BEAUTY; CREATING NEW SCENTS.

AT THE START OF THIS DECADE, three perfumers took a look at the American woman and decided who she was and what new scent would best suit her. None of the visions were the same. Calvin Klein's cosmetics group saw a sexy, bewitching woman, one who leaves a trail of men behind her. Chanel saw a sophisticated yet sensual woman, with a sense of humor about herself. Estee Lauder, in turn, saw a romantic, feminine woman, who wanted to return to a more old-fashioned time. In comment on the chameleonlike abilities of each woman or, perhaps, the melting-pot qualities of women as a group, each seems to be right; the different perfumes created by the three, which were introduced last year, are selling well. Obsession by Calvin Klein is an aggressive, earthy fragrance; Coco by Chanel is a refined, woodier one, and Beautiful by Estee Lauder is light and floral, with a touch of citrus and spice. The stories of the selling of these fragrances form a textbook lesson in the marketing of a new perfume, which, in essence, is the marketing of the ephemeral. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]