UTJECAJ CRISTÓBALA BALENCIAGE NA SUVREMENU MODU

Tema rada analiza je kreativnog doprinosa Cristóbala Balenciage estetici suvremenih modnih dizajnera na kontekstualnoj povijesno-kulturalnoj podlozi europske visoke mode sredinom 20. stoljeća. Posebna pažnja posvećena je Parizu, gdje ujedno u 50-im i 60-im godinama nastaju najznačajniji radovi koji odjeke šalju u siluetu mode druge polovice stoljeća. Centralna os analize kreće se linijom neobičnih i revolucionarnih volumena koje dizajner umeće između ženina tijela i odjeće, rušeći tako standardizirani model ženske siluete pješčanog sata. Osvrtom na nekoliko modnih dizajnera druge polovice 20. st. i početka 21. stoljeća slijedila sam logičnu progresiju ideje i mutacije siluete, koja, premještena iz konteksta haute couture mode u doba još njene legitimne vezanosti za društvo, nastavlja dalje u postmodernoj modi kroz hiperdimenzionirane naglaske, posebice analizirane kod dizajnera japanskog podrijetla koji dijele jednaku eksperimentalnu i plastičnu kvalitetu koju uočavamo u radovima Cristóbala Balenciage.
The paper explores the creative contribution of Cristóbal Balenciaga to the aesthetics of contemporary fashion designers within the context of historical and cultural backdrop of European high fashion of the mid 20th century. A fair amount of attention was given to Paris, where the most significant work was produced during the 50's and 60's, which continues to perpetuate its echoes through the fashion silhouette of the second half of the 20th century. The axis of the paper is concentrated along the lines of unusual and revolutionary volumes which the designer inserts between the women's body and the clothes, and by doing so tears down the standardized model of the female hour glass silhouette. By analyzing a few designers of the second half of the century and the beginning of the 21st century I followed a logical progression of ideas and the silhouette mutability, which, translated from the haute couture fashion still tied to its legitimate connections to the social, continues on within the postmodern fashion through hyperIII inflated accents, especially revised through the work of Japanese designers, which share the same experimental and plastic quality observed in Cristóbal Balenciaga's work.