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Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach
- Source :
- Ocean Dynamics, Ocean Dynamics, Springer Verlag, 2018, 68 (9), pp.1207-1220. ⟨10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1⟩, Ocean Dynamics, Springer Verlag, In press
- Publication Year :
- 2018
- Publisher :
- HAL CCSD, 2018.
-
Abstract
- International audience; Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.
- Subjects :
- 010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences
Equilibrium model
Intertidal zone
Forcing (mathematics)
010502 geochemistry & geophysics
Oceanography
Atmospheric sciences
01 natural sciences
Cross-shore processes
[ SDE.IE ] Environmental Sciences/Environmental Engineering
Macrotidal
[ SDE ] Environmental Sciences
14. Life underwater
[SDU.STU.GM]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology
ComputingMilieux_MISCELLANEOUS
0105 earth and related environmental sciences
Wave power
geography
geography.geographical_feature_category
[ SDU.STU.GM ] Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology
[SDE.IE]Environmental Sciences/Environmental Engineering
Elevation
Intertidal profile
Equilibrium modeling
Water level
Terrace (geology)
Inflection point
[SDE]Environmental Sciences
Low tide terrace
Geology
Subjects
Details
- Language :
- English
- ISSN :
- 16167341 and 16167228
- Database :
- OpenAIRE
- Journal :
- Ocean Dynamics, Ocean Dynamics, Springer Verlag, 2018, 68 (9), pp.1207-1220. ⟨10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1⟩, Ocean Dynamics, Springer Verlag, In press
- Accession number :
- edsair.doi.dedup.....1871cfc75577d829265ecfcce50deb18
- Full Text :
- https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-018-1185-1⟩