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(+)-Usnic Acid as a Promising Candidate for a Safe and Stable Topical Photoprotective Agent

Authors :
Agnieszka Galanty
Justyna Popiół
Magdalena Paczkowska-Walendowska
Elżbieta Studzińska-Sroka
Paweł Paśko
Judyta Cielecka-Piontek
Elżbieta Pękala
Irma Podolak
Source :
Molecules, Vol 26, Iss 17, p 5224 (2021)
Publication Year :
2021
Publisher :
MDPI AG, 2021.

Abstract

The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC50 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.

Details

Language :
English
ISSN :
14203049
Volume :
26
Issue :
17
Database :
Directory of Open Access Journals
Journal :
Molecules
Publication Type :
Academic Journal
Accession number :
edsdoj.82676b34022049ad812d2e8fb5a4a672
Document Type :
article
Full Text :
https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26175224