Sodium/proton antiporters maintain intracellular pH and sodium levels. Detailed structures of antiporters with bound substrate ions are essential for understanding how they work. We have resolved the substrate ion in the dimeric, electroneutral sodium/proton antiporter PaNhaP from Pyrococcus abyssi at 3.2 Å, and have determined its structure in two different conformations at pH 8 and pH 4. The ion is coordinated by three acidic sidechains, a water molecule, a serine and a main-chain carbonyl in the unwound stretch of trans-membrane helix 5 at the deepest point of a negatively charged cytoplasmic funnel. A second narrow polar channel may facilitate proton uptake from the cytoplasm. Transport activity of PaNhaP is cooperative at pH 6 but not at pH 5. Cooperativity is due to pH-dependent allosteric coupling of protomers through two histidines at the dimer interface. Combined with comprehensive transport studies, the structures of PaNhaP offer unique new insights into the transport mechanism of sodium/proton antiporters. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.7554/eLife.03579.001, eLife digest Although the membrane that surrounds a cell is effective at separating the inside of a cell from the outside environment, certain molecules must enter or leave the cell for it to work correctly. One way this transport can occur is via proteins embedded in the cell membrane, called transporters. Transporters that are found in all organisms include the sodium/proton antiporters, which exchange protons from inside the cell with sodium ions from outside. However, exactly how the antiporter works was unknown. Previous work suggested that the structure and activity of the sodium/proton antiporter changes as the acidity of its environment changes, but the precise details of how this occurs were unclear. Wöhlert et al. have now crystallised a sodium/proton antiporter from a single-celled organism called Pyrococcus abyssi, a species of archaea that has been found living in hydrothermal vents deep in the Pacific Ocean. The structures the protein takes on in different functional states were then deduced from these crystals using a technique called X-ray crystallography. Using heavy thallium ions instead of sodium ions, which are less visible to X-rays, Wöhlert et al. found the site in the antiporter where the transported ion binds as it moves through the membrane. The antiporter has a funnel-shaped cavity that faces inwards (into the cell) in both acidic and alkaline conditions, although a second narrow channel that is open in alkaline conditions is blocked in acidic conditions by small protein rearrangements. Wöhlert et al. suggest that the differences between both structures explain how the antiporter tunes its ability to bind to the ions it transports. Wöhlert et al. further measured the activity of the antiporter and observed that the transport of ions was most rapid under slightly acidic conditions. In more acidic conditions, the sodium ion cannot bind to the antiporter, and in an alkaline environment, the sodium ions bind too strongly to the antiporter; in both cases, the ions cannot be transported. Comparing the findings presented here with separate work that uncovers the structure of the sodium/proton antiporter in a different species of archaea revealed very similar structures. Related transporters are also found in mammals, and defects in these transporters can lead to problems with the heart and kidneys. A better understanding of the sodium/proton antiporter structure could therefore help to develop new treatments for these conditions. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.7554/eLife.03579.002