Bistro du Jour: Libertine is a new (and pricey) take on an old idea.

On the upside, ifyou're eating the kind of bistro cooking thatrequires an alp-size mound of butter likethe one that is clearly visible over chef MaxMackinnon's shoulder in the open kitchen,you may cherish the extra time to digest. Thesedays, they've ceded much of thewhite-tablecloth territoryto other cuisines and disguisedambition under scruff at all mannerof bistros and bars à vin:Claud, Place des Fêtes, Le Dive,the list goes on. [Extracted from the article]