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The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Dissolving microneedle arrays (dMNAs) are promising devices for intradermal vaccine delivery. The aim of this study was to develop a reproducible fabrication method for dMNAs based on an automated nano-droplet dispensing system that minimizes antigen waste. First, a polymer formulation was selected to dispense sufficiently small droplets (

The ester-linked ω-hydroxy acyl chain linked to a sphingosine base referred to as CER EOS is essential for the skin barrier lipid organization. While the majority of the skin lipids form a dense, crystalline structure, associated with low permeability, the unsaturated moiety of CER EOS, (either the linoleate or the oleate chain) exists in a liquid phase at the skin's physiological temperature. Thus, the relationship between CER EOS and barrier function is not entirely comprehended. We studied the permeability and lipid organization in skin lipid models, gradually increasing in CER EOS concentration, mixed with non-hydroxy sphingosine-based ceramide (CER NS) in an equimolar ratio of CERs, cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) mimicking the ratio in the native skin. A significant increase in the orthorhombic-hexagonal phase transition temperature was recorded when CER EOS concentration was raised to 70 mol% of the total CER content and higher, rendering a higher fraction of lipids in the orthorhombic phase at the expense of the hexagonal phase at physiological temperature. The model's permeability did not differ when CER EOS concentration ranged between 10 and 30% but increased significantly at 70% and higher. Using CER EOS with a perdeuterated oleate chain, it was shown that the fraction of lipids in a liquid phase increased with CER EOS concentration, while the neighboring CERs and FFAs remained in a crystalline state. The increased fraction of the liquid phase therefore, had a stronger effect on permeability than the increased fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic phase.

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are in vitro developed three‐dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) to a high extent. However, the epidermal lipid biosynthesis, barrier lipid composition, and organization are altered, leading to an elevated diffusion rate of therapeutic molecules. The altered lipid barrier formation in HSEs may be induced by standardized culture conditions, including a culture temperature of 37°C, which is dissimilar to skin surface temperature. Therefore, we aim to determine the influence of culture temperature during the generation of full thickness models (FTMs) on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation. For this purpose, FTMs were developed at conventional core temperature (37°C) or lower temperatures (35°C and 33°C) and evaluated over a time period of 4 weeks. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was analysed using advanced liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analysis. Our results show that SC layers accumulated at a similar rate irrespective of culture temperature. At reduced culture temperature, an increased epidermal thickness, a disorganization of the lower epidermal cell layers, a delayed early differentiation, and an enlargement of granular cells were detected. Interestingly, melanogenesis was reduced at lower temperature. The ceramide subclass profile, chain length distribution, and level of unsaturated ceramides were similar in FTMs generated at 37°C and 35°C but changed when generated at 33°C, reducing the resemblance to NHS. Herein, we report that culture temperature affects epidermal morphogenesis substantially and to a lesser extent the lipid barrier formation, highlighting the importance of optimized external parameters during reconstruction of skin.

Full thickness models (FTM) are 3D in vitro skin cultures that resemble the native human skin (NHS) to a great extent. However, the barrier function of these skin models is reduced. The skin barrier is located in the stratum corneum (SC) and consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. In this matrix, deviations in the composition of the FTMs lipid matrix may contribute to the impaired skin barrier when compared to NHS. One of the most abundant changes in lipid composition is an increase in monounsaturated lipids for which stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1) is responsible. To improve the SC lipid composition, we reduced SCD-1 activity during the generation of the FTMs. These FTMs were subsequently assessed on all major aspects, including epidermal homeostasis, lipid composition, lipid organization, and barrier functionality. We demonstrate that SCD-1 inhibition was successful and resulted in FTMs that better mimic the lipid composition of FTMs to NHS by a significant reduction in monounsaturated lipids. In conclusion, this study demonstrates an effective approach to normalize SC monounsaturated lipid concentration and may be a valuable tool in further optimizing the FTMs in future studies.

Full thickness models (FTMs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). However, their stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition differs from NHS causing a reduced skin barrier. The most pronounced differences in lipid composition are a reduction in lipid chain length and increased monounsaturated lipids. The liver-X-receptor (LXR) activates the monounsaturated lipid synthesis via stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1). Therefore, the aim was to improve the SC lipid synthesis of FTMs by LXR deactivation. This was achieved by supplementing culture medium with LXR antagonist GSK2033. LXR agonist T0901317 was added for comparison. Subsequently, epidermal morphogenesis, lipid composition, lipid organization and the barrier functionality of these FTMs were assessed. We demonstrate that LXR deactivation resulted in a lipid composition with increased overall chain lengths and reduced levels of monounsaturation, whereas LXR activation increased the amount of monounsaturated lipids and led to a reduction in the overall chain length. However, these changes did not affect the barrier functionality. In conclusion, LXR deactivation led to the development of FTMs with improved lipid properties, which mimic the lipid composition of NHS more closely. These novel findings may contribute to design interventions to normalize SC lipid composition of atopic dermatitis patients.

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), acts as the natural physical barrier. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a crystalline lipid matrix consisting of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Although phospholipids are frequently present in topical formulations, no detailed information is reported on the interactions between phospholipids and SC lipids. The aim of this study was to examine the interactions between a model phospholipid, dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) and synthetic ceramide-based mixtures (referred to as SC lipids). (Perdeuterated) DPPC was mixed with SC lipids and the lipid organization and mixing properties were examined. The studies revealed that DPPC participates in the same lattice as SC lipids thereby enhancing a hexagonal packing. Even at a high DPPC level, no phase separated pure DPPC was observed. When a DPPC containing formulation is applied to the skin surface it must partition into the SC lipid matrix prior to any mixing with the SC lipids. To mimic this, DPPC was applied on top of a SC lipid membrane. DPPC applied in a liquid crystalline state was able to mix with the SC lipids and participated in the same lattice as the SC lipids. However, when DPPC was applied in a rippled gel-state very limited partitioning of DPPC into the SC lipid matrix occurred. Thus, when applied to the skin, liquid crystalline DPPC will have very different interactions with SC lipids than DPPC in a (rippled-)gel phase.

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the upper layer of the skin, plays a critical role in the skin barrier. The matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). In human SC, these lipids form two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 6 and 13 nm. In the studies reported here, we investigated the effect of CHOL on lipid organization in each of these lamellar phases separately. For this purpose, we used lipid model mixtures. Our studies revealed that CHOL is imperative for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. At low CHOL levels, the formation of the lamellar phases was dramatically changed: a minimum 0.2 CHOL level in the CER/CHOL/FFA (1 : 0.2 : 1) mixture is required for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. Furthermore, CHOL enhances the formation of the highly dense orthorhombic lateral packing. The gradual increment of CHOL increases the fraction of lipids forming the very dense orthorhombic lateral packing. Therefore, these studies demonstrate that CHOL is an indispensable component of the SC lipid matrix and is of fundamental importance for appropriate dense lipid organization and thus important for the skin barrier function.

The skin protects the body from unwanted influences from the environment as well as excessive water loss. The barrier function of the skin is located in the stratum corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. This lipid matrix is crucial for the lipid skin barrier function. This paper provides an overview of the reported SC lipid composition and organization mainly focusing on healthy and diseased human skin. In addition, an overview is provided on the data describing the relation between lipid modulations and the impaired skin barrier function. Finally, the use of in vitro lipid models for a better understanding of the relation between the lipid composition, lipid organization and skin lipid barrier is discussed. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.

The intercellular lipid matrix of the skin’s stratum corneum serves to protect the body against desiccation and simultaneously limits the passage of drugs and other xenobiotics into the body. The matrix is made up of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol, which are organized as two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases. In studies reported here, we sought to use the technique of neutron diffraction, together with the device of isotopic (H/D) substitution, to determine the molecular architecture of the lamellar phase having a repeat distance of 53.9 ± 0.3 Å. Using hydrogenous samples as well as samples incorporating perdeuterated (C24:0) fatty acids and selectively deuterated cholesterol, the diffraction data obtained were used to construct neutron scattering length density profiles. By this means, the locations within the unit cell were determined for the cholesterol and fatty acids. The cholesterol headgroup was found to lie slightly inward from the unit cell boundary and the tail of the molecule located 6.2 ± 0.2 Å from the unit cell center. The fatty acid headgroups were located at the unit cell boundary with their acyl chains straddling the unit cell center. Based on these results, a molecular model is proposed for the arrangement of the lipids within the unit cell.

The extracellular lipid matrix in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is crucial for the skin barrier. The matrix is composed of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) and involves two lamellar phases: the short periodicity phase (SPP) and the long periodicity phase (LPP). To understand the skin barrier thoroughly, information about the molecular arrangement in the unit cell of these lamellar phases is paramount. Previously we examined the molecular arrangement in the unit cell of the SPP. Furthermore X-ray and neutron diffraction revealed a trilayer arrangement of lipids within the unit cell of the LPP [D. Groen et al., Biophysical Journal, 97, 2242-2249, 2009]. In the present study, we used neutron diffraction to obtain more details about the location of lipid (sub)classes in the unit cell of the LPP. The diffraction pattern revealed at least 8 diffraction orders of the LPP with a repeating unit of 129.6 +/- 0.5 angstrom. To determine the location of lipid sub(classes) in the unit cell, samples were examined with either only protiated lipids or selectively deuterated lipids. The diffraction data obtained by means of D2O/H2O contrast variation together with a gradual replacement of one particular CER, the acyl CER, by its partly deuterated counterpart, were used to construct the scattering length density profiles. The acyl chain of the acyl CER subclass is located at a position of similar to 21.4 +/- 0.2 angstrom from the unit cell centre of the LPP. The position and orientation of CHOL in the LPP unit cell were determined using tail and head-group deuterated forms of the sterol. CHOL is located with its head-group positioned similar to 26 +/- 0.2 angstrom from the unit cell centre. This allows the formation of a hydrogen bond with the ester group of the acyl CER located in close proximity. Based on the positions of the deuterated moieties of the acyl CER, CHOL and the previously determined location of two other lipid subclasses [E.H. Mojumdar et al., Biophysical Journal, 108, 2670-2679,2015], a molecular model is proposed for the unit cell of the LPP. In this model CHOL is located in the two outer layers of the LPP, while CER EOS is linking the two outer layers with the central lipid layers. Finally the two other lipid subclasses are predominantly located in the central layer of the LPP.

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three-dimensional culture models that are used as a model for native human skin. In this study the barrier properties of two novel HSEs, the fibroblast-derived matrix model (FDM) and the Leiden epidermal model (LEM), were compared with the full-thickness collagen model (FTM) and human skin. Since the main skin barrier is located in the lipid regions of the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), we investigated the epidermal morphology, expression of differentiation markers, SC permeability, lipid composition, and lipid organization of all HSEs and native human skin. Our results demonstrate that the barrier function of the FDM and LEM improved compared with that of the FTM, but all HSEs are more permeable than human skin. Further, the FDM and LEM have a relatively lower free fatty acid content than the FTM and human skin. Several similarities between the FDM, LEM and FTM were observed: (1) the morphology and the expression of the investigated differentiation markers were similar to those observed in native human skin, except for the observed expression of keratin 16 and premature expression of involucrin that were detected in all HSEs, (2) the lipids in the SC of all HSEs were arranged in lipid lamellae, similar to human skin, but show an increase in the number of lipid lamellae in the intercellular regions and (3) the SC lipids of all HSEs show a less densely packed lateral lipid organization compared with human SC. These findings indicate that the HSEs mimic many aspects of native human skin, but differ in their barrier properties.

The barrier function of the skin is provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. Ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) are present in SC and form highly ordered crystalline lipid lamellae. These lamellae are crucial for a proper skin barrier function. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to examine the lipid organization of mixtures prepared from synthetic CERs with CHOL and FFAs. The conformational ordering and lateral packing of these mixtures showed great similarities to the lipid organization in SC and lipid mixtures prepared with native CERs. Therefore, mixtures with synthetic CERs serve as an excellent tool for studying the effect of molecular architecture of CER subclasses on the lipid phase behavior. In SC the number of OH-groups in the head groups of CER subclasses varies. Furthermore, acylCERs with a linoleic acid chemically bound to a long acyl chain are also identified. The present study revealed that CER head group architecture affects the lateral packing and conformational ordering of the CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures. Furthermore, while the majority of the lipids form a crystalline packing, the linoleate moiety of the acylCERs participates in a “pseudo fluid” phase.

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid domains. The main lipid classes in stratum corneum are cholesterol, ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids forming two crystalline lamellar phases. However, only limited information is available on whether the various lipid classes participate in the same crystalline lattices or if separate domains are formed within the lipid lamellae. In this article infrared spectroscopic studies are reported of hydrated mixtures prepared from cholesterol, human CER, and free fatty acids. Evaluation of the methylene stretching vibrations revealed a conformational disordering starting at approximately 60 degrees C for all mixtures. Examination of the rotational ordering (scissoring and rocking vibrations) of mixtures prepared from equimolar cholesterol and CER with a variation in the level of free fatty acids showed that at lower free fatty acid content orthorhombic and hexagonal domains coexist in the lipid lamellae. Increasing the fatty acid level to an equimolar cholesterol/CER/fatty acid mixture reveals the dominant presence of an orthorhombic lattice, confirming x-ray diffraction studies. Replacing the protonated free fatty acid chains by their perdeuterated counterparts demonstrates that free fatty acids and CER participate in the same orthorhombic lattice up to a level of slightly less than 1:1:0.75 cholesterol/CER/free fatty acids molar ratio but that free fatty acids also form separate domains within the lipid lamellae at equimolar ratios at room temperature. However, no evidence for this has been observed at 32 degrees C. Extrapolating these findings to the situation in stratum corneum led us conclude that in stratum corneum, fatty acids and CER participate in the orthorhombic lattice at 32 degrees C, the skin temperature.

Dry skin symptoms such as scaling and itching are often treated with lipophilic moisturizers. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of lipophilic moisturizers on the stratum corneum (SC) ultra-structure and lipid organization. Lipophilic moisturizers were applied on the forearms of 4 healthy volunteers for 3 h. Subsequently, the application sites were tape stripped, and selected tape strips prepared for Freeze Fracture Electron Microscopy (FFEM), a method to visualize the SC intercellular lipid parallel to the skin surface. To investigate the effect of lipid moisturizers on the lipid lamellae, isolated SC was pretreated with the lipophilic moisturizers for 24 h prior to performing small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD) measurements. Additionally, the lipid organization of mixtures prepared with ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids and lipophilic moisturizer in a 2:1:1:1 molar ratio were studied using SAXD. The FFEM data (in vivo) as well as the SAXD data (in vitro) show that the lipophilic moisturizers do not change the lipid lamellar organization in the SC. Addition of 20% m/m lipophilic moisturizer to the ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acids mixture did not inhibit the formation of the long periodicity phase, the characteristic lamellar phase in the SC, even though there was clear evidence that two of the three moisturizers were at least partially incorporated in the long periodicity phase. Concluding, all findings suggest that the lipophilic moisturizers investigated in this study do not drastically change the lamellar organization of the SC intracellular lipid matrix, but that the moisturizers form separate domains in the SC, as was visualized by FFEM.

The lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), form the main barrier for diffusion of molecules across the skin. The main lipid classes in SC are cholesterol (CHOL), free fatty acids (FFA) and at least nine classes of ceramides (CER), referred to as CER1 to CER9. In the present study the phase behaviour of four synthetic CER, either single or mixed with CHOL or CHOL and FFA, has been studied using small and wide angle X-ray diffraction. The lipid mixtures showed complex phase behaviour with coexistence of several phases. The results further revealed that the presence of synthetic CER1 as well as a proper composition of the other CER in the mixture were crucial for the formation of a phase with a long periodicity, characteristic for SC lipid phase behaviour. Only a mixture containing synthetic CER1 and CER3, CHOL and FFA showed similar phase behaviour to that of SC.

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is the main barrier for diffusion of substances across the skin. The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes embedded in lipid lamellae. In previous studies two lamellar phases have been identified with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm of which the 13.4 nm phase (long periodicity phase = LPP) is considered to be very important for the skin banier function. The main lipid classes in stratumcorneum are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Until now 8 subclassesof ceramides are identified in human stratum corneum referred to as ceramide 1 to 8. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated human ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases. After addition of free fatty acids the lipids are organised in an orthorhombic packing with a small proportion of lipids in a liquid phase. Our most recent results show that the presence of ceramide 1 and the formation of a liquid phase are crucial elements for the formation of the LPP. These observations and the broad-narrowbroad sequence of lipid layers in the LPP led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains with on both sides a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as `the sandwich model'.

The lipid regions in the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum) form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. In this layer the main lipid classes are ceramides, cholesterol (CHOL), and FFA. Previous studies revealed a coexistence of two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 13 nm (referred to as long periodicity phase) and 6 nm (short periodicity phase). Additional studies showed that lipid mixtures prepared with isolated pig ceramides (pigCER) mimic lipid phase behavior in stratum corneum closely. Because the molecular structure of pigCER differs in some important aspects from that of human ceramides (HCER), in the present study the phase behavior of mixtures prepared with HCER has been examined. Phase behavior studies of mixtures based on HCER revealed that in CHOL:HCER mixtures the long periodicity phase dominates. In the absence of HCER1 the short periodicity phase is dominant. Addition of FFA promotes the formation of the short periodicity phase and induces a transition from a hexagonal sublattice to an orthorhombic sublattice. Furthermore, the presence of FFA promotes the formation of a liquid phase. Finally, cholesterol sulfate, a minor but important lipid in the stratum corneum, reduces the amount of cholesterol that phase separates in crystalline domains. From these observations it can be concluded that the phase behavior of mixtures prepared from HCER differs in some important aspects from that prepared from pigCER. The most prevalent differences are the following: i) the addition of FFA promotes the formation of the short periodicity phase; and ii) liquid lateral packing is obviously present in CHOL:HCER:FFA mixtures. These changes in phase behavior might be due to a larger amount of linoleic acid moiety in HCER mixtures compared with that in pigCER mixtures.—Bouwstra, J. A., G. S. Gooris, F. E. R. Dubbelaar, and M. Ponec. Phase behavior of lipid mixtures based on human ceramides: coexistence of crystalline and liquid phases.

The main problem with topical application of compounds to administer drugs to and regulate drug levels in a human body, is the barrier formed by the intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC). In a search for possibilities to overcome this barrier function, a good understanding of the organization and phase behavior of these lipids is required. SC lipid model studies especially provide a wealth of information with respect to the lipid organization and the importance of certain subclasses of lipids for the structure. Previously, we have shown that electron diffraction (ED) provides detailed information on the lateral lipid packing in both intact SC (G.S.K. Pilgram et al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 113 (1999) 403) and SC lipid models (G.S.K. Pilgram et al., J. Lipid Res. 39 (1998) 1669). In the present study, we used ED to examine the influence of two azones and sebaceous lipids on the lateral phase behavior of lipids isolated from human SC. We established that human SC lipids are arranged in an orthorhombic packing pattern. Upon mixing with the two enhancers the orthorhombic packing pattern was still observed; however, an additional fluid phase became more apparent. In mixtures with sebaceous lipids, the presence of the hexagonal lattice increased. These findings provide a basis for the mechanism by which these enhancers and sebaceous lipids interact with human SC lipids.

A mixture of ceramide 1 and ceramide 2 (CER(1 + 2)) was isolated from pig stratum corneum and mixed in various molar ratios with cholesterol (CHOL) or with CHOL and palmitic acid (PA). The mixtures were hydrated in a buffer solution of pH 5.0 and their phase behaviour was studied by wide- and small-angle X-ray diffraction. The small-angle diffraction curve of the CHOL/CER(1 + 2) mixture at a molar ratio of 0.4 revealed the presence of only one peak at a spacing of 6.7 nm. Increasing the amount of CHOL to a molar ratio of 0.6 was accompanied by a shift of this peak to a smaller spacing (5.7 nm) and the appearance of two weak peaks at 11.8 and 4.1 nm spacings. Increasing the CHOL content to an equimolar ratio resulted in the appearance of two lamellar phases with periodicities of 5.5 and 12 nm, respectively. In a CHOL/CER(1 + 2) mixture at a molar ratio of 2 the periodicities of the two phases were 5.6 and 12 nm, respectively. From these observations it was concluded that the CHOL/CER(1 + 2) mixtures exerted similar phase behaviour, as reported earlier for intact SC (Bouwstra et al. (1995) J. Lipid Res. 36, 496–504) and for mixtures (Bouwstra et al. (1996) J. Lipid Res., in press) prepared from CHOL and total ceramide fraction (CER) isolated from pig stratum corneum. However, in the CHOL/CER mixtures a lower relative amount of CHOL was required to acquire these lamellar phases, indicating that at low CHOL contents, CER 3, 4, 5 and 6 play a crucial role in the formation of the lamellar phases. Furthermore, the solubility of CHOL in the mixtures increased in the presence of CER 1, suggesting its important role for the barrier function of the skin. When palmitic acid (PA) was included, the phase behaviour of the CHOL/CER(1 + 2)/PA mixture was more complex. Next to two lamellar phases, an additional phase with a spacing of 3.77 nm was observed, never seen in intact stratum corneum. In the absence of CHOL, the wide-angle diffraction pattern of the CER(1 + 2) revealed one sharp reflection at 0.456 nm and two diffuse reflections at 0.430, 0.417 nm and 0.395 nm, indicating the presence of a crystalline sublattice. In an equimolar mixture of CHOL/CER(1 + 2) no sharp 0.456 nm reflection was observed indicating a more disordered packing. Furthermore, phase separation of CHOL occurred, this conclusion is based on the presence of reflections corresponding to polycrystalline cholesterol monohydrate. These findings indicate that the lateral packing of mixtures of CHOL/CER(1 + 2) is more complex than that of the CHOL/CER mixtures that reveals a hexagonal lateral packing.

The intercellular lipid regions in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin, form the major barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. The barrier function of in vitro reconstructed epidermis is still impaired. With respect to further optimization of the model, it is necessary to characterize its stratum corneum lipid structure. In this study, small and wide angle X-ray diffraction were used to characterize the lipid organization in stratum corneum isolated from 14-day-old reconstructed epidermis. The measurements were carried out at room temperature, and subsequently as a function of temperature between 25 degrees C and 109 degrees C, followed by measurements after cooling to room temperature. The results of the X-ray diffraction measurements revealed the following in reconstructed epidermis. 1) The lamellar ordering of stratum corneum lipids was much lower than that observed in native stratum corneum. 2) Crystalline anhydrous cholesterol was present. 3) Orthorhombic packing was present, but the corresponding reflections were very weak. The orthorhombic packing disappeared between 30 degrees C and 45 degrees C. 4) A hexagonal packing was present and disappeared between 60 degrees C and 75 degrees C. 5) Soft keratin is present. 6) A higher extent of lamellar ordering could be achieved by heating to 109 degrees C and cooling down to room temperature. Analysis of SC lipids revealed the presence of high amounts of triglycerides, the level of which could be decreased by lowering the glucose content. However, modulation of culture medium composition did not significantly affect lipid lamellae structures or hydrocarbon chain packing.

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) mimic human skin closely, but show differences in their stratum corneum (SC) lipid properties. The aim of this study was to determine whether isolation of primary cells, which is needed to generate HSEs, influence the SC lipid properties of HSEs. For this purpose, we expanded explants of intact full thickness human skin and isolated epidermal sheets in vitro. We investigated whether their outgrowths maintain barrier properties of human skin. The results reveal that the outgrowths and human skin have a similar morphology and expression of several differentiation markers, except for an increased expression of keratin 16 and involucrin. The outgrowths show a decreased SC fatty acid content compared with human skin. Additionally, SC lipids of the outgrowths have a predominantly hexagonal packing, whereas human skin has the dense orthorhombic packing. Furthermore, the outgrowths have lipid lamellae with a slightly reduced periodicity compared with human skin. These results demonstrate that the outgrowths do not maintain all properties observed in human skin, indicating that changes in properties of HSEs are not caused by isolation of primary cells, but by culture conditions.

The structure of mouse stratum corneum was investigated using small and wide angle X-ray scattering. Diffraction patterns were collected as a function of temperature and hydration. The lipid lamellar structure is characterized by a repeat distance of 13.4 nm. Occasionally a second lipid lamellar phase has been found with a repeat distance of 6.1 nm. Upon hydration neither swelling of the lamellae nor lateral swelling of the lipids was found. On the basis of these facts it was concluded that the size of the crystallographic unit cell of the lipid structure is insensitive to the water content. The 13.4 nm lamellar phase disappeared upon heating to 55 degrees C. At 45 degrees C the orthorhombic lateral packing disappeared. At this temperature only an hexagonal and liquid lateral packing of the lipids was observed. The hexagonal lateral packing transformed to a liquid one between 45 degrees C and 80 degrees C. Model calculations were carried out to obtain the electron density profile of the lamellar structure. In all models three electron lucent regions were fitted between which electron dense regions are located indicating that the 13.4 nm lamellar structure consist of three bilayers.

The lipid matrix present in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, plays a crucial role in the skin barrier function. The lipids are organized into two lamellar phases. To gain more insight into the molecular organization of one of these lamellar phases, we performed neutron diffraction studies. In the diffraction pattern, five diffraction orders were observed attributed to a lamellar phase with a repeat distance of 5.4 nm. Using contrast variation, the scattering length density profile could be calculated showing a typical bilayer arrangement. To obtain information on the arrangement of ceramides in the unit cell, a mixture that included a partly deuterated ceramide was also examined. The scattering length density profile of the 5.4-nm phase containing this deuterated ceramide demonstrated a symmetric arrangement of the ceramides with interdigitating acyl chains in the center of the unit cell.

The effect of a series of alkyl-azones (N-alkylazocycloheptane-2-one) on the structure of human stratum corneum has been studied by small angle X-ray scattering. Treatment with alkyl-azones having alkyl chains greater than six carbons in length resulted in the disordering of the lamellae in the stratum corneum. The results could be correlated with those obtained by thermal analysis. The remaining thermal transition after treatment with longer alkyl chain azones is probably due to the lipids associated with the proteins.

The characteristic 13-nm lamellar phase that is formed by lipids in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is very important for the barrier function of the skin. To gain more insight into the molecular organization of this lamellar phase, we performed small-angle x-ray diffraction (SAXD) using various lipid mixtures mimicking the lipid composition in SC. In the SAXD pattern of each mixture, at least seven diffraction orders were observed, attributed to the lamellar phase with a repeat distance ranging from 12.1 to 13.8 nm. Using the sampling method based on the variation in repeat distance, we selected phase angles for the first six diffraction orders. Using these phase angles for the lamellar phase, a high-resolution electron density distribution could be calculated. Subsequently, from SAXD patterns of isolated SC, the electron density distribution of the lamellar phase was also calculated and appeared to be very similar to that in the lipid mixtures. This demonstrates that the lipid mixtures serve as an excellent model for the lipid organization in SC, not only with respect to the repeat distance, but also in terms of the electron density distribution within the unit cell.

The structure of human stratum corneum was investigated with small-angle x-ray scattering (SAXS). At room temperature the scattering curve was characterized by a strong intensity at low scattering vector (Q

The use of small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) for characterization of lipid vesicle dispersions is described. The effect of curvature of the membrane, the presence of proteins in the core and on the surface of the membrane, variations in membrane thickness and distribution in the number of bilayers of the vesicles in the dispersion on the scattering curve is discussed. Concerning unilamellar vesicles, either the membrane curvature of vesicles smaller than 50 nm or variations in membrane thickness result in a disappearance of the first node in the scattering curve, even if the bilayer is symmetric with respect to the electron density distribution. In the case of dispersion in which unilamellar as well as multilamellar vesicles are present it is shown that a small fraction of multilamellar liposomes changes the scattering curve dramatically. Liposomes were prepared from various compositions of dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) and cholesterol hemisuccinate (CHEMS) by the film method. The electron density profile of the bilayers and distribution in the number of bilayers of the liposome dispersions were determined. The average number of bilayers increased as a function of the decrease in CHEMS content. Liposomes with higher CHEMS content than 10 mol % were unilamellar. It seems that increase in charge intercalated in the bilayers resulted in unilamellar vesicles.

Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 10 (2007) (4) 297–307 The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against unwanted influences from the environment and to protect the body from water loss. The barrier function of the skin is located in the superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of dead cells filled with keratin and water, the corneocytes, embedded in lipid regions. As the lipid regions are the only continuous structure in the stratum corneum, they are considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. The main lipid classes are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. In this paper the lipid organization in human stratum corneum is reviewed. In addition, the role the various lipid classes play in lipid organization is discussed using mixtures prepared from either native human ceramides or synthetic ceramides. Finally, a model is described which allows study of the relation between lipid composition, organization and barrier function. This model is referred to as the stratum corneum substitute. Keywords: ceramides, FTIR, lipid organization, stratum corneum, X-ray diffraction

The lipid lamellae in the stratum corneum (SC) play a key role in the barrier function of the skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). In pig SC at least six subclasses of ceramides (referred to as CER 1, 2–6) are present. Recently it was shown that in mixtures of isolated pig SC ceramides (referred to as CER(1–6)) and CHOL two lamellar phases are formed, which mimic SC lipid organisation very closely [J.A. Bouwstra et al., 1996, J. Lipid Res. 37, 999–1011] [1]. Since the CER composition in SC originating from different sources/donors often varies, information on the effect of variations in CER composition on the SC lipid organisation is important. The results of the present study with mixtures of CHOL including two different CER mixtures that lack CER 6 (CER(1–5) mixtures) revealed that at an equimolar molar ratio their lipid organisation was similar to that of the equimolar CHOL:CER(1–6) and CHOL:CER(1,2) mixtures, described previously. These observations suggest that at an equimolar CHOL:CER ratio the lipid organisation is remarkably insensitive toward a change in the CER composition. Similar observations have been made with equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures. The situation is different when the CHOL:CER molar ratio varies. While in the CHOL:CER(1–6) mixture the lamellar organisation hardly changed with varying molar ratio from 0.4 to 2, the lamellar organisation in the CHOL:CER(1–5) mixtures appeared to be more sensitive to a change in the relative CHOL content, especially concerning the changes in the periodicities of the lamellar phases. In summary, these findings clearly indicate that at an equimolar CHOL:CER molar ratio the lamellar organisation is least sensitive to a variation in CER composition, while at a reduced CHOL:CER molar ratio the CER composition plays a more prominent role in the lamellar phases. This observation may have an implication for the in vivo situation when both the CER composition and the CHOL:CER molar ratio change simultaneously.

The skin barrier function is provided by the stratum corneum (SC). The lipids in the SC are composed of three lipid classes: ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) which form two crystalline lamellar structures. In the present study, we investigate the effect of CER chain length distribution on the barrier properties of model lipid membranes mimicking the lipid composition and organization of SC. The membranes were prepared with either isolated pig CERs (PCERs) or synthetic CERs. While PCERs have a wide chain length distribution, the synthetic CERs are quite uniform in chain length. The barrier properties were examined by means of permeation studies using hydrocortisone as a model drug. Our studies revealed a reduced barrier in lipid membranes prepared with PCERs compared to synthetic CERs. Additional studies revealed that a wider chain length distribution of PCERs results in an enhanced hexagonal packing and increased conformational disordering of the lipid tails compared to synthetic CERs, while the lamellar phases did not change. This demonstrates that the chain length distribution affects the lipid barrier by reducing the lipid ordering and density within the lipid lamellae. In subsequent studies, the effect of increased levels of FFAs or CERs with a long acyl chain in the PCERs membranes was also studied. These changes in lipid composition enhanced the level of orthorhombic packing, reduced the conformational disordering and increased the barrier of the lipid membranes. In conclusion, the CER chain length distribution is an important key factor for maintaining a proper barrier.