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Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current

Authors :
Jaak Monbaliu
Carl Trygve Stansberg
Miguel Onorato
Luigi Cavaleri
Alexander V. Babanin
Alessandro Toffoli
Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen
A. R. Osborne
Michel Benoit
Institute of Marine Sciences
Swinburne University of Technology [Melbourne]
Laboratoire d'Hydraulique Saint-Venant / Saint-Venant Laboratory for Hydraulics (Saint-Venant)
École des Ponts ParisTech (ENPC)-PRES Université Paris-Est-EDF (EDF)-Avant création Cerema
Dipartimento di Fisica Generale dell' Università
Source :
Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Copernicus Publ. / European Geosciences Union, 2011, 11, pp.895-903. ⟨10.5194/NHESS-11-895-2011⟩, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Vol 11, Iss 3, Pp 895-903 (2011), Natural hazards and earth system sciences, 11 (2011): 895–903., info:cnr-pdr/source/autori:Toffoli, A.; Cavaleri, L.; Babanin, A. V.; Benoit, M.; Bitner-Gregersen, E. M.; Monbaliu, J.;Onorato, M.; Osborne, A. R.; Stansberg, C. T./titolo:Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current/doi:/rivista:Natural hazards and earth system sciences (Print)/anno:2011/pagina_da:895/pagina_a:903/intervallo_pagine:895–903/volume:11
Publication Year :
2011

Abstract

Laboratory experiments were performed to study the dynamics of three- dimensional mechanically generated waves propagating over an oblique current in partial opposition. The flow velocity varied along the mean wave direction of propagation with an increasing trend between the wave-maker and the centre of the tank. Tests with regular wave packets traversing the area of positive current gradient showed that the concurrent increase of wave steepness triggered modulational instability on otherwise stable wave trains and hence induced the development of very large amplitude waves. In random directional wave fields, the presence of the oblique current resulted in a weak reinforcement of wave instability with a subsequent increase of the probability of occurrence of extreme events. This seems to partially compensate the suppression of strongly non-Gaussian properties due to directional energy distribution.

Details

Language :
English
ISSN :
15618633 and 16849981
Database :
OpenAIRE
Journal :
Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Copernicus Publ. / European Geosciences Union, 2011, 11, pp.895-903. ⟨10.5194/NHESS-11-895-2011⟩, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Vol 11, Iss 3, Pp 895-903 (2011), Natural hazards and earth system sciences, 11 (2011): 895–903., info:cnr-pdr/source/autori:Toffoli, A.; Cavaleri, L.; Babanin, A. V.; Benoit, M.; Bitner-Gregersen, E. M.; Monbaliu, J.;Onorato, M.; Osborne, A. R.; Stansberg, C. T./titolo:Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current/doi:/rivista:Natural hazards and earth system sciences (Print)/anno:2011/pagina_da:895/pagina_a:903/intervallo_pagine:895–903/volume:11
Accession number :
edsair.doi.dedup.....10413c4732f18b3e1b5cfc6b79e8de86
Full Text :
https://doi.org/10.5194/NHESS-11-895-2011⟩