Copenhagen's Bohemian Soul.

COPENHAGEN has two faces. One has regal architecture, populated with elegantly dressed bicyclists and citizens so polite they wait patiently for the light to turn green before crossing empty streets. But along its eastern coast, just across the Knippels Bridge, is its grubby alter ego, Christianshavn -- a tiny island lined with brick warehouses. It is also home to Freetown Christiania, a kind of hippie commune formed in 1971 after squatters took over abandoned military barracks and proclaimed themselves an autonomous neighborhood. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]