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(+)-Usnic Acid as a Promising Candidate for a Safe and Stable Topical Photoprotective Agent
- Source :
- Molecules, Vol 26, Iss 17, p 5224 (2021)
- Publication Year :
- 2021
- Publisher :
- MDPI AG, 2021.
-
Abstract
- The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC50 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.
- Subjects :
- usnic acid
photoprotection
normal skin cells
octocrylene
Organic chemistry
QD241-441
Subjects
Details
- Language :
- English
- ISSN :
- 14203049
- Volume :
- 26
- Issue :
- 17
- Database :
- Directory of Open Access Journals
- Journal :
- Molecules
- Publication Type :
- Academic Journal
- Accession number :
- edsdoj.82676b34022049ad812d2e8fb5a4a672
- Document Type :
- article
- Full Text :
- https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26175224