Assessment of the photoprotective potential and toxicity of Antarctic red macroalgae extracts from Curdiea racovitzae and Iridaea cordata for cosmetic use

Botanical and marine extracts have been used in cosmetic products as natural antioxidants or UV-absorbers to reduce the use of organic UV filters. However, despite the high UV exposure of Antarctic macroalgae that induces the production of photoprotective compounds, the use of marine macroalgae extracts for photoprotection has been little explored. Thus our objective was to assess the photoprotective potential and the toxicity of extracts from two red macroalgae Curdiea racovitzae and Iridaea cordata. Chemical characterization was based on the qualitative and quantitative analyses of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) by high performance liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Photoprotective properties were assessed by UV spectrophotometry and photostability assay. Antioxidant capacity was studied by DPPH and superoxide radical scavenging assays. UVB and UVA photoprotection was assessed in keratinocytes by cell viability analysis after UVB irradiation and quantification of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by UVA, respectively. Toxicity was estimated by cytotoxicity, phototoxicity and HET-CAM (Hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane) assays. Red algae extracts had high concentrations of MAAs, mainly consisted of palythine. The extracts absorbed in the UVB and UVA-II and were photostable. The C. racovitzae extract showed antioxidant activity against superoxide radicals. In addition, the C. racovitzae (1.0 and 0.5 mg/mL) and I. cordata (1.0 mg/mL) extracts had an UVB photoprotection similar to benzophenone-3, which was dependent on the total MAAs concentration. Besides, the C. racovitzae extract decreased ROS generation by 31 and 24% at 100 and 50 μg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, it was more effective in reducing ROS generation than quercetin and Helioguard 365®. Finally, both extracts were considered to be non-cytotoxic, non-phototoxic and non-irritant. Therefore, the C. racovitzae extract is a good candidate to be added to anti-aging and sunscreen formulations in order to protect against oxidative stress and to improve the absorption spectra of UV filters.