Multi-scale morphodynamics of an estuarine beach adjacent to a flood-tide delta: Assessing decadal scale erosion

Estuarine beaches are ubiquitous, yet understudied, coastal systems. The mixed hydrodynamic processes – such as combined tidal and wave forcing – and the influence of adjacent sedimentary features – such as flood-tide deltas (FTDs) – leads to complex morphodynamic processes. As such, the dynamics and evolution of these important coastal systems are poorly understood. This study synthesises a set of analyses conducted on an estuarine beach, in southeast Australia, over multiple temporal scales. Nearshore waves and currents were measured and used to determine the processes driving seasonal to yearly beach change between 2007 and 2010. These results were compared to decadal scale beach change determined from aerial photos between 1963 and 2006. We found the westward transport of sediment towards the inner estuary was the dominant nearshore process leading to erosion in the eastern regions of the beach (near the estuary entrance) and accretion in the west over yearly time scales. Cross-shore sediment transport occurred during winter storm swell conditions leading to erosion in more exposed sites and some limited accretion in sheltered zones, most likely due to sediment input from the flood-tide delta. However, severe storm swell events that propagated into the estuary led to a loss of sediment and erosion across the entire beach which was not recovered during the study period. It is likely that the erosion processes observed in the short- to medium-term (days to years) analyses are the conditions that led to the long-term shoreline retreat observed in the aerial photograph record. The long-term shoreline retreat since 1963 is likely a result of a negative sediment balance due to movement of the FTD and a lack of sediment input in the eastern regions of Shoal Bay. Shoreline retreat will likely continue unless increased sediment input occurs from marine sources or shoreline interventions are maintained.