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Rhythmic surf zone bars and morphodynamic self-organization
- Source :
- Coastal Engineering, Coastal Engineering, Elsevier, 2008, 55, pp.622-641. ⟨10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.11.012⟩, UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC), Recercat. Dipósit de la Recerca de Catalunya, instname
- Publication Year :
- 2008
-
Abstract
- International audience; Work undertaken in the EU HUMOR project on morphodynamical modelling, particularly with regard to simulating and understanding rhythmic surf zone bars and related morphodynamic self-organization, is presented. These features are reviewed and their engineering context stated. Hydrodynamical and morphodynamical models developed and/or applied within the HUMOR project in order to address these issues are briefly presented. The linear stability modelling concept and stability studies using fully nonlinear models are contrasted. The stability of a shoreparallel bar under normal or oblique wave incidence is chosen as a test case for the different models. The results are compared and discussed. Lastly, modelling efforts and main results from the project are summarized. Recommendations for further work are made.
- Subjects :
- Self-organization
Environmental Engineering
010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences
Computer science
Numerical models
Poison control
Ocean Engineering
Context (language use)
Surf zone
010502 geochemistry & geophysics
Rip-currents
01 natural sciences
Stability (probability)
[SPI.MECA.MEFL]Engineering Sciences [physics]/Mechanics [physics.med-ph]/Fluids mechanics [physics.class-ph]
Corrents marins
Oblique wave
14. Life underwater
[PHYS.MECA.MEFL]Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Fluid mechanics [physics.class-ph]
[SDU.STU.OC]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Oceanography
0105 earth and related environmental sciences
Física [Àrees temàtiques de la UPC]
Rip currents
Sand bars
Sorra -- Platges
Morphodynamics
Rhythmic topography
Cartography
Beach morphodynamics
Linear stability
Marine engineering
Subjects
Details
- Language :
- English
- ISSN :
- 03783839
- Database :
- OpenAIRE
- Journal :
- Coastal Engineering, Coastal Engineering, Elsevier, 2008, 55, pp.622-641. ⟨10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.11.012⟩, UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC), Recercat. Dipósit de la Recerca de Catalunya, instname
- Accession number :
- edsair.doi.dedup.....10ff40fb18c8620a3c5e59fc0eb2c084
- Full Text :
- https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.11.012⟩