IMPACT OF A COSMETIC PRODUCT CONTAINING DRACOCEPHALUM RUYSCHIANA EXTRACT ON BIOPHYSICAL PARAMETERS OF THE SKIN.

Introduction. Skin changes with age, it produces less collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, loses elasticity, becomes drier and these changes can affect the quality of life. Dracocephalum ruyschiana callus culture extract has demonstrated in studies (in vitro) that it promotes the proliferation of keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts, stimulates collagen synthesis and inhibits its degradation, protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation induced oxidative stress, inhibits endothelial cell proliferation and neoangiogenesis. Materials and methods. Participants (n = 42) were asked to apply two test products on a clean facial skin twice a day. The test products were marked – one for the left side of the face and the other one for the right side of the face. Only one of both cosmetic products contained Dracocephalum ruyschiana extract, participants did not know which one of the both products contains a plant extract. Instrumental assessment of hydration, viscoelasticity (R2, R5, R7), pigmentation and erythema parameters were made using Corneometer CM 825, Cutometer dual MPA580 and Mexameter MX18 (Courage + Khazaka GmbH, Germany). Parameters were evaluated three times: before using cosmetic products (day 0) and after 4 and 8 weeks of regular everyday use of the test products. Six measurements were made during each visit: three on the participant's right cheek and three on the left cheek to determine skin hydration, viscoelasticity, pigmentation and erythema parameters. The assessment also included standardized photography during each visit using Reveal Imager. At the end of the study, participants answered written questions about the cosmetic products and its effectiveness. Independent and paired sample T-test was used for analyzing collected data. P value < 0,05 was considered statistically significant. Results. Statistically significant increase in the skin hydration level was observed on the left side of the facial skin in the start of the study (day 0) (46,52, SD = 9,61) compared to the hydration level after 8 weeks (55,75, SD = 10,99), p = 0,000107. Statistically significant increase in the skin melanin level was observed on the both sides of the participants facial skin – on the left side in the start of the study (day 0) (137,61, SD = 25,50) compared to the melanin level after 8 weeks (153,10, SD = 34,67), p = 0,001335 and on the right side of the facial skin in the start of the study (day 0) (137,76, SD = 23,96) compared to the melanin level after 8 weeks (156,64, SD = 34,05), p = 0,000643. The increase in the skin melanin level was explained by the summer season when the measurements were made. Conclusions: Everyday use of cosmetic product containing Dracocephalum ruyschiana extract leads to improvement in hydration level of the skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]