Protecting provenance, abandoning agriculture? Heritage products, industrial ideals and the uprooting of a Spanish turrón.

Protected geographical indications (PGIs) are an increasingly popular strategy for securing price premiums on food products in the interest of preserving associated rural livelihoods, however they often fail to show clear benefits for small or otherwise marginalized farmers. Their environmental record for supporting low-impact farming practices is also mixed. This case study of the PGI for Spanish almond-based desserts Turrón de Jijona and Turrón de Alicante details a yet unstudied form of such failures, where manufacturers seeking to scale production removed the requirement to source their primary ingredient (almonds) from the region's low-input farms and opted for intensively produced ingredients imported from abroad. This uprooting of turrón from its agroecological origins highlights how the GI designation creates tension between the need to legitimate a product as rooted in traditional agrarian lifeways and the incentive to expand exports by industrial means. While previous studies show how such tension can result in agricultural intensification benefitting larger landholders within a given region, I argue this inequity and ecological risk operates at a global scale. Importantly, the turrón case reveals that "quality" of a product is a moving target shaped not only by culinary legacies but also forged by a global political economy of agriculture suffering chronic overproduction. Finally, the role of the state in structuring PGI institutions more inclusively and adjudicating conflicts among actors along the value chain is fundamental to the capacity of these programs to achieve social and environmental goals. • Turrón manufacturers changed standards to allow internationally imported ingredients. • Material quality of ingredients in PGI products is shaped by global political economy. • Shift to industrial ingredient quality disadvantages ecologically-suited agriculture. • Inclusion of farmers in PGI management is crucial to meet rural socioecological goals. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]