Proučevanje sestave in lastnosti kozmetičnih izdelkov z izvlečki konoplje

Kozmetična industrija v zadnjem obdobju vse večjo pozornost namenja naravni kozmetiki in sestavinam naravnega izvora, ki ugodno vplivajo na kožo. Med sestavinami naravnega izvora je v porastu uporaba izvlečkov iz konoplje in konopljinega olja. Konoplja je rastlina, ki so jo že v preteklosti uporabljali na različnih področjih. Poznamo tri podvrste navadne konoplje, med katerimi pa zakonodaja dovoljuje samo uporabo industrijske konoplje (Cannabis sativa L. subsp. sativa). Med vsemi spojinami v konoplji je za uporabo v kozmetiki najpomembnejši izvleček, ki vsebuje kanabidiol ter spada v skupino kanabinoidov. Poleg izvlečkov predstavlja pomemben vir naravnih spojin v kozmetiki tudi hladno stiskano konopljino olje, ki izkazuje pozitivne učinke na zdravje kože. Pozitivni učinki se kažejo kot zaviranje tvorbe sebuma in hiperproliferacije keratinocitov ter antioksidativno, protivnetno in vlažilno delovanje. V diplomski nalogi smo preučevali nabor 63 kozmetičnih izdelkov, ki so vsebovali sestavine, pridobljene iz konoplje. Izbranim izdelkom smo določili vrsto oziroma namen uporabe in tehnološko obliko. Podrobneje smo se lotili pregleda prisotnih izvlečkov konoplje in opredelili njihovo vlogo v kozmetičnih izdelkih. Ker je naravna kozmetika v trendu, smo analizirali oglaševanje izvlečkov konoplje in naravne kozmetike ter prisotnost certifikatov za naravno kozmetiko. Izdelke smo preučili tudi glede na državo proizvodnje, saj nas je zanimalo, ali so na trgu prisotni tudi izdelki, proizvedeni v Sloveniji. Pregled izbranih kozmetičnih izdelkov z izvlečki konoplje iz spletnih trgovin je pokazal različne tehnološke oblike z raznolikimi nameni uporabe. Izdelki se večinoma pojavljajo v obliki krem. Največ izdelkov najdemo v kategoriji izdelkov na nego obraza in telesa. Med vsemi sestavinami konoplje so najpomembnejše konopljino olje, izvleček kanabidiol in izvleček, pridobljen iz celotne rastline. Večinoma imajo vlogo kozmetično aktivne sestavine ter se uporabljajo v aktivni kozmetiki za aknasto, zrelo in problematično kožo. Pogosto jih najdemo tudi v vlogi emolientov in humektantov. Ugotovili smo, da veliko izdelkov oglašujejo kot naravno kozmetiko, vendar pri vseh ni prisoten certifikat za naravno kozmetiko. Na trgu zasledimo tudi vedno več slovenske kozmetike. Zaključimo lahko, da je konoplja rastlina z velikim potencialom in možnostjo uporabe v kozmetiki. The cosmetic industry has recently been paying increasing attention to natural cosmetics and natural ingredients with beneficial effect on skin. Among these natural ingredients, hemp extracts and hemp oil have seen increasing use. Hemp has been used for a variety of purposes throughout history. There are three subspecies of hemp, but under the current legislation, only the use of the so-called industrial hemp (Cannabis sativa L. subsp. sativa) is allowed. Among all compounds found in hemp, the extract containing cannabidiol, which is one of the cannabinoids, is the most important for use in cosmetics. In addition to extracts, cold-pressed hemp oil is also an important source of natural chemicals in cosmetics with a positive effect on skin health. Positive effects include inhibiting sebum production and keratinocyte hyperproliferation, as well as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturising effect. In the graduation thesis, we studied a set of 63 cosmetic products containing ingredients derived from hemp. Type or purpose, and technological form were determined for each of the selected products. We examined in more detail the hemp extracts in the products, and defined their role in cosmetic products. Since natural cosmetics is trending upwards, we analysed advertising of hemp extracts, natural cosmetics, and natural cosmetics certification. We also examined the products based on the country of production, as we took interest in whether products made in Slovenia were also present in the market. Analysis of cosmetic products containing hemp extracts, sourced from online stores, has shown a variety of technological forms and purposes of use. The products mostly appear as creams. The most products are found in the facial and body care product categories. Among the hemp ingredients, hemp oil, cannabidiol extract, and extract from the entire plant are the most commonly found. In most cases, only cosmetically active ingredients have an actual role and they are used in active cosmetics for treating acne, for mature skin, and for problematic skin. They are also often found in the role of emollients and humectants. We found that many products were advertised as natural cosmetics, yet they were not all certified as such. Moreover, there is an increasing number of Slovenian cosmetic products in the market. We can conclude that hemp is a plant with great potential and many possibilities of use in cosmetics.