramers--Brillouin approximation. It is shown that for sufficiently small initial jumps the nematic DSW is asymptotically governed by a Korteweg--de Vries equation with the fifth-order dispersion, which explicitly shows the resonance generating the radiation ahead of the DSW. The constructed asymptotic theory is shown to be in good agreement with the results of direct numerical simulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
36. Tsunami Ascending in Rivers as an Undular Bore
- Author
-
Tsuji, Yoshinobu, Yanuma, Takashi, Murata, Isao, Fujiwara, Chizuru, and Bernard, E. N., editor
- Published
- 1991
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
37. Wavelet Galerkin scheme for solving nonlinear dispersive shallow water waves: Application in bore propagation and breaking.
- Author
-
Bakhoday-Paskyabi, M.
- Subjects
- *
WATER waves , *THEORY of wave motion , *IRROTATIONAL flow , *INVISCID flow , *FAST Fourier transforms , *FINITE difference method - Abstract
An accurate and fast numerical method is developed to investigate the nonlinear (linear) shallow water wave propagation over flat (depth-varying) topography in one space dimension within an irrotational and inviscid flow. As physical model, we use a dispersive Boussinesq-type (BT) system for small-amplitude long waves with weak transverse variation. The problem is discretised in space using a wavelet-Galerkin method based on one-periodic Daubechies scaling functions. Assuming periodic boundary conditions, the discretised operators in spatial domain are circulant and skew-symmetric. These characteristics of discretised differential operators allow us to incorporate the Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT) in the matrix operations which results in a substantial improvement in the computational efficiency and accuracy of the numerical solver compared with the conventional finite difference or finite volume methods. We use a four-stage Runge–Kutta method to temporally discretise the governed spatially discretised differential equations. Several comparative test cases are conducted to validate the performance and efficiency of the proposed wavelet-Galerkin scheme for the BT model over flat beds relative to some existing analytical solutions and numerical results from a second-order finite difference method. We examine the numerical results of the BT system to investigate the two-way propagation of waves for some large L 2 -norm profiles of the initial free-surface elevation. We also assess the ability of the proposed method to predict the evolution and breaking of undular bores over a flat bed with a simple kinematic criterion. Moreover, we study (tsunami) wave runup and propagation by incorporating the effects of depth-varying topography in a simplified BT system in order to check the applicability of the approach to capture the interactions between the bathymetric features and the wet cells. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2017
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
38. Nonlinear wave resonance from bottom vibrations in uniform open-channel flow
- Author
-
Michael Bestehorn and Peder A. Tyvand
- Subjects
Physics ,General Physics and Astronomy ,02 engineering and technology ,Mechanics ,01 natural sciences ,010305 fluids & plasmas ,Open-channel flow ,Physics::Fluid Dynamics ,Vibration ,symbols.namesake ,020303 mechanical engineering & transports ,Amplitude ,Undular bore ,0203 mechanical engineering ,Critical frequency ,Surface wave ,0103 physical sciences ,Froude number ,symbols ,Group velocity ,Mathematical Physics - Abstract
It is known from linear theory that bottom oscillations in uniform open-channel flow can produce resonant surface waves with zero group velocity and diverging amplitude (Tyvand and Torheim 2012). This resonance exists for Froude numbers smaller than one, at a critical frequency dependent on the Froude number. This resonance phenomenon is studied numerically in the time domain, with fully nonlinear free-surface conditions. An oscillatory 2D bottom source is started, and the local elevation at resonance grows until it may reach a saturation amplitude. Four waves exist at subcritical Froude numbers, where resonance represents the third and the fourth wave merging. In the zero-frequency limit, the dispersive second and fourth wave merge into a steady wave with finite group velocity and amplitude, and no other periodic waves exist. In the time-dependent nonlinear analysis at zero frequency, a transient undular bore may emerge as the dominating phenomenon.
- Published
- 2020
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
39. Role of shelf geometry and wave breaking in single N-type tsunami runup under geophysical-scale
- Author
-
Sangyoung Son and Dae-Hong Kim
- Subjects
Atmospheric Science ,010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences ,010505 oceanography ,Turbulence ,Breaking wave ,Magnitude (mathematics) ,Geometry ,Geophysics ,Dissipation ,Geotechnical Engineering and Engineering Geology ,Oceanography ,01 natural sciences ,Momentum ,Undular bore ,Epicenter ,Computer Science (miscellaneous) ,Bathymetry ,Geology ,0105 earth and related environmental sciences - Abstract
Over the last several decades, various analytical, numerical and experimental studies have reported that leading-depression N-type tsunamis could be more destructive than leading-elevation N-type tsunamis. However, in many analytical or experimental studies, the effects of shelf geometry and wave breaking under the geophysical scale, which are known to significantly affect tsunami evolution, have been ignored. Therefore, it is still unclear whether leading-depression tsunamis always result in more serious damage than leading-elevation tsunamis if earthquakes with the same magnitude occur at the same epicentre. Thus, this study investigated the runup and wave evolution characteristics of idealized leading-depression and leading-elevation tsunamis, particularly considering the effects of shelf geometry and wave breaking under the geophysical scale. Using a Boussinesq-type model for fully nonlinear, weakly dispersive, rotational and turbulent flow, the evolution of tsunami was simulated, and the energy and momentum of the tsunami were calculated. As a result, on steeply sloped bathymetry, the large momentum and potential energy induced during the rundown process of the leading-depression tsunami results in runup that was higher than that of the leading-elevation tsunami, which was consistent with the results of previous studies. Interestingly, the leading-depression tsunami resulted in a lower runup height on mild and long sloped bathymetry, in contrast to previous studies; this process originated from the energy dissipation caused by the wave breaking of the undular bore and the mass exchange occurring between the positive and negative waves.
- Published
- 2019
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
40. A dynamical systems view of granular flow: from monoclinal flood waves to roll waves
- Author
-
Ko van der Weele, Giorgos Kanellopoulos, and Dimitrios Razis
- Subjects
Dynamical systems theory ,Flood myth ,Mechanical Engineering ,Applied Mathematics ,Mechanics ,Condensed Matter Physics ,Dynamical system ,Open-channel flow ,symbols.namesake ,Undular bore ,Flow (mathematics) ,Mechanics of Materials ,Froude number ,symbols ,Potential flow ,Geology - Abstract
On the basis of the Saint-Venant equations for flowing granular matter, we study the various travelling waveforms that are encountered in chute flow for growing Froude number. Generally, for$Frone finds either a uniform flow of constant thickness or a monoclinal flood wave, i.e. a shock structure monotonically connecting a thick region upstream to a shallower region downstream. For$Fr>2/3$both the uniform flow and the monoclinal wave cease to be stable; the flow now organizes itself in the form of a train of roll waves. From the governing Saint-Venant equations we derive a dynamical system that elucidates the transition from monoclinal waves to roll waves. It is found that this transition involves several intermediate stages, including an undular bore that had hitherto not been reported for granular flows.
- Published
- 2019
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
41. Galerkin finite element solution for Benjamin–Bona–Mahony–Burgers equation with cubic B-splines
- Author
-
Seydi Battal Gazi Karakoç and Samir Kumar Bhowmik
- Subjects
Finite element method ,Burgers' equation ,Computational Mathematics ,symbols.namesake ,Spline (mathematics) ,Nonlinear system ,Undular bore ,Computational Theory and Mathematics ,Modeling and Simulation ,symbols ,Applied mathematics ,Uniqueness ,Galerkin method ,Mathematics ,Von Neumann architecture - Abstract
In this article, we study solitary-wave solutions of the nonlinear Benjamin–Bona–Mahony–Burgers(BBM–Burgers) equation based on a lumped Galerkin technique using cubic B- spline finite elements for the spatial approximation. The existence and uniqueness of solutions of the Galerkin version of the solutions have been established. An accuracy analysis of the Galerkin finite element scheme for the spatial approximation has been well studied. The proposed scheme is carried out for four test problems including dispersion of single solitary wave, interaction of two, three solitary waves and development of an undular bore. Then we propose a full discrete scheme for the resulting IVP. Von Neumann theory is used to establish stability analysis of the full discrete numerical algorithm. To display applicability and durableness of the new scheme, error norms L 2 , L ∞ and three invariants I 1 , I 2 and I 3 are computed and the acquired results are demonstrated both numerically and graphically. The obtained results specify that our new scheme ensures an apparent and an operative mathematical instrument for solving nonlinear evolution equation.
- Published
- 2019
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
42. High Frequency Field Measurements of an Undular Bore Using a 2D LiDAR Scanner
- Author
-
Kévin Martins, Philippe Bonneton, Frédéric Frappart, Guillaume Detandt, Natalie Bonneton, and Chris E. Blenkinsopp
- Subjects
undular bore ,non-hydrostatic processes ,LiDAR scanner ,wave-by-wave analysis ,Science - Abstract
The secondary wave field associated with undular tidal bores (known as whelps) has been barely studied in field conditions: the wave field can be strongly non-hydrostatic, and the turbidity is generally high. In situ measurements based on pressure or acoustic signals can therefore be limited or inadequate. The intermittent nature of this process in the field and the complications encountered in the downscaling to laboratory conditions also render its study difficult. Here, we present a new methodology based on LiDAR technology to provide high spatial and temporal resolution measurements of the free surface of an undular tidal bore. A wave-by-wave analysis is performed on the whelps, and comparisons between LiDAR, acoustic and pressure-derived measurements are used to quantify the non-hydrostatic nature of this phenomenon. A correction based on linear wave theory applied on individual wave properties improves the results from the pressure transducer (Root mean square error, R M S E of 0 . 19 m against 0 . 38 m); however, more robust data is obtained from an upwards-looking acoustic sensor despite high turbidity during the passage of the whelps ( R M S E of 0 . 05 m). Finally, the LiDAR scanner provides the unique possibility to study the wave geometry: the distribution of measured wave height, period, celerity, steepness and wavelength are presented. It is found that the highest wave from the whelps can be steeper than the bore front, explaining why breaking events are sometimes observed in the secondary wave field of undular tidal bores.
- Published
- 2017
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
43. Formation of the undular bores in shallow water generalized Kaup–Boussinesq model.
- Author
-
Gong, Ruizhi and Wang, Deng-Shan
- Subjects
- *
MODULATION theory , *RIEMANN-Hilbert problems , *SHOCK waves , *WATER waves , *WATER depth - Abstract
The formation of undular bores in Riemann problems of the good generalized Kaup–Boussinesq equation is investigated by Whitham modulation theory. Firstly, the Whitham equations associated with the one-phase and two-phase periodic wave solutions are given by the finite-gap averaging method. Secondly, the basic structures of rarefaction wave and dispersive shock wave are discussed by considering the self-similar solutions of the Whitham equations. Then we propose a complete classification of all possible wave patterns for the initial discontinuity of the good generalized Kaup–Boussinesq equation, in which it has been shown that the theoretical results from Whitham modulation theory are in good agreement with the full numerical simulations. The correspondences between the soliton frontiers of the dispersive shock waves and the exact soliton solution of the good generalized Kaup–Boussinesq equation are considered, and exotic undular bores are found. Finally, the dam break problem and piston problem are explored to show the important physical applications of the theoretical results, from which certain inspiring phenomena of wave breaking are discovered for the first time. • The Riemann problems of the generalized KB equation are investigated. • The Whitham equations are derived by the finite-gap averaging method. • The basic structures of rarefaction wave and dispersive shock wave are proposed. • A classification of all possible wave patterns for the initial discontinuity is given. • The dam break problem and piston problem are explored by Whitham modulation theory. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
44. Formulation of a Surf-Similarity Parameter to Predict Tsunami Characteristics at the Coast
- Author
-
Roubos, Jochem (author), Glasbergen, Toni (author), Hofland, B. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Zijlema, M. (author), Esteban, Miguel (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Roubos, Jochem (author), Glasbergen, Toni (author), Hofland, B. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Zijlema, M. (author), Esteban, Miguel (author), and Tissier, M.F.S. (author)
- Abstract
To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures it is of great importance to determine the shape of the tsunami front reaching the coast. Based on literature reviews, analytical reasoning,video footage, and numerical modelling it is concluded that both the continental shelf slope and the bay geometry have a significant influence on the transformation of a tsunami wave near the coastline. After conducting 1D and 2DH wave simulations, a distinction is made between three types of tsunami waves; a non-breaking front (surging), a breaking front and an undular bore breaking front. Tsunami waves transform into these three wave types over a steep continental shelf, an intermediate sloped continental shelf, and a gentle sloped continental shelf, respectively. A new tsunami surf-similarityparameter is proposed to quantitatively predict the type of wave at the coastline, which was validated based on observations during the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami., Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk, Environmental Fluid Mechanics
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
45. Numerical and analytical study of undular bores governed by the full water wave equations and bi-directional Whitham-Boussinesq equations
- Author
-
Timothy R. Marchant, Rosa María Vargas-Magaña, and Noel F. Smyth
- Subjects
Fluid Flow and Transfer Processes ,Physics ,Shock wave ,Mechanical Engineering ,Computational Mechanics ,Mechanics ,Condensed Matter Physics ,01 natural sciences ,010305 fluids & plasmas ,Nonlinear system ,Waves and shallow water ,Discontinuity (linguistics) ,Modulational instability ,Undular bore ,Nonlinear Sciences::Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems ,Mechanics of Materials ,Surface wave ,0103 physical sciences ,010306 general physics ,Nonlinear Sciences::Pattern Formation and Solitons ,Hamiltonian (control theory) - Abstract
Undular bores, also termed dispersive shock waves, generated by an initial discontinuity in height as governed by two forms of the Boussinesq system of weakly nonlinear shallow water wave theory, the standard formulation and a Hamiltonian formulation, two related Whitham-Boussinesq equations and the full water wave equations for gravity surface waves are studied and compared. It is found that the Whitham-Boussinesq systems give solutions in excellent agreement with numerical solutions of the full water wave equationsfor the positions of the leading and trailing edges of the bore up until the onset on modulational instability. TheWhitham-Boussinesq systems, which are far simpler than the full water wave equations, can then be used to accurately model surface water wave undular bores. Finally, comparisons with numerical solutions of the full water wave equations show that the Whitham-Boussinesq systems give a slightly lower threshold for the onset of modulational instability in terms of the height of the initial step generating the undular bore.
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
46. B-spline quasi-interpolation based numerical methods for some Sobolev type equations.
- Author
-
Kumar, Rakesh and Baskar, S.
- Subjects
- *
INTERPOLATION , *SOBOLEV spaces , *SPLINES , *STOCHASTIC convergence , *STABILITY theory , *VON Neumann algebras - Abstract
In this article, we intend to use quadratic and cubic B-spline quasi-interpolants to develop higher order numerical methods for some Sobolev type equations in one space dimension. Our aim is also to compare the performance of the proposed methods in terms of the accuracy and the rate of convergence. We also discuss another approach to the cubic B-spline quasi-interpolation based method, where we achieve fourth order of accuracy in space. We theoretically establish the order of accuracy for the three proposed methods and also establish the L 2 -stability in the linear case using von Neumann analysis. As a particular case of the Sobolev type equations, we take the equal width and the Benjamin–Bona–Mahony–Burgers equations, and perform several numerical experiments to support our theoretical results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2016
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
47. Criteria for the transition from a breaking bore to an undular bore.
- Author
-
Pelinovsky, E., Shurgalina, E., and Rodin, A.
- Subjects
- *
BORES (Tidal phenomena) , *COASTAL ecology , *ESTUARIES , *WATER depth , *RESERVOIRS , *MATHEMATICAL models - Abstract
Field data on undular and breaking bores observed in a coastal zone and river estuaries were collected. The existing criteria of distinction of these two regimes of bores, which depend on the ratio between the bore height and unperturbed water depth, are applied to the collected data. It is shown that criterion H/ h > 1.5 (where H is bore height measured from the bottom and h is unperturbed depth of reservoir) is sufficient for the rough separation of the bores by their type. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2015
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
48. Removal of a dense bottom layer by a gravity current
- Author
-
Rui Zhu, Eckart Meiburg, and Zhiguo He
- Subjects
Physics ,010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences ,Mechanical Engineering ,Stratified flows ,Mechanics ,Internal wave ,Vorticity ,Condensed Matter Physics ,Kinetic energy ,01 natural sciences ,Potential energy ,010305 fluids & plasmas ,Gravity current ,Physics::Fluid Dynamics ,Undular bore ,Mechanics of Materials ,0103 physical sciences ,Front velocity ,0105 earth and related environmental sciences ,Dimensionless quantity - Abstract
We investigate the removal of a dense bottom layer by a gravity current, via Navier–Stokes simulations in the Boussinesq limit. The problem is governed by a dimensionless thickness parameter for the bottom layer, and by the ratio of the density differences between bottom layer, gravity current and ambient fluids. A quasisteady gravity current forms that propagates along the interface and displaces some of the dense bottom fluid, which accumulates ahead of the gravity current and forms an undular bore or a series of internal gravity waves. Depending on the ratio of the gravity current front velocity to the linear shallow-water wave velocity, we observe the existence of different regimes, characterized by small-amplitude waves or by a train of steep, nonlinear internal waves. We develop a semiempirical model that provides reasonable estimates of several important flow properties. We also formulate a more sophisticated, self-contained model based on the conservation principles for mass and vorticity that does not require empirical closure assumptions. This model is able to predict such quantities as the gravity current height and the internal wave or bore velocity as a function of the governing dimensionless parameters, generally to within approximately a 10 accuracy. An energy budget analysis provides information on the rates at which potential energy is converted into kinetic energy and then dissipated, and on the processes by which energy is transferred from the gravity current fluid to the dense and ambient fluids. We observe that the energy content of thicker and denser bottom layers grows more rapidly.
- Published
- 2021
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
49. Large Amplitude Undular Tidal Bore Propagation in the Garonne River, France.
- Author
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Bonneton, Philippe, Parisot, Jean-Paul, Bonneton, Natalie, Sottolichio, Aldo, Castelle, Bruno, Marieu, Vincent, Pochon, Nicolas, and Van de Loock, Julien
- Abstract
The article discusses a study on the dynamics of large amplitude tidal bores, also called mascaret, that propagate in he Gironde estuary and the Garonne River in France. It is said that tidal bore phenomenon is studied because of its effect on the river ecosystem behavior and analogies with tsunami-induced river bores. The researchers have observed that as the tides on the estuary and the river propagate upstream, the wave becomes deformed.
- Published
- 2011
50. Formulation of a Surf-Similarity Parameter to Predict Tsunami Characteristics at the Coast
- Author
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Roubos, Jochem J., Glasbergen, Toni, Hofland, Bas, Bricker, Jeremy D., Zijlema, Marcel, Esteban, Miguel, Tissier, Marion F. S., and TU Delft
- Subjects
Wave Front Breaking ,Tsunami ,Wasserbau (627) ,Undular Bore ,Küstenschutz/Küsteningenieurwesen (627.58) ,Surging ,Continental Shelf ,Bay Geometry ,Surf-similarity Parameter - Abstract
To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures it is of great importance to determine the shape of the tsunami front reaching the coast. Based on literature reviews, analytical reasoning, video footage, and numerical modelling it is concluded that both the continental shelf slope and the bay geometry have a significant influence on the transformation of a tsunami wave near the coastline. After conducting 1D and 2DH wave simulations, a distinction is made between three types of tsunami waves; a non-breaking front (surging), a breaking front and an undular bore breaking front. Tsunami waves transform into these three wave types over a steep continental shelf, an intermediate sloped continental shelf, and a gentle sloped continental shelf, respectively. A new tsunami surf-similarity parameter is proposed to quantitatively predict the type of wave at the coastline, which was validated based on observations during the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami., Journal of Coastal and Hydraulic Structures, Vol. 1 (2021)
- Published
- 2021
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