1. Spatial deterministic wave forecasting for nonlinear sea-states
- Author
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Mariano Galvagno, Debbie Eeltink, and Raphael Stuhlmeier
- Subjects
Surface (mathematics) ,010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences ,Computational Mechanics ,FOS: Physical sciences ,01 natural sciences ,010305 fluids & plasmas ,Simple (abstract algebra) ,0103 physical sciences ,Wavenumber ,Physics::Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics ,0105 earth and related environmental sciences ,Fluid Flow and Transfer Processes ,Physics ,Mechanical Engineering ,Linear system ,Mathematical analysis ,Fluid Dynamics (physics.flu-dyn) ,Physics - Fluid Dynamics ,Condensed Matter Physics ,Surface gravity ,Wave forecasting ,Nonlinear system ,Physics - Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics ,Mechanics of Materials ,Algebraic form ,Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics (physics.ao-ph) - Abstract
We derive a simple algebraic form of the nonlinear wavenumber correction of unidirectional surface gravity waves in deep water, based on temporal measurements of the water surface and the spatial Zakharov equation. This allows us to formulate an improvement over linear deterministic wave forecasting with no additional computational cost. Our new formulation is used to forecast both synthetically generated as well as experimentally measured seas and shows marked improvements over the linear theory.
- Published
- 2021
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