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International audience; The SCCS concludes the following: 1.In light of the new data provided, does the SCCS consider Aluminium safe when used in lipsticks up to a maximum concentration of 14%? In the event that the estimated exposure to Aluminium from lipsticks of cosmetic products is found to be o concern, SCCS is asked to recommend safe concentration limits. In the light of the new data provided, the SCCS considers that the use of aluminium compounds is safe at the following equivalent aluminium concentrations up to: 6.25% in non-spray deodorants or non-spray antiperspirants10.60% in spray deodorants or spray antiperspirants2.65% in toothpaste and14% in lipstick2.Does the SCCS have any further scientific concerns regarding the use of Aluminium substances in cosmetic products taking into account the newly submitted information on aggregate exposure from cosmetics? The SCCS considers that the systemic exposure to aluminium via daily applications of cosmetic products does not add significantly to the systemic body burden of aluminium from other sources. Exposure to aluminium may also occur from sources other than cosmetic products, and a major source of aluminium in the population is the diet. This assessment has not taken into account the daily dietary intake of aluminium.

International audience; Although the need for non-animal alternatives has been well recognised for the human health hazard assessment of chemicals in general, it has become especially pressing for cosmetic ingredients due to the full implementation of testing and marketing bans on animal testing under the European Cosmetics Regulation. This means that for the safety assessment of cosmetics, the necessary safety data for both the ingredients and the finished product can be drawn from validated (or scientifically-valid), so-called "Replacement methods". In view of the challenges for safety assessment without recourse to animal test data, the Methodology Working Group of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety organised a workshop in February 2019 to discuss the key issues in regard to the use of animal-free alternative methods for the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. This perspective article summarises the outcomes of this workshop and reflects on the state-of-the-art and possible way forward for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients for which no experimental animal data exist. The use and optimisation of "New Approach Methodology" that could be useful tools in the context of the "Next Generation Risk Assessment" and the strategic framework for safety assessment of cosmetics were discussed in depth.

International audience; A 23-year-old female with a background of seasonal rhinoconjunctivitis and aquagenic urticaria was referred for investigation of recurrent facial eczema. She reported repeated flares of erythematous and edematous itchy lesions strictly localized on her face and more specifically on the eyelids after applying the anti-age eye cream DermAbsolu Soin regard jeunesse (Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène, Paris, France).

International audience; Research on emerging substances in drinking water presents major interest and the possibility of trace contamination has seen increasing concern from the scientific community and the public authorities. More particularly, residues of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) in bottled water are a very important issue due to societal concerns and potential media impact. In this context, it has become necessary to carry out reliable monitoring. This requires measurements of high quality with demonstration of accuracy and well-defined uncertainty. In this study, 20 pharmaceutical compounds were targeted for the first time in 167 bottled waters from France and other European countries. An isotope dilution-solid phase extraction-liquid chromatography mass spectrometry method, together with stringent quality control and quality assurance protocols, was developed and validated according to French mandatory standards. Recoveries between 87% and 112% were obtained with coefficient of variation below 20%. Operational limits of quantification (LOQ) were comprised between 5 and 30 ng L− 1. Expanded uncertainties (k = 2) ranged between 16% and 43% and were below 35% for half of the compounds. The survey showed only four positive quantifications, thereby highlighting the rarity of contamination.

International audience; A new bacterium, designated as strain TE9 was isolated from a microbial mat in French Polynesia and was studied for its ability to synthesize medium chain length poly-beta-hydroxyalkanoates (mcl PHAs) during cultivation on cosmetics co-products. The composition of PHAs was analysed by coupled gas chromatography mass spectroscopy (GC/MS), nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and Fourier Transform InfraRed (FTIR) spectroscopy. PHAs were composed of C6-C14 3-hydroxyacids monomers, with a predominance of 3-hydroxyoctanoate (3HO), 3-hydroxydecanoate (3HD) and 3-hydroxydodecanoate (3HDD). Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) experiments allowed the characterization of elastomeric materials with a melting point T(m) near 50 degrees C, enthalpy of fusion DeltaH(m) from 27 to 32 J/g, and glass transition temperature T(g) of -43 degrees C. Molecular weights ranged from 175,000 to 358,000 g/mol. On the basis of the phenotypical features and genotypic investigations, strain TE9 was assigned to the Pseudomonas genus and the name of Pseudomonas raguenesii sp. nov. is proposed.

International audience; BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The Reviscometer RVM600 that measures resonance running time (RRT) has been shown to be inversely related to the skin stiffness. However, very few publications describe the use of this instrument for testing the effect of cosmetic products. METHODS: Slight xerotic skin condition was induced by using an alkaline soap for 1 week. Skin has then been rehydrated with a lotion or further dehydrated and dried with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Skin condition at the different stages of the study was evaluated by visual assessment for dryness and redness and by non-invasive methods (Corneometer, Cutometer, Reviscometer, Evaporimeter and squamometry). RESULTS: All methods showed highly significant changes after the slight drying phase with the soap usage. They illustrated skin repair after lotion treatment and further skin impairment after SLS application. Nevertheless, the Reviscometer was able to better statistically discriminate between the treatments (water, lotion, SLS) than the Cutometer . Measurement of the RRT along the transversal axis of the forearms was the most sensitive for differentiating between normal and dry skin and between the treatments on the basis of skin mechanical properties. CONCLUSION: The Reviscometer RVM600 is a sensitive instrument able to detect slight skin surface effect of cosmetics. Combined with published literature on the interpretation of RRT measurements on polymeric gel or in different skin conditions (elderly skin and photoaged skin), the Reviscometer looks to be a recommendable instrument to measure slight changes in SC stiffness/suppleness induced by cosmetic products.

International audience; Concern is continuously raised about the safety of parabens which are present in most of the cosmetic preparations. In this investigation, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butyl paraben (MP, EP, PP, BP), in a commercial cosmetic lotion, were deposited on human skin fragments, collected after surgical operations. Permeated parabens were determined after their passage through human epidermis-dermis layers, fixed on Franz diffusion cells. Bovine serum albumin (3%) was employed as receptor fluid. Then, parabens were assessed by liquid chromatography. The objective of this research was to determine the permeation of these molecules through human epidermis-dermis layers, and their possible passage to body tissues and/or accumulation in skin layers. Two groups of experiments were performed. In the first experimental group (G1), unique doses of the cosmetic were deposited on skin fragments fixed on Franz cells (n = 6), at time 0 h, followed with different withdrawn times of the receptor fluid at 12, 24 and 36 h. G1 results demonstrated that parabens penetration was influenced by their lipophilicity: more lipophilic the parabens were (BP > PP > EP > MP), less they crossed the skin layers (BP < PP < EP < MP). The second experimental group (G2) was constituted of three equal deposits on each Franz cell (n = 6) at different hour times 0, 12 and 24 h followed with three withdrawn times of the receptor fluid at 12, 24 and 36 h. The G2 results indicated that investigated parabens had significant increasing permeations in skin layers. This situation provokes the accumulation of these molecules which were considered by some authors as the cause of skin toxicities and carcinogenicity.

International audience; BACKGROUND/AIMS: The purpose of this work was to develop a new sensor for objective in vivo measurement of the cutaneous temperature based on micro-electro-mechanical systems (MEMS), and to compare these performances with those of a classical thermocouple. Research on this new sensor was carried out to allow the quantification of the thermal properties of the made-up skin. METHODS: Sixteen female subjects divided into two different age groups (18-35 and >50 years old) were recruited for this study. Several zones of the face and forearms were made up at random with foundations containing or not a thermoregulator raw material. The quantity of foundation applied on the skin was standardized and measurements were carried out first before make-up, and then 10 s and 5 min after make-up. The new sensor and the thermocouple were used successively on each zone. The cutaneous temperature was expressed in degrees celsius. RESULTS/CONCLUSION: The two systems are similar in terms of repeatability and reproducibility, with some differences in sensibility. The data measured by the MEMS sensor appear lower than those measured by the thermocouple. After make-up, the MEMS sensor detects a progressive increase of the temperature in time whereas the thermocouple detects a decrease. We found the same evolution on the face but in a more attenuated way. These results tend to show that the devices do not measure the same phenomenon. The thermocouple appears more sensitive to the thermal response of the made-up surface whereas the MEMS sensor appears more sensitive to the heat transfers in the interface between the skin and make-up.