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48th Conference of the International Federation of Knitting Technologists (IFKT) : 8-11 June 2016, Moenchengladbach, Germany / editors: Susanne Aumann (Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, Germany), Andrea Ehrmann (Bielefeld University of Applied Sciences, Germany), Marcus O. Weber (Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, Germany) 48th Conference of the International Federation of Knitting Technologists, IFKT, Moenchengladbach, Germany, 8 Jun 2016 - 11 Jun 2016; [Bristol] : IOP Publishing, IOP conference series / Materials science and engineering, 141,1, 012018, 8 Seiten (2016). doi:10.1088/1757-899X/141/1/012018, Published by IOP Publishing, [Bristol]

Smart manufacturing concepts merge modern production machinery and digital technologies in Cyber-Physical Systems (CPS). CPS consist of intelligent real-time-capable and networked sensors and actuators. The operation of such advanced machinery requires new and substantial skills in employees in various qualification phases. Successful implementation strategies take these varying skills of the workforce, which result from diverse cultural, educational, age-or gender-related socio-demographic variables, into account. Thus, the need for a differential-dynamic job design in textile production seems more relevant than ever, especially regarding the increasing number of older employees due to demographic changes in high-wage countries,. An important measure that is intertwined with the implementation of advanced manufacturing concepts in textile production is supporting employees in their development of skills concerning these new production methods. For this purpose, the development of Augmented reality-based assistance systems in connection with up-to-date textile machinery is regarded as a promising step towards the successful implementation of adequate, user-adaptable Cyber-Physical Systems.

100 nm thick 8‐AlQ 3 films deposited onto silicon wafers have been encapsulated by mean of low temperature atomic layer deposition of Al 2 O 3 (20 nm). Investigation of the film evolution under storage test as harsh as 65 °C/85% RH has been investigated up to ~ 1000 h and no severe degradation could be noticed. The results have been compared to raw AlQ 3 films which deteriorate far faster in the same conditions. For that purpose, fluorescence measurements and atomic force microscopy have been used to monitor the film evolution while transmission electron microscopy has been used to image the interface between AlQ 3 and Al 2 O 3 . This concept of bilayer AlQ 3 /Al 2 O 3 barrier films has finally been tested as an encapsulation barrier onto an organic light-emitting diode.

In the present study we investigated the evaluation of body shapes in patients with restrictive anorexia nervosa (AN) on both automatic and controlled levels. The first aim of the study was to examine whether an ultra-thin ideal or negative attitudes toward overweight might be the motivation behind pathological restriction. The second aim was to investigate the relationship between body figure evaluations, eating disorder symptoms and mood. A Modified Affective Priming Test was used to measure implicit evaluations of body silhouettes, while a Likert scale was used to assess explicit evaluations. The study involved 35 women with restrictive anorexia nervosa and 35 age- and education-level-matched controls with normal body weight. In contrast to the control group, the patients did not show a positive attitude toward the ultra-thin body shape on the automatic level. The AN group both on the automatic and the self-reported levels evaluated the overweight body as negative. Depression and anxiety did not influence body evaluation. Strong negative evaluation of overweight appears to be a key issue in AN rather than positive evaluation of ultra-thin role models.

In the first part of this paper a short description of the technical aspects of future markets of oil products is made. The second part is devoted to the services rendered by those markets. In the third part, the development of future markets of oil products is set forth.

A deux exceptions près, les rehausseurs de crédit ont connu entre octobre 2007 et février 2008 un véritable cataclysme. En moins de cinq mois, ces sociétés d’assurance, qui garantissaient en septembre 2007 près de 2 400 milliards de dollars d’actifs financiers, ont failli perdre leur raison d’être et ont vu s’envoler une partie de leur fonds de commerce. Les rehausseurs de crédit sont les dernières institutions financières touchées par la crise du « subprime ». Sauf à être recapitalisés, ils vont très probablement être à l’origine d’une nouvelle vague de dépréciation d’actifs dont l’impact financier pourrait être supérieur à celui qui a frappé les banques aux troisième et quatrième trimestres 2007., Lautier Delphine, Simon Yves. Les rehausseurs de crédit : anatomie d’une crise. In: Revue d'économie financière. Hors-série, 2008. Crise financière : analyses et propositions. pp. 305-314.

Resume En moyenne, la prevalence pour l’anorexie mentale est estimee a 0,5 % chez les jeunes filles et l’incidence la plus elevee a ete trouvee entre l’âge de dix a 19 ans. Chez les femmes, la prevalence pour l’anorexie mentale est estimee de zero a 1,5 %. La prevalence au cours de la vie pour l’anorexie mentale varie entre 0,6 et 4 %. Les limitations methodologiques concernent la variete des instruments pour diagnostiquer un trouble alimentaire et le manque de definition agreee pour les troubles alimentaires non specifies. Les modeles empiriques de la pathogenese des troubles alimentaires continuent a mettre l’accent sur le role de la pression sociale a la minceur, celle-ci etant transmise par les medias, l’environnement familial et les pairs. Les limitations methodologiques continuent a poser un defi dans l’interpretation de la modulation par les facteurs socioculturels des voies etiologiques de l’anorexie mentale. Une etiologie multifactorielle complexe est envisagee, impliquant l’interaction de la predisposition genetique et de certains facteurs de risque environnementaux specifiques, en particulier les facteurs sociaux.

In the first part of this research, a detailed experimental study was conducted for the partial oxidation of methane (POM) over La2O3. It was shown that the interactions between gas-phase and surface reactions should be considered and that the POM is a homogeneous−heterogeneous reaction. In this second part of the study, a detailed mechanism is proposed that involves 450 elementary homogeneous reaction steps and 33 heterogeneous reactions. From this mechanism, simulations were performed using Chemkin software packages. Computed values are consistent with experimental results over a large range of temperatures (650−850 °C), residence times (0.7−6 s), and catalyst amounts (0.45−3.6 g).

A complete kinetic study of the partial oxidation of methane has been performed in a “catalytic jet-stirred reactor”. The main goal of this study was to elucidate the interactions between gas-phase reactions and surface reactions and to propose a detailed heterogeneous−homogeneous mechanism. The catalyst used in this study was lanthanum oxide (La2O3). Various kinetic parameters were considered, including the temperature, the residence time, the contact time, and the amount of catalyst. The results revealed a complex behavior. In this first part of the study, the experimental results are given and discussed.

Multiple family therapy (MFT) is a therapeutic method that brings together several families affected by the same pathology. Although from an ideological and conceptual point of view, MFT is often linked to family therapy and group therapy, it is difficult to define it with precision, a weakness which may in turn hinder research on therapeutic effectiveness. This is most notable in the field of eating disorders (ED) where, in spite of MFT’s great popularity, research evidence remains limited. Within the context of a systematic review of the literature on MFT in the treatment of anorexia nervosa, the purpose of this article is to provide a theoretical and clinical framework for describing two MFT models, in an attempt to explore their common and distinct concepts, principles, techniques, and factors of change. The first program is a day treatment adaptation of the Maudsley family-based MFT approach, developed in Belgium at the Therapeutic Centre for Adolescents suffering from Eating Disorders: it focuses on the management of ED symptoms, using a strong cognitive behavioral orientation. The second is an integrated systemic MFT outpatient and inpatient program carried out on the ED unit of a pediatric hospital in Paris, France: it emphasizes intra- and inter-family relationships within a systemic framework. Our effort to describe and compare these two models constitutes a first step toward determining the relative value of different models of MFT. Indeed, each model presents specific characteristics that may make it best suited for specific ED populations and/or types of families.

This chapter starts with the history of denim fabric and talks about the fibres and yarns used in the manufacture of denim. Challenges and opportunities in engineering and preparing yarns for denim manufacture are explained. Furthermore, the technologies used for denim weaving and different weaving machines are detailed. Sections follow detailing the possibility of manufacturing denim efficiently using intelligent machines, and technological developments for manufacturing high quality denim. Finally, future trends in the weaving of denim are included.

The recycling of textiles is heavily based on the material type and treatment of the fibre material. Especially materials that do not allow a recovery of the raw material in virgin material quality limit the possibilities of textile recycling significantly. This circumstance leads to great amounts of accumulating worldwide textile waste that is not yet processed into new valuable products. In this section, the authors will show two strategies for the re-use and recycling of high valuable fibre materials like polyamide and carbon used in luxury applications. Afterwards, two case studies are presented to validate the presented concepts.

High-wage countries are on the brink of change, due to social and technological effects. In this paper, we will first give an outlook on both these effects concerning the German textile industry. Second, we will shortly describe the interdisciplinary build-up of our research group which influences the way how we address our research issues. Finally, we will outline two prototypical applications that serve as demonstrators for further user tests and subsequent developments.

This chapter gives an overview of three-dimensional (3D) textiles in sports and leisure clothing with respect to manufacturing processes and product requirements. The chapter first reviews key manufacturing methods of 3D textiles. It then discusses the requirements of 3D textiles for sports and recreational clothing. Finally applications of 3D textiles for sports and recreational clothing are presented.

Warp tension is a major parameter of the weaving process. The system analysis of a weaving machine leads to a simulation model for calculating the warp yarn tension. Validation of the simulation has demonstrated that the results correspond well with the reality. In a second step, an improved model of this simulation was used in combination with a genetic algorithm and a gradient based method to calculate optimised setting parameters for the weaving process. A cost function was defined taken into account a desired course of the warp tension. It is known, that a low and constant warp tension course is suitable for weaving. Using the genetic algorithm or the gradient based method leads to optimised weaving machine parameters. Applying the optimised setting parameters on a loom demonstrated that the quality of the produced fabrics can be improved. Further analysis of produced fabrics did not show an influence of optimised weaving machine parameters on the mechanical properties or productivity of the weaving process.

The reaction of the partial oxidation of methane was investigated over Ni/La2O3 catalysts prepared by impregnation. Two different reactors were used, a perfectly jet-stirred reactor and a fixed-bed reactor. The influences of nickel content, calcination temperature, reaction temperature, residence time, and contact time were investigated. Mechanistic information was derived from the comparison of the results obtained in both reactors. Characterization techniques such as X-ray diffraction, temperature-programmed oxidation, temperature-programmed reduction, and transmission electron microscopy were used to assess the state of the catalyst prior to and after the reaction.

A multilayer thin-film encapsulation process based on the use of Atomic Layer Deposition of Al2O3 for organic light-emitting diodes (OLED) has been presented at the last SID Display Week 2012 by LETI. It is based on the use of a generic stack of the kind Al2O3/organic layer/inorganic layer. When comes the time to evaluate the performances of this stack in severe climatic storage conditions, it turns out that the intrinsic stability of the organic decoupling layer becomes of outmost importance. This work details the behavior of the thin film barrier stack when exposed to 85 °C / 85 %RH climatic conditions.

A multilayer thin-film encapsulation process based on the use of Atomic Layer Deposition of Al2O3 for organic light-emitting diodes (OLED) has been developed at LETI. Its impact onto OLED characteristics and onto the lifetime degradation of devices has been studied. The degradation model has been compared to the usual model of glass-encapsulated OLED and the performances of the thin-film encapsulation has been evaluated upon storage in 65°C/85%RH conditions.

17th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2017 - Shaping the Future of Textiles : 29-31 May 2017, Corfu, Greece 17th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2017 : Textiles - Shaping the Future, AUTEX 2017, Corfu, Greece, 29 May 2017 - 31 May 2017; London [u.a.] : Institute of Physics, IOP conference series / Materials science and engineering, 254, 132003, 1-6 (2017). doi:10.1088/1757-899X/254/13/132003, Published by Institute of Physics, London [u.a.]

17th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2017 - Shaping the Future of Textiles : 29-31 May 2017, Corfu, Greece 17th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2017 : Textiles - Shaping the Future, AUTEX 2017, Corfu, Greece, 29 May 2017 - 31 May 2017; London [u.a.] : Institute of Physics, IOP conference series / Materials science and engineering, 254, 132001, 1-4 (2017). doi:10.1088/1757-899X/254/13/132001, Published by Institute of Physics, London [u.a.]

The crochet knitting machine is a warp knitting machine with a weft insertion system placed on a weft guide bar. On standard machines, the weft guide bar is made from aluminum and weighs about 570 g. The single-drive motors, which power the bar, account for 15–20% of the machines total power consumption. The aim of this research was to reduce power consumption by decreasing the mass of the weft guide bar. This was done by constructing the bar from carbon fiber reinforced plastics rather than aluminum, resulting in a mass saving of 260 g.

Several studies have been carried out using the Stroop test in eating disorders. Some of these studies have brought to light the existence of cognitive and attention deficits linked principally to weight and to food in anorexic and bulimic patients. The aim of the current study is to replicate and to clarify the existence of cognitive and attention deficits in anorexic patients using the Stroop test and a word recognition test. The recognition test is made up of 160 words; 80 words from the previous Stroop experiment mixed at random and matched from a semantic point of view to 80 distractions. The recognition word test is carried out 2 or 3 days after the Stroop test. Thirty-two subjects took part in the study: 16 female patients hospitalised for anorexia nervosa and 16 normal females as controls. Our results do not enable us to confirm the existence of specific cognitive deficits in anorexic patients.

The reduction of automotive emissions and the reformulation of gasoline composition require a better understanding of the combustion mechanism, in particular aiming at the determination of the influential reactions which are responsible for the onset of knock in spark ignition engines. We have studied the oxidation mechanism of two hydrocarbons of different research octane number: n-pentane (62) and cyclopentane (100). This work follows a previous study on the oxidation of n-heptane and isooctane. The experimental study was performed at 873 K in a jet-stirred flow reaction vessel. The reaction mechanisms of n-pentane and cyclopentane were analysed on a purely kinetic basis, derived from our experimental results, and were finally modelled by using a programme of simulation of reaction mechanisms. The different behaviour of these two hydrocarbons with respect to autoignition phenomena is mainly dependent on the relative concentration of resonance-stabilized radicals in the reaction medium. Keywords: oxidation reaction, n-pentane, cyclopentane, modelling, autoignition.

Using positron emission tomography and (18-F)-fluorodeoxyglucose, we studied cerebral glucose metabolism in 10 anorectic girls within their underweight state and after weight gain. Ten age- and sex-matched healthy volunteers were used as controls. Both groups were scanned during rest, eyes closed and with low ambient noise. In absolute values, the underweight anorectic patients, when compared to control subjects, showed a global ( p = 0.002) and regional ( p ≥ 0.001) hypometabolism of glucose which normalized with weight gain. In relative values, no global difference could be assessed between underweight anorectic patients and controls but a trend can, nevertheless, be observed toward parietal and superior frontal cortex hypometabolism associated with a relative hypermetabolism in the caudate nuclei and in the inferior frontal cortex. After weight gain, all regions normalized for absolute and relative values, although a trend appears toward relative parietal hypometabolism and inferior frontal cortex hypermetabolism in weight gain anorectic patients. Absolute brain glucose hypometabolism might result from neuroendocrinological or morphological aspects of anorexia nervosa or might be the expression of altered neurotransmission following deficient nutritional state. As some differences exists in relative values in underweight patients and tend to persist in weight gain states, this could support a potential abnormal cerebral functioning, a different reaction to starvation within several regions of the brain or different restoration rates according to the region.

The oxidation mechanisms of two alkanes that have quite different octane numbers: n-heptane (0) and isooctane (100), were investigated to obtain a better understanding of the chemical mechanism of autoignition phenomena and to improve the compatibility of the available fuels with the engines. The experimental study was performed at 923 K in a setup equipped with a jet-stirred reactor. The oxidation mechanisms of n-heptane and isooctane were simplified first by a purely kinetic analysis based on the product formation and then by using a software of simulation of reaction mechanisms. The very different behaviour of these two hydrocarbons was explained by the presence, in the products of isooctane oxidation, of alkenes, which would have an antiknock effect due to the formation of resonance-stabilized radicals. Key words: oxidation reaction, n-heptane, isooctane, autoignition, modelling.

The human knee is one of the most frequently injured joints. More than half of these injuries are related to a failure of the anterior cruciate ligament. Current treatments (allogeneic and autologous) bear several disadvantages which can be overcome through the use of synthetic structures. Within the scope of this paper the potential of tubular woven fabrics for the use as artificial ligaments has been evaluated. Twelve fabrics made of polyethylene terephthalate and polytetrafluoroethylene were produced using shuttle weaving technology. Mechanical and biological properties of the fabrics were assessed using static tensile testing and cytotoxicity assays. The results obtained within this study show that woven tubular fabrics can be potentially used as artificial ligament structures as they can provide the desired medical and mechanical properties for cruciate ligament replacements. Through the choice of material and weaving parameters the fabrics’ tensile properties can imitate the stress–strain characteristic of the human cruciate ligament. Further assessments in terms of cyclic loading behavior and abrasion resistance of the material are needed to evaluate the success in long term implantation.

International audience; A kinetic study of the partial oxidation of propane was performed in a jet stirred reactor. The main goal of this study was to establish a detailed homogeneous mechanism of this reaction and explore the capability to produce H2 and olefins. Various operating parameters are modified: temperature, residence time, and O2/C3H8 ratio. The mechanism was validated by comparing experimental and simulated results. A different behavior was observed depending on the temperature. At 600 °C, the mechanism contains both an oxidation and a pyrolytic path. The main products are H2, C2H4, CH4, CO, and O2. At 800 °C, the mechanism mostly contains a pyrolytic path. The main products are H2 and CO.

One of the central success factors for production in high-wage countries is the solution of the conflict that can be described with the term “planning efficiency”. Planning efficiency describes the relationship between the expenditure of planning and the profit generated by these expenditures. From the viewpoint of a successful business management, the challenge is to dynamically find the optimum between detailed planning and the immediate arrangement of the value stream. Planning-oriented approaches try to model the production system with as many of its characteristics and parameters as possible in order to avoid uncertainties and to allow rational decisions based on these models. The success of a planning-oriented approach depends on the transparency of business and production processes and on the quality of the applied models. Even though planning-oriented approaches are supported by a multitude of systems in industrial practice, an effective realisation is very intricate, so these models with their inherent structures tend to be matched to a current stationary condition of an enterprise. Every change within this enterprise, whether inherently structural or driven by altered input parameters, thus requires continuous updating and adjustment. This process is very cost-intensive and time-consuming; a direct transfer onto other enterprises or even other processes within the same enterprise is often impossible. This is also a result of the fact that planning usually occurs a priori and not in real-time. Therefore it is hard for completely planning-oriented systems to react to spontaneous deviations because the knowledge about those naturally only comes a posteriori.