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Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current
- Source :
- Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Copernicus Publ. / European Geosciences Union, 2011, 11, pp.895-903. ⟨10.5194/NHESS-11-895-2011⟩, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Vol 11, Iss 3, Pp 895-903 (2011), Natural hazards and earth system sciences, 11 (2011): 895–903., info:cnr-pdr/source/autori:Toffoli, A.; Cavaleri, L.; Babanin, A. V.; Benoit, M.; Bitner-Gregersen, E. M.; Monbaliu, J.;Onorato, M.; Osborne, A. R.; Stansberg, C. T./titolo:Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current/doi:/rivista:Natural hazards and earth system sciences (Print)/anno:2011/pagina_da:895/pagina_a:903/intervallo_pagine:895–903/volume:11
- Publication Year :
- 2011
-
Abstract
- Laboratory experiments were performed to study the dynamics of three- dimensional mechanically generated waves propagating over an oblique current in partial opposition. The flow velocity varied along the mean wave direction of propagation with an increasing trend between the wave-maker and the centre of the tank. Tests with regular wave packets traversing the area of positive current gradient showed that the concurrent increase of wave steepness triggered modulational instability on otherwise stable wave trains and hence induced the development of very large amplitude waves. In random directional wave fields, the presence of the oblique current resulted in a weak reinforcement of wave instability with a subsequent increase of the probability of occurrence of extreme events. This seems to partially compensate the suppression of strongly non-Gaussian properties due to directional energy distribution.
- Subjects :
- [PHYS.PHYS.PHYS-FLU-DYN]Physics [physics]/Physics [physics]/Fluid Dynamics [physics.flu-dyn]
010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences
Wave propagation
Plane wave
01 natural sciences
lcsh:TD1-1066
010305 fluids & plasmas
Optics
0103 physical sciences
Rogue wave
lcsh:Environmental technology. Sanitary engineering
lcsh:Environmental sciences
0105 earth and related environmental sciences
Physics
lcsh:GE1-350
[PHYS.PHYS.PHYS-AO-PH]Physics [physics]/Physics [physics]/Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics [physics.ao-ph]
business.industry
lcsh:QE1-996.5
lcsh:Geography. Anthropology. Recreation
Breaking wave
Mechanics
lcsh:Geology
Modulational instability
lcsh:G
Surface wave
Wave shoaling
General Earth and Planetary Sciences
Mechanical wave
business
Subjects
Details
- Language :
- English
- ISSN :
- 15618633 and 16849981
- Database :
- OpenAIRE
- Journal :
- Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Copernicus Publ. / European Geosciences Union, 2011, 11, pp.895-903. ⟨10.5194/NHESS-11-895-2011⟩, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Vol 11, Iss 3, Pp 895-903 (2011), Natural hazards and earth system sciences, 11 (2011): 895–903., info:cnr-pdr/source/autori:Toffoli, A.; Cavaleri, L.; Babanin, A. V.; Benoit, M.; Bitner-Gregersen, E. M.; Monbaliu, J.;Onorato, M.; Osborne, A. R.; Stansberg, C. T./titolo:Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current/doi:/rivista:Natural hazards and earth system sciences (Print)/anno:2011/pagina_da:895/pagina_a:903/intervallo_pagine:895–903/volume:11
- Accession number :
- edsair.doi.dedup.....10413c4732f18b3e1b5cfc6b79e8de86
- Full Text :
- https://doi.org/10.5194/NHESS-11-895-2011⟩