Historical silks: a novel method to evaluate their condition with ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and Principal Component Analysis.

• ATR-FTIR spectroscopy is used to assess the condition of historical silk samples. • Evaluating the conditions of historical textiles guides conservation and preventive measures. • Differentiation between original and later interventions is also possible. • Visual, bivariate and multivariate methods are used to evaluate the data. • Spectral evaluation reveals deterioration markers, explained according to literature. Understanding the conservation condition of historical silk yarn allows to define appropriate storage, care and display of historical silk collections. This paper discusses the characterisation of silk fabrics from a collection of traditional Japanese samurai armours which date back from the 16th to the 20th century (Morigi Collection, Museo delle Culture, Lugano, Switzerland). An analytical protocol to assess silk fabrics conditions was defined, based on microinvasive ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. In particular, the amide I and II region was studied in order to extrapolate the conformational information about silk proteins. According to literature, this kind of information can be related to different degradation stages. A linear correlation was found between the amide I and the amide II shifts, allowing to assess the silk fibre condition. Along with this bivariate approach based on intensity ratios, a multivariate approach based on Principal Component Analysis was also applied to ATR-FTIR spectra. This allowed to group together silks with the same state of preservation. The findings of this research offer a valuable method to researchers and conservators to identify the most damaged textiles; the differentiation between original and restoration materials was also possible in some cases. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]