Evaluation of an HPLC Method for the determination of natural moisturizing factors in the human stratum corneum

The levels of natural moisturizing factors in the skin can be used as a biomarker of hydration, for studying the effect of skin irritants, or as a biomarker of loss-of-function mutations in the filaggrin gene which are the main risk factor for atopic dermatitis. In this study the chromatographic performance and recovery of natural moisturizing factors and proteins from the skin were investigated using different extraction solvents and adhesive tapes. The uppermost layer of the skin stratum corneum, collected by using commercially available D-squame and corneofix adhesive tapes, was extracted by ammonia or potassium hydroxide. Protein levels used to correct for a variable stratum corneum amount on a tape were assessed by measuring optical density of a tape or indirectly by measuring proteins by a spectrophotometric assay. The measured natural moisturizing factors, pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, histidine, tyrosine, trans--urocanic acid, and cis-urocanic acid were determined by ion pair reverse phase HPLC. Sample preparation and chromatographic performance were favorable when ammonia was used as an extraction solvent. Extraction of the natural moisturizing factors with ammonia avoids a time consuming neutralization step as required with extraction procedures using strong base or acid. The only drawback of the ammonia method is incomplete extraction of proteins from the tapes ; however this can be avoided by measuring the optical density of stratum corneum-loaded tapes. The sensitivity of the method was sufficiently high to quantify the analytes even in homozygous filaggrin gene carriers. Reduced natural moisturizing factors levels found in the individuals with filaggrin gene mutation or after exposure to a skin irritant sodium lauryl sulfate were consistent with the previously reported studies.